Author Topic: Question about sewing machine oil (Read 7169 times)

seanchan00 · « **on:** August 29, 2006, 02:40:32 PM »

Hi Anyone,

I can't find linseed oil here in Malaysia. There is only Singer sewing machine lubricating oils. Is this the same as boiled linseed oil? I need to weatherproof my new set of blades.

SeanChan.

Opera House · « **Reply #1 on:** August 29, 2006, 08:50:15 AM »

Regular and boiled linseed oil are basically the same. Boild is thicker and dries faster, not that it dries really fast. Should soak in just as well. I'm an antique engine buff and remember a steam engine manufacturer that used paint based on linseed oil. Between first and second coats they had to wait three months.

Flux · « **Reply #2 on:** August 29, 2006, 08:51:43 AM »

NO, Linseed oil would gum up a sewing machine pretty quick.

Use paint or varnish if you can't get linseed oil.

Flux

seanchan00 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 29, 2006, 09:06:41 AM »

Hi Flux,

I am finishing my 12 feet blades with TSR 8.5 using laminated pine wood. They are very light and I am thinking of bringing out the beauty of the wood grains as in Dan B's blades. I want to rub in linseed oil to weatherproof the wood but can't find it here. I was thinking maybe Singer sewing machine oil is the same as boiled linseed oil. Painting the blades will be a quick job but not as aesthetic.

SeanChan.

Flux · « **Reply #4 on:** August 29, 2006, 09:21:45 AM »

I strongly suspect Singer sewing machine oil is mineral based. Unless someone can give you definite advice that it will work I wouldn't risk it.

You should be able to find yacht varnishes that will give you what you want. The traditional varnishes are based on Linseed oil ( or they used to be).

Try any local woodworking places to see if they have any linseed oil.

Flux

whatsnext · « **Reply #5 on:** August 29, 2006, 11:28:37 AM »

Try to find Danish oil or Tung oil which are both very similar. Make sure you wear gloves if using Tung oil because some people find it mildly toxic.

John....

Flux · « **Reply #6 on:** August 29, 2006, 12:37:14 PM »

I suspect that Tung oil comes from your part of the world somewhere, it is one ingredient of traditional yacht varnishes but very expensive in Europe. You may be able to get some.

Flux

willib · « **Reply #7 on:** August 29, 2006, 01:50:51 PM »

I would definatly oil them , just because i think it looks cool to see the wood grain .

seanchan , got any photos of them?

willib · « **Reply #8 on:** August 29, 2006, 01:55:12 PM »

There has got to be a native oil to use

my god man your in the tropics !

coconut oil ?

wdyasq · « **Reply #9 on:** August 29, 2006, 02:24:01 PM »

There is no clear finish as good as paint. Please remember these are to be viewed from many meters in the air.

The reason spars on boats and ships were traditionally varnished is to be able to see if there was "rot" in the wood. Yacht types have taken that to absurdity. Boats in the tropics are varnished once a month.

Few people on this forum will have a depth of knowledge in the proper finishing of wood. Your answers have been Tung oil, from the seeds of a tree a native to central Asia, a possible choice but not ultravoilet resistant, and coconut oil, a less than worthless choice.

Sewing machine oil is indeed a mineral, or lubricatng, oil. It is not intended for finishing woodwork and indeed will keep paints from bonding to wood.

IMO, the "Dan's" are successful with linseed oil because they are in a dry climate. Unfinished wood will last for decades where they live.

Ron

willib · « **Reply #10 on:** August 29, 2006, 03:09:45 PM »

Thanks for bringing the discussion back to reality

it was almost fun for a while

seanchan00 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 29, 2006, 05:57:56 PM »

Thanks a lot guys. I didn't know tung oil comes from the tropics. If I can find the local name for tung oil I am sure it is available here. The easy road seems to be to varnish several layers and finish with outdoor laquer as I did with my first set of blades. I will most surely post pictures when done. This set is 12 inches wide at the root and 2.75 inches thick. I am able to conform more to the design using Hugh's blade calculator.

SeanChan.

ruddycrazy · « **Reply #12 on:** August 30, 2006, 03:18:57 AM »

Just paint the blades to seal them against moisture! As your in the tropics imagine if it poured down without any wind and your blades got soaked the all of a sudden a strong gale comes around and lasts for a while. Just how long do you think your genny would last with soaked blades which would be way out of balance.

DanB · « **Reply #13 on:** August 30, 2006, 07:27:18 AM »

Yes - I suspect you're right here. Linseed oil has it's drawbacks - it works well up here but requires at least yearly maintenance. Ive not had problems either with mildew - but I expect in moist environments that would be an issue. UV erosion... I have no idea how soon that will become an issue. If any of my machines last long enough where I see the blades degrading from sunlight then Ill probably change things here. I do like the clear finish though and in a dry environment the linseed oil seems to be a nice/cheap/easy and effective way to go.

