Author Topic: Harbor Fright 45 W panels/ replacing the fuse in controller! (Read 4367 times)

mixerman · « **on:** June 15, 2008, 07:50:24 PM »

Im new to Solar power, I just got a kit from Harbor freight, within 24 hours of putting it together I blew the fuse in the controller box, the instructions that came with the kit says get a shop to fix it. I think its 4 amps, it is a rather differt looking fuse than im used to seeing its incased in plastic and has wires soldered to it. I was wondering if anyone has replaced one of these? Is this a radio shack type replacement part? I dont see any danger in replacing this fuse but maybe im wrong!

mixerman

Moved to controls. Since it is about the controller.

jonas302 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 15, 2008, 02:08:55 PM »

I think the general thought is the panels are ok but the controller is no good

google search the board for harbor frieght controller there is a lot fo comments on them

If you cant find the fuse and have enough wire crimp on some 1/4inch quick connects and use an automotive blade fuse

ghurd · « **Reply #2 on:** June 15, 2008, 05:37:40 PM »

"I dont see any danger in replacing this fuse but maybe im wrong!"

Fuses blow for a reason. Even HF fuses.

The blown fuse is the symptom of a larger problem. That is what fuses do, and why they are there.

Get a decent controller before you need a replacement controller, and replacement batteries.

G-

mixerman · « **Reply #3 on:** June 15, 2008, 05:38:07 PM »

Upon looking closer there is a removable cover to get to the fuse

mixerman · « **Reply #4 on:** June 15, 2008, 05:47:34 PM »

The front of the controller has a cigar lighter outlet on it, I thought that was for a small inverter, I pluged a 60w inverter into it and then a small tv. The instructions a terrable about what does what. There is also a USB connectionon the front with no explanation of what its for. I have replaced the fuse and now all is well.

mixerman

ghurd · « **Reply #5 on:** June 15, 2008, 06:04:40 PM »

Fuses blow for a reason.

A 4A fuse is about 50W. The surges blew it.

It does not change "Get a decent controller before you need a replacement controller, and replacement batteries."

nothing to lose · « **Reply #6 on:** June 15, 2008, 06:24:16 PM »

I don't have that controller, I have the old type, but I think the USB port is just for charging stuff like Ipod etc.. or stuff that runs on low power that a computer would normally supply through the USB port.

As for changing fuses on devices. If it's an odd type fuse but for standard power like 12VDC 4amps, it's easy to just solder a piece of wire to the ends of a fuse. Rather it's a round glass fuse or the blade type. Make sure you have the correct type fuse though for the type of power needed. 4 amps at 12VDC is the same rather round or bladed type long or short type. Several times I could not get the right size fuse in the same type to fit a socket, so I just make one from another type of the same rating.

Yes, most times when something says there is a 4amp fuse in the battery line like the HF controllers that means 4 amps total to everything which is about 48watts.

Remember also stuff like a TV has a surge when first turned on so most actually need more power than claimed. It may say something like 40watts (durring use) but could be a 60-70watt surge when it first powers on.

I had a small inverter (like 400watt) that would run large TV, VCR, small fan, and a light all at once. I did have to turn the TV on first so the inverter could handle the power surge then I could turn on everything else.

valterra · « **Reply #7 on:** June 15, 2008, 10:52:54 PM »

I don't use mine as a controller because i use GHurd's dump load circuit. However the box DOES make a handy dc-dc converter. The usb is 5vdc, standard usb voltage. I've charged my phone on it.

Alas mine is dead too. Panels have never been plugged into it... used as output only. The rear fuse looks intact. (sigh) too bad.

wooferhound · « **Reply #8 on:** June 16, 2008, 06:20:42 AM »

Liston to the others when they are telling you to replace your Harbor Freight Controller before you cook your batteries. I have that HF system, and my controller lasted lass than 5 minutes after I connected the panels to it. If you really want to know why we are so strong on this point, then read through some of these stories about that controller...

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2007/10/24/31845/824

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2007/10/4/153940/647

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2006/9/2/44740/22406

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2006/8/17/132019/791

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2006/8/5/212433/2619

The HF system that I have has taken on a new life as permanently installed Power for 12 volt DC devices in my computer area, No Inverter.

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2008/3/4/6303/63451

Looks like the price went up $20 more on that HF Kit . . .

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90599

mixerman · « **Reply #9 on:** June 16, 2008, 07:01:59 PM »

Thanks guys for the advice. I still have a lot of information to soak up. I will have to keep

a eye on the regulater (controller) seems to be working OK . For now Im just going to

charge some car batterys and use the small lights that came with and do some reading

about where and how to mount somewhere . Maybe get a different battery. That will be a

different post.

mixerman

St. Louis

dnix71 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 16, 2008, 07:37:38 PM »

I have the newer style controller and have had no failures in two months of daily use.

I intentionally added more panels than it calls for and still no problems. The older controller (with the id10t lights instead of led display) I didn't like.

The front taps are not for heavy duty use. My inverter is connected to the battery, not the round plug tap. The usb port does not work properly. It does not put out the proper current. If I try to charge a small usb mp3 player/video camera, the power light on the camera cycles off and on indefinitely.

