12V Connection management

[quidnon]

Hi All!

Using a 12V system  - what are some thoughts on how to best manage power distribution for multiple items (i.e. lamps, fans, etc...)/  Naturally, I'd fuse all appropriately, but is there a good, inexpensive way to have a distribution box so that you don't hook up multiple connections directly to the battery?

Anybody using this nifty box??

http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=1847&CtgID=1841

comments appreciated!

Thanks

Wayne

[AbyssUnderground]

Thats a pretty neat panel you posted a link to there.

You can use a standard breaker panel. Angus (fungus) uses one and it works great. I am thinking of getting one of my own but at the moment I only run one light so I simply use a ciggy socket and plug to turn it on and off.

[Muiller]

How about a car fuse box.

It should work the same as that board and cost a lot less.

[ghurd]

Not sure how big the system is.

I like something like this for small systems...

As shown,

The PV goes directly to the controller.

The controller goes INTO one of the fused outputs.

The other fused outputs go to devices. (fans, lamps, etc. And that lighter plug)

There is only one wire pair to the battery. Most systems would be better with battery lugs instead of jumper cable clamps.

Each device or circuit has its own fuse, in the positive wire.

All the devices share a negative wire.

That fuse block, or 'fused distribution block', came from the auto parts store (Advanced Auto).  The one shown has 6 circuits, one for the PV input, one for the lighter plug, and 4 more.  I think there is one available (not here) with 8 fuses.

Fancy stereo retailers should have something similar at a higher price, because it's probably gold plated (really!).  They commonly go from 2 to 12 fuses, and use uncommon or expensive fuses. (Pep-Boys has a few gold-plated choices accepting only expensive fuses)

They will need a "terminal block" and "matching jumpers" for the ground connections.  Or a similar provision.

Some include the ground connections on the fuse-holder do-hickey.  Easier and recommended if it's available.  Worth the extra money.

This Example shows the fuse holder and the common ground/negative area,

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/purchase/products-found.jsp?_requestid=53214

Solder all the crimp connectors to their wires.

Use anti-corrosion grease on the connector to fuse connection, and the fuse to block connection. (most of my stuff is installed in humid barns, so I know it helps)

G-

[wooferhound]

I have a small system and my loads total less than 5 amps. The system is fused at the battery so I don't fuse my individual loads, but it is a good idea. I am using the power at my computer desk to power 12vdc items. A DSL Modem, some 12vdc CFL lights, A personal Fan, and a 12vdc TV/radio.





Under my computer desk I have this switch panel which is also the distribution point. The 4 switches control the 4 items I'm using listed above. The Output is the terminal strip that you can see in the background. The red pushbutton switch is connected to a meter so I can check the voltage at any time. The yellow LED lights up if any of the 4 power switches is on indicating some battery drain. The 2 green LEDs are connected to one of Ghurd's Dump Controllers and give me an indication  of when the batteries are charged and Dumping.

Total cost about $20 but I already had most of the items.

[fungus]

As andy said; I used a normal breaker box; it has a 20A breaker for my main loads and a 6A for my lights; the dumpload controller is connected separately with its own fuse.




Inside:

[quidnon]

Thanks for all the suggestions - gave me something to consider, I'm always interested in saving same $$ ( = NEED MORE PANELS) :{)

Ghurd - thanks for the link, Can you send a pic, for some reason it goes directly to Cabella's main page.  Also - whats the best anticorrosive  "grease" to use as you mentioned!

Thanks from the newbie!!

Best

Wayne

[ghurd]

Cabella's webmaster is smarter than me.

Go to their homepage and search for item #IH-011915.

The grease.  I use several brands.

Ox-Guard comes to mind, because it's cheap and common. ("GB" section of Lowe's / Home Depot) Comes in a mini-tooth paste tube.

Tell "the helper dude" you want to connect AL directly to CU. He'll show you the right goop.

Car-parts stores (maybe only semi-truck dealers or stereo retailers) have some clear silicon based gunk, but I'm not sure it's worth the cost.

To Fungus-  DANG!

G-

[ghurd]

And because someone seems to be paying attention,

The "OX-Guard" stuff comes in at least 2 sizes. A little bigger than your thumb, and about like a half-pound tube.  Might be a 2 pound tub too.  The small tube is far more than enough.

I put it on the screw threads & heads, jumpers, fuses, both sides of all contact surfaces, smear a good coat on the soldered places (both ends of the blue plastic), and coat anything that looks like it could be exposed copper.

Solder everything. Battery clamps, clips, crimp connections, etc.

Then chip/scrape off the solder residue and coat it with 'goo'.

Then assemble.  Then 2 days later, tighten the screws again.

To Woof- Maybe post a link in the the HF post to what your HF Controller now looks like, inside.

To Fungus, again- DANG!

[wooferhound]

"To Woof- Maybe post a link in the the HF post to what your HF Controller now looks like, inside."

Well, I had never posted that picture but I will.

I built Ghurds Dump Load Controller, here is the picture . . .

When i got the Harbor Freight Solar kit the controller burned up in 30 minutes after I had connected it up. So I put one of Ghurds Dump Load controllers on it to maintain the correct voltage. It does look like I built it into the burned out case of the HF controller, but it's actually in a box that was a High Speed 1200 baud modem from back in the Eighties. The dump resister equals 2.33 ohms, it is made from 3 strings of resisters in parallel, the strings are seven 1 ohm 5 watt resisters in series.

[fungus]

"DANG" as in good or? ..

breaker boxes are pretty cheap off ebay and the one I got has plenty of 'overhead' space where a controlller etc could be put.

[quidnon]

Thanks - that's a nice box! Looks like the smae concept as th link I posted but much more cost effective.  

As for the anti-corrosive - use this as a general material (on the battery posts etc...)?  I've seen some say to smother with vaseline as an alternative, any pros/cons here?

Thanks for the help!

[dbcollen]

square D QO breakers are UL listed and rated for 50Vdc  (not 48 volt system) if you want to remain code compliant.

Dustin

Mad River Wind and Hydro.