Author Topic: Doc Wattson hookup (Read 4779 times)

Tink · « **on:** January 19, 2011, 12:36:29 PM »

I just purhased a Doc Wattson meter and need to verify just how to hook it up. I've done all the pelimary research by searching this site for info and going through the RC Electronics web site too. OK so do I hook the black 'source' wire to the negative side of the rectifier and the red 'source' wire to the positive side of the rectifier then the black 'load' wire to the negative side of the battery? I'm sorry if this seams like a stupid question but I just want to be sure. Any advice will be greatly appriciated. I just want to use this meter to measure the output (amps, amp hours, watts etc.) of my 10' wind turbine.
Thanks,
Tink

TomW · « **Reply #1 on:** January 19, 2011, 12:51:30 PM »

Mine are hooked up thus:

Red Source to battery Positive [powers it]
Black Source to Rectify / Bridge Negative

Red Load No Connection [wire nut screwed on so it cant short to anything]
Black Load to Battery Negative

Just checked to be sure.

There are more than one way to do it but that is how I do mine.

Good Luck with it.
Tom

Tink · « **Reply #2 on:** January 19, 2011, 12:59:33 PM »

Tom,
Thanks for the fast reply. Much appriciated!
Tink

Tink · « **Reply #3 on:** February 08, 2011, 07:52:13 AM »

Tom or anyone,
After hooking up the Doc Watson meter I notice I'm only getting 10% of the readings for all but volts which seam to be spot on. Is this normal?
Thanks,
Tink

TomW · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2011, 08:16:00 AM »

Quote from: Tink on February 08, 2011, 07:52:13 AM

Tom or anyone,
After hooking up the Doc Watson meter I notice I'm only getting 10% of the readings for all but volts which seam to be spot on. Is this normal?
Thanks,
Tink

Mine both seem to be spot on compared to my analog meters on amps and volts and the watts seems right for those values.

Make sure the main power carrying leads are tightly connected.

Might be worth powering it down [disconnect the red lead] a few seconds and then powering it up again.

I had 2 that were bad from the factory so that is always a possibility, too.

Tom

commanda · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2011, 02:20:06 PM »

All the current has to flow through the Doc Wattson's black lead.
Remove the existing black lead from rectifier neg to battery neg.

Amanda

taylorp035 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2011, 05:27:58 PM »

Hook it up as if you were using two ammeters, one for the positive side (red) and one for the negative side (black).

Boss · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2011, 05:48:28 PM »

So the DocWatson sits right in the middle of the circuit with all the power going through it?

Tink · « **Reply #8 on:** February 08, 2011, 07:09:04 PM »

Tom and everyone,
No matter how I hook it up I get the same erroneous readings.

Amanda,
When I take the source black wire to the negative battery terminal I get readings from the solar array and they are erroneous too.

I'm convinced I have a faulty meter and so I'll get it replaced and see what happens.

Thanks to all for helping me with this!

Tink

Tink · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2011, 11:33:34 AM »

Anyone,
I just received the new Doc Wattson and hooked it up and it is doing the same thing.....erroneous readings. These readings seam to be 10% of what my analog ammeter reads except for the volts which read correctly. Maby this is the nature of the beast with a 24 volt system? Is it possible that something in my system is acting like a shunt?
I'm confused.
Tink

Tink · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2011, 11:42:13 AM »

Talyorp023,

"Hook it up as if you were using two ammeters, one for the positive side (red) and one for the negative side (black)."

Would you elaborate on that, please.

Thanks, Tink

commanda · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2011, 02:22:39 PM »

http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/amp-meter-connection.html

Bottom one. Ignore the auxiliary connection.

Remove all existing wiring between source and load first.

Amanda

defed · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2011, 04:04:08 PM »

i have my turnigy hooked up as shown in Amanda's link (last pic minus the aux).

defed · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2011, 11:01:26 PM »

i was mistaken, i have mine hooked up as in the 2nd to last picture....turbine on source, battery on load. last picture has them opposite. i knew that when i posted, i just didn't look at the pics close enough!

commanda · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2011, 12:51:51 AM »

Semantics. In terms of a wind turbine, the battery is the load.
But yes, the second last picture conveys the same idea.