Bruce S · « **Reply #14 on:** August 30, 2006, 12:47:49 PM »

seanchan;

Try finding Low-VOC paints and finishes. These are a bit more costly but do last longer and most of the newer ones have built-in UV protection.

Since this is going to be up where people can see and marvel at it, might as well make it look cool/pretty too.

I like the look of hand rubbed wood, but blades up where eveyone can see wood (pun intended) have me looking to paint it to look like the "sopwith camel" wings or something ;--) to give the neighbors to look in awe at.

Possibly even start a new fashion trend?

Cheers

Bruce S

Stonebrain · « **Reply #15 on:** August 30, 2006, 01:36:33 PM »

Depends on your wood too.

In your country I would make them in teak or some

other moistresistant tropical wood.

Will be ok without any protection or just some

appropiate oil.

cheers,

stonebrain

JW · « **Reply #16 on:** August 30, 2006, 05:17:11 PM »

Hi All,

Isnt boiled out linseed oil what Tesla used in all his liquid filled thansformers. Heard this stuff works great for cotton wound wire inulsation. One could most likely use any alkid resin to coat wood. Interesting thou, because everytime I heard about linseed oil I think of high voltage suppresion, Kinda makes me think about lightning protection for the blades. Does anybody use a lighting rod on there mill tower? Just curious.

JW

electrondady1 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 30, 2006, 07:29:59 PM »

i have 40 years personal experience finishing wood my father was a painter and my grandfather was too. (the smell of turpintine reminds me of my childhood)

the best and most beautiful finish for exterior wood is a siekens product.

first put on cetol 1 and finish with cetol 23

try to avoid sparvarnish it has a tendancy to be brittle and blister.

the reason thet started boiling linseed oil is the raw oil has a tendancy to start fires.

you could try clear epoxy.

the thing is, if you want exterior wood to look like furniture you must accept high maintenance.

electrondady1 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 30, 2006, 07:39:52 PM »

p.s. i guess,

you might want to talk to a local tradesman about what they use to clearcoat wood.

i would think that automotive clearcoat would hold up well.

Ungrounded Lightning Rod · « **Reply #19 on:** August 30, 2006, 09:58:06 PM »

In your country I would make them in teak or some other moistresistant tropical wood.

Even if it isn't as horribly expensive there as it is here, teak is not a good choice. It's very hard - which is good but makes it hard to machine. And when weathered it has a rough surface - which you DON'T want on an airfoil.

If you're going to paint your wood with something to keep it smooth, use a wood that is less expensive and easier to work.

Hans · « **Reply #20 on:** August 31, 2006, 04:39:12 AM »

Try to find a clear Melamin laquer. It should be available.

I have used with no problems and it keeps well and long (years), even in a tropical climate (Indonesia),

Sewing machine oil is definitely a non go. it is not a drying oil. If you really want to have an oil "coat"

try palm oil, you will have to renew it regularly and in short intervalls.

Hans

bj · « **Reply #21 on:** August 31, 2006, 08:35:09 AM »

Hi SEAN been messing with coatings for many years. The biggest

worry on wood, is moisture. It can attack the glue that you labouriously

applied to the laminates. It can also destroy the balance of the

blades, if it does not penetrate evenly. Oils are nice for the look.

but have a life. Hydro-carbon oils live longer, but can attack glues.

My advice, such as it is, is to use an automotive type clear coat.

It is designed to last for years, in lots of wind, and lots of UV.

But the wood needs to be dry, and it will take several coats.

A light sanding between coats, for bond. A pain to do, but the

wood will be pretty, and you will have a durable surface. It can also

be recoated years down the line with just a light sand

Hope this was of some help

bj

seanchan00 · « **Reply #22 on:** August 31, 2006, 06:02:00 PM »

Thanks, Ungrounded Lightning Rod,

I am using mixed pine wood strips recycled from packing crates that came to Malaysia with machinery deliveries. Each blade was made from 15 strips of pine wood 70mm wide by 20mm thick and 6 feet long.

Sean.

seanchan00 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 31, 2006, 06:08:35 PM »

Hi Jack996,

Will see if I can get clear coat auto paint. My carpenter friend is proposing auto paint which he assures me as yousaid will protect the lamination glue and soft wood.

sean.

bj · « **Reply #24 on:** September 01, 2006, 06:38:52 PM »

Sean--the best I have found is the two part epoxy type. Do mostly

truck boxes--restorations. But this coating in three layers is tough.

Applied on dry wood, it has the appearance of something like linseed

or, toung oil, but has much more envionmental toughness. Be careful

to wear something that will protect you from the fumes. This stuff

can make your Liver go into convulsions. Permanently. Please be be very

careful.

Sean---Good luck, and if I can help, contact me.

have fun

bj

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Author Topic: Question about sewing machine oil (Read 7169 times)