The Harbor Freight kit was intended as a shed light. As long as you use the charge controller with the lights it came with there should be no problem. Any heavier draw should be tapped from a battery bus.

wooferhound · « **Reply #11 on:** June 17, 2008, 06:20:49 AM »

Hey Mixerman

Do you do sound systems or recording

I'm a soundman myself

http://wooferhound.com

mixerman · « **Reply #12 on:** June 18, 2008, 06:47:39 AM »

No,but that looks like a neat job to have! The 45W panals ore on sale here in St. Louis for 180 plus tax, Im still looking for a coupon to show up in the next 30 days.

mixerman · « **Reply #13 on:** June 18, 2008, 07:01:10 AM »

I learned the hard way about what goes in that cigar lighter socket, I blew the fuse when I pluged the inverter in it. I went down to parts America and got a female cigar lighter socket that was allready wired and fused and had color coded clamps on it to attach to the battery, I think it was about 4 bucks.

Im trying to figure out what im going to do with the system, I might be expecting to much.

You say that you conneced additional power to the regulator! Is that ok to do that?

dnix71 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 18, 2008, 05:08:28 PM »

Look at the wires going in and out of the controller. They aren't much heavier than your phone line. If you want to run anything but the lights that came with the kit, or maybe a AA/AAA/cell phone charger, go directly back to the batteries (with an appropriate in-line fuse).

Some charge controllers like Xantrex are made with high power bus taps. The HF kit is just there to charge a battery and run a 5 watt compact flourescent light.

brkwind2 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 19, 2008, 03:05:17 PM »

They are $250 in the Springfield store. Too bad gas is so high. At $180 they would pay back a lot sooner.

ghurd · « **Reply #16 on:** June 19, 2008, 03:17:43 PM »

They are On Sale about 1/3rd of the time for $180, at the retail stores, everywhere.

Bruce S · « **Reply #17 on:** June 19, 2008, 11:17:19 PM »

All;

I have one of the newer kits as well as older unit. I have not had any problems with the newer PDU ( I call it a power distribution Unit, since it really isn't a charge controller).

I have a 24V mower and have had no problmes pluggin it into a 150W inverter and charging it.

The voltage taps are certaily not what they should be , but useable.

Cheers

Bruce S

mixerman · « **Reply #18 on:** June 21, 2008, 08:44:39 PM »

What is a dump load circut?

HF instructions say not to leave a battery charging unattended , Thats a PIA! Who wants to babysit a battery while its charging.

Instruction also say to disconnect panel wires from regulater, with battery disconected , is anyone doing this and if so Why?

Bruce S · « **Reply #19 on:** June 24, 2008, 08:35:48 AM »

mixerman;

You are so correct!! it can be a PIA :-)

I do not do this. I use their "controller" as a PDU ( power distrb. unit)

With the first set of 3 HF panels, I contacted someone I trust, and got a small regulator from Ghurd.

I followed the directions by 1st connecting the panels, then sent the output to my test battery bank of 12V 18Ahr SLAs then off the the PDU. This way I don't have to baby the setup.

Once I was confident that this setup was working, I then began looking for a way to make use of any extra power from the panels once the banks were charged.

Since I now use non traditional batteries ( NiCds instead of SLA or flooded types) I needed a way to better control the charging & dump loads.

Enter Ghurd's dump controller: With these little gems, I can set the controller to dump at the correct charge level of my NiCds instead of the normal settings for SLA & such. I have in fact several attached so I can control different bank sizes and they all work , like the ole, "set it and forget it" saying.

Currently , I can recharge my battery powered everything from these banks, either by direct dc-dc or by use of inverters ranging from cigar sized 100 watter to 1200watter. I have a 3k unit , but not ready for it just yet.

The HF kit was put together IMHO to get people to jump into this field as a ready-made starter kit.

Which it does do fairly well, but has it's limits.

It's kinda like the pusher giving away the first "hit" free...

Hope this helps

Bruce S

Bruce S · « **Reply #20 on:** June 24, 2008, 08:42:03 AM »

mixerman;

Sorry didn't answer the direct question.

A dump load controller is a circuit, that redirects the incoming power from your panels to something other than the batteries. This way once the batts are fully charged, they don't sit and boil away.

Have a look at Wofferhounds posts about his, I believe damonHD and and several others are using them and have posted about them too.

Both Ghurd and Amanda have posted their circuits and both I beleive are every bit as good as anything on the retail market..

Plus they have the added benifit of being posted for your own abilites to build with what you may have on hand or nominal costs for their parts and shipping.

Cheers

Bruce S

mixerman · « **Reply #21 on:** June 24, 2008, 02:11:45 PM »

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Then the "Dump load circut" would remove any problems that a HF controler Might have or develop.

Ill check again doing a search for Dump load circut.

I have done much other than charge some car batterys up. I know the system is small but have to start somewhere. Still doing reading of the posts to get better idea of how to move forward.

Thanks for the input.

mixerman

Bruce S · « **Reply #22 on:** June 24, 2008, 02:56:08 PM »

To that I'll say yes & no.