Tink · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2011, 03:00:14 AM »

Amanda and Defed,
That makes sense. I'll try it tomorrow (today later). Now I see the way I have it connected it isn't getting the full current flow.
Great, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Tink

defed · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:07:09 AM »

Quote from: commanda on February 26, 2011, 12:51:51 AM

Semantics. In terms of a wind turbine, the battery is the load.
But yes, the second last picture conveys the same idea.

right, i just wanted to make the correction as to avoid further confusion.

ChrisOlson · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2011, 11:52:47 PM »

Quote from: Tink on February 26, 2011, 03:00:14 AM

That makes sense. I'll try it tomorrow (today later). Now I see the way I have it connected it isn't getting the full current flow.
Great, I'll let you know how it turns out.

Just keep in mind that you can't push much more than about 30 amps thru that Doc Wattson for very long without an external shunt on it. They claim it will handle 50 continuous and 100 peak, but that's pretty optimistic considering the tiny shunt in there and only 14 gauge wire. I've melted the solder off two of them on the load side black lead and they quit working. Then you split the case, unsolder the black leads and the shunt, solder in twisted pair ethernet cable wire to the kelvin sense pads and run the twisted pair to a external 100 mv shunt that will handle a lot more heat than the tiny thing they got in that meter.
--
Chris

commanda · « **Reply #18 on:** February 27, 2011, 02:02:28 AM »

Quote from: ChrisOlson on February 26, 2011, 11:52:47 PM

Just keep in mind that you can't push much more than about 30 amps thru that Doc Wattson for very long without an external shunt on it. They claim it will handle 50 continuous and 100 peak, but that's pretty optimistic considering the tiny shunt in there and only 14 gauge wire. I've melted the solder off two of them on the load side black lead and they quit working. Then you split the case, unsolder the black leads and the shunt, solder in twisted pair ethernet cable wire to the kelvin sense pads and run the twisted pair to a external 100 mv shunt that will handle a lot more heat than the tiny thing they got in that meter.
--
Chris

That's the setup I use on my scooter. Except I used light duty fig 8.

But right now, I think Tink would be happy just to get it working at all.

Amanda

Tink · « **Reply #19 on:** February 27, 2011, 01:51:39 PM »

Chris,

Maby I'll leave it like it is and just do the math in my head every time I look at the darn thing since I often get readings over 45 amps on my analog meter. Do you see any problem with this approach?

Thanks for your input!
Tink

ChrisOlson · « **Reply #20 on:** February 27, 2011, 01:59:40 PM »

Quote from: Tink on February 27, 2011, 01:51:39 PM

Maby I'll leave it like it is and just do the math in my head every time I look at the darn thing since I often get readings over 45 amps on my analog meter. Do you see any problem with this approach?

With the size wire on the meter, and having melted the solder off the load side black lead on a couple of them, I don't think much over 30 amps sustained is advisable. When you have the thing inline on your wind turbine, and the shunt goes open in the meter, you have a runaway turbine.

Putting the big external shunt on it is the only way to go for a wind turbine. The 100 amp external shunt will handle about 70 amps continuous and I've put 140 amps thru mine without hurting it.
--
Chris

Antero · « **Reply #21 on:** February 27, 2011, 02:17:18 PM »

I have tried this Doc Wattson. Those wires etc ?

I have now this;
http://translate.google.fi/translate?hl=fi&sl=sv&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.odelco.se%2FOdelco-Batt-Meter3.html

It has 500amp shunt and I can sleap my nights

Antero

ChrisOlson · « **Reply #22 on:** February 28, 2011, 11:26:28 AM »

Quote from: Antero on February 27, 2011, 02:17:18 PM

I have tried this Doc Wattson. Those wires etc ?
I have now this;
http://translate.google.fi/translate?hl=fi&sl=sv&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.odelco.se%2FOdelco-Batt-Meter3.html
It has 500amp shunt and I can sleap my nights

You can put a 500 amp shunt on the Doc Wattson too. And it displays kWh, and is one of the only DC energy measuring meters, for a reasonable price, that I know of that does that.
--
Chris

Antero · « **Reply #23 on:** March 01, 2011, 01:31:15 PM »

This is what I buy next;

http://www.bogartengineering.com/

Antero

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Author Topic: Doc Wattson hookup (Read 4779 times)