power room

[thirteen]

I have seen the pictures of different power control rooms. I am going to build a power control shed and would like some ideas as what problems crop up or just things that could be done better for usage of the shed. It will be 8 ft X 14 ft,  2x6 walls, 4-5 in concrete floor, two windows, one exhaust fan, two battery banks 12v then go to 24v later, controls for the solar, controls for the hydro, (I will need a duel system). Work bench, one small battery separate from the others for work light. Does it work better if the batteries are up to a bench height or down just off the floor? I will have mixed battery banks for the next 3 years then replace everything with new stuff.  The batteries I have now are old and have been abused but they were free. They will get me by for a couple of years. Get my feet wet before swimming is my idea. I need some do's and no oops for the shed. I can make it bigger. I am putting it next to the wood shed so space is not a issue. It does get cold there during the winter -30 for sometimes up to 2 months.  I may go to a thicker wall. There will be times when I will not be up there during the winter months so I willneed to protect the batteries. I would appreciate some suggestions.

[ghurd]

No matter how many terminals you make on a buss bar, it is never quite enough.
G-

[Volvo farmer]

That's a real similar size to what I have. When I built mine, someone suggested that I put a 5 foot wall along the 8 foot dimension, dividing the 14 foot section into a 5 and a 9 foot section (or 4 and 10) . Put the batteries on one side of the wall, put the electronics on the other. The theory was that any nasty corrosive fumes coming off the batteries would not degrade sensitive, expensive electronics. My batteries are in an insulated box, so it's a non-issue, but I still like the design very much.  I decided to leave my shed uninsulated and insulate my battery box. That seems to have worked out OK. There's room in my big section for the batteries, a generator and a set of shelves, that could just as easily be a workbench. I have used a box fan before to keep the generator cool and blow out the exhaust fumes.  I have had no problems maintaining L16 size batteries on the floor.

I don't know why you'd want an extra battery just for a light, it just adds complexity. My light is 120V right off the inverter. Lastly, if you want my advice, forget 12V and 24V altogether. Go 48V. Do it right, do it once and don't have to do it again. At least that what I would have done, looking back.

[thirteen]

The side battery would be used if I have the battery banks off line working on them. I figured I would use it for the work light and when I am gone and getting back it would be used for lighting when turning things back on. It will be tied to two yard lights outside. that way I would leave the main system alone.   On the 48v system, would it be a problem with my transformers. I will go high voltage from my (hydro) generator to the power house which is around 700 ft then transform down to the battery banks. I haven't thought of that problem. I'll have to look into that closer. Thank you.

[dnix71]

http://www.jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#freeze_points   At 50% state of charge your batteries will freeze at -10F.

At 75% SOC charge they will still freeze at -35F.

Storing them in those conditions just isn't good for them. Plus you lose about 3/4 of the rated capacity at those temps. If your winters are that harsh you need to keep them in a heated room or in a room next to a heated room. Off the floor some would help keep them warmer in winter.

[fabricator]

Make one whole wall a piece of 3/4" plywood with standoffs running horizontally behind it so you can run lots of unsightly spaghetti wire behind the power board, the pros usually mount equipment so it flows from DC input power turbines/solar panels to the other end being the AC end of things, Like ghurd said build a BIG DC buss panel with bars that have separators, hook all your, battery strings to the buss and make any series connections on the buss not on the battery strings.
Your dump controllers, wires from the rectifier everything gets hooked to the buss, fuse EVERY positive battery post ALWAYS, with a proper sized fuse, always hook your positive and negative paralell battery string cables to opposite ends of the string.
A good big DC buss will make life a lot easier in the future. The only suggestion for the batteries is don't let em freeze or they are junk, really good insulation and a small electric heater or an unvented automatic propane heater, not letting the batteries freeze is gonna be rule #1.

[hayfarmer]

Hi,smart way to save the head aches. I built my power shed and parked it on skids 5 feet from house,"so I can pack up and go" and connected 2 2.5  inch conduits to house power room ac in to inverter and out to house and d.c. and communications. I built it 2x4 but wish I used 2x6 better insulation.I insulated the floor pressure treated plywood on both sides and 2 layers on top for battery support.



on the inside of power shed I built a battery box for my VRLA batteries but should have built a better insulated box.will redo in future,Agree battery happiness is the key. just checked the temps bat 47 F and out side 24 F ,think I will build a 2x6 wall in sections with fiberglass center and thick foam on each side.may knit little sweaters for the batteries 



good luck on your project.more power to ya

hayfarmer

[thirteen]

About 10 years ago I helped a guy build a room for his milking parlor which might work here. We used 2x8's then we off set the wall studs using 2x4's. outside at 24in the inside at 16 in. Then ran the wiring and insulated with 3 1/2 insulation both inside then also outside. This stopped any cold transfer threw the wall studs. Using 2x6's for the ceiling rafters we extended the roof by 3 feet and dropped the insulation over top of the walls down about 12in. on the oustside. Thus stopping heat loss from the top plates.
I will have to look into foam blocks and see the prices and problems with them.  They seem to work fine and I am sure there is a $$ on them. I wish I could build the shed into the mountain and use the ground heat to keep things warm for free. Old style root cellar. Proper venting might be a problem with that. The pantry inside the house was built with walls 12 in thick and they used sawdust for the insulation. It stays around 52 / 56 during the summer (if you keep the door closed) and around 38 to 44 during the winter. I have gotton up there during January when it has been -30 for weeks and it is still around 38.
 Don't most batteries like it around 60 + degrees?
As a chuckle, will you put their names on their little sweaters?

[hayfarmer]

 

lol.its all about the batteries.with out the storage you are waisting your power.like have a race car dragging a anchor. optimum battery temp is 77 F .sounds like a

good design on that milking shed.I have a 48 v fan I use for ventilation mostly for summer to help with heat but I think the improvement in battery box will help .

the most. At my farm I built a basement  beneath my chemical shed to keep volatile chemicals from evaporating and also freezing in winter,the temps are around 55 f

year round.maybe this would work as a battery storage compartment. notice the air intake 3 inch PVC and the solar chimney black vent connected to the

basement by  3 inch metal pipe.vents very well.







hayfarmer