Google search the board about HF controllers, and you're sure to come up with a "few" trouble spots :-)

Can't say for sure if the HF "controller will ever agin give you trouble , but the controller will sure ease it.

The dump load controller will help keep the batteries from getting boiled once you have the unit setup, but you'll also need something for the dumped power to go to. Woof is using old heater coils from a toaster (I THINK).

On one I have a 12Vdc 120mmX120mm computer fan, not pretty but it works.

About the batteries: You'll surely get a few posts about car batteries, so I'll chime in here about them .

1st, I'm sure you know these aren't the best items to use for a solar based system. BUT, in the way you're going about this , they are perfect!!

Hopefully no one close is missing their battery from their car :-) and these are free.

This gets you the hands-on you need and these will always be good for dump loads too. This is where many started, Mother-Earth-News used them as well.

If you have a truck load of car batteries and want to use them <COOL>.

As you get more and more atuned about how all this works and how far you want to go with it; then move up to the deep cycle batteries.

This HF panel kit can help in other ways too. With the batteries charged you can use the set to charge almost anything you have, power tools, lawn mowers, mobile phones, etc...

Also have fun with it

Cheers!

Bruce S

Bruce S · « **Reply #23 on:** June 24, 2008, 03:15:59 PM »

mixerman;

Just was going over this line of posts and noticed, you have ST.Louis. What part?

North county, South County, City?

hopefull no where near the levies.

Cheers

Bruce S

mixerman · « **Reply #24 on:** June 24, 2008, 09:52:34 PM »

I live in Fenton within a mile of I44, we dodged this flood so far, it was a different story a few month ago. Todays latest development is that hy 370 in St. Charles is closed because the flood has driven herds of deer onto the highway it might reopen tommoro morning.We just cant take any additional water in the rivers or it will be 93 all over again.

Denny

mixerman

mixerman · « **Reply #25 on:** June 24, 2008, 10:05:56 PM »

Tonight the deal got just a bit better , I was at a friends house today and he had a coupon for 10% off (Grand opening of a new store in St. Louis). I went back to the HF store and showed them the date when I bought the solar panel kit and thay gave me the discount, my kit wound up costing 161.00. I like it when things go my way.

Will be in touch with you about the Dump load circut kit.

Thanks for the input.

Denny

mixerman

(unknown) · « **Reply #26 on:** June 28, 2008, 10:36:36 PM »

If this isn't the right place to reply to Mixerman, don't beat me up, since this is my very first post. I just found otherpower. But, I have been working an HF 45 watt kit to death since November, 2007 and I feel I can contribute here.

I can see from the earlier posts that you probably got your basic question answered. That is: the 4 amp fuse is only there to protect the circuitry within the controller from damage. And it only protects the front panel jacks.

If you want to draw a lot of power, get it right from the battery.

If you want to see what I think about this system, goto www.spaco.org and click on the "solar energy" link. It's all there except for my "Final Report", which I just posted yesterday to a.c.photovoltaic.

The thing I want to add here is that I think the Harbor freight controller (the latest one takes ATC-4 fuses, by the way) is a pretty darn good machine and I'd enjoy arm wrestling with anybody on that issue.

On the other hand, I can't get any more than 30 watts out of the panels, no matter what I do.

Oh, yeh---- NEVER move any wires around on the controller while the panels are generating voltage!!!!!!!!

If you want to see the "Final Report", email me direct or ask me to post it here.

Lastly, I did notice that you wrote "Harbor Fright" in your subject. I just want to say here that they have been great about replacing the failed controllers, both at my local store and later through the internet operation.

I am:

Pete Stanaitis (on his 4th controller, which has the battery voltmeter on the front, and works just fine),

spaco@baldwin-telecom.net

ghurd · « **Reply #27 on:** June 29, 2008, 07:48:27 AM »

Let me see if I understand what you are saying...

You have had a 45W HF kit for 7 months.

You like the controller, calling it "a pretty darn good machine", even though you replaced it 3 times? 4th controller means 3 bad ones in 7 months.

An average service life of 2 months makes "a pretty darn good machine".

We have different ideas about what is "good".

G-

mixerman · « **Reply #28 on:** June 30, 2008, 07:01:26 AM »

lets see that final report, thats what this place is all about.

Denny

mixerman

TomW · « **Reply #29 on:** June 30, 2008, 12:01:12 PM »

Denny;

I "think" he means "usenet" Alt.Comp.Photovoltaics but, yet again, assuming people know the abbreviations has led to confusion.

You couldn't pay me to wade thru the mess Usenet has become.

Tom

ncblue · « **Reply #30 on:** November 26, 2008, 02:39:28 PM »

i've seen these units, kinda thought about grabbing one as sson as they go on sale here. but after reading all the posts on the trouble people have had i think i'll still buy one and make one signifigant change- toss everything except the panels and get a better controller for it. theres plenty of controller projects on here.

as for HF's controller, think i'll dis-assemble it for spare parts.

News:

Author Topic: Harbor Fright 45 W panels/ replacing the fuse in controller! (Read 4367 times)

(unknown)