Dan's 20 foot turbine (Sweden)

[DanielInSweden]

I will share my project in this thread. Please comment and ask questions. I pretty much follow the Otherpower guy´s 20ft instructions, excellent guidance by the way... I´ll use the energy for waterheating purposes and will not connect to the grid. I´m not here very often, please don´t hang me if you don´t get fast replies . Regards/Dan

[kitestrings]

Hi Dan,

It look's like you have something under the magnets (and some sort of 'bump-out' at each location), between them and the magnet rotor.  just curious what that is?

DaveB, who's pretty regular here has had quite a bit of experience with water heating applications.  It changes the design parameters quite a bit from battery charger.  He might be a good source of information, and has posted some of his experiences here also.

good luck with it,

~kitestrings

[DanielInSweden]

Kitestrings, the thing under the magnets is corrosion protective primer and the bump out you see is a flexible but strong SikaBond T2 to prevent the magnets from turning around the center spring dowel pin. Thank´s for pointing out DaveB for me, I have read hes posts for a couple of years and he has a lot of experience. Regards/Dan 

[kitestrings]

The challenge, I suspect, will be matching the (water heater) load to the available wind.  If you can do that well you should be successful.

[DanielInSweden]

..next challenge is to wind the coils and cast the stator..but first, a test coil, I´ll keep you posted as soon test results are available

Daniel : I fixed the 2nd pic for ya. Nice!! BTW bruce s

[DanielInSweden]

..thank´s Bruce!  /D

[spitfire]

Congratulations Daniel, expect all the electrical testing.
 What hub did you use?
 greetings
 SpitsFire

[DanielInSweden]

Spitfire, I use a standard hub rated at 6600lbs bolt circle diameter 205mm and shaft diameter 70mm. It comes with a square shaft which I have turned in the lathe to dia 70mm to fit the hole in the frame.

More testing will come, I have not received the wire yet but made a simple test with standard cable. Created a few volts.. my first volts

[artv]

Hi Daniel,......Very nice looking so far. Could you describe your test coil??...thanks.... artv

[DanielInSweden]

artv, it´s not much of a test coil, just a quick check that the generator works with standard cable we use in ordinary house wiring (1,5mm2) for 240VAC. I don´t know how representative it is but I made this coil since I havn´t bought the wire for the real coils yet.

[DanielInSweden]

..made another test coil today, 35 turns gives approx. 2,5VAC @ approx. 60rpm with an airgap of ~7mm each side of the coil. I´m not sure if the airgap affect the voltage or not..? I will narrow it down towards 2mm each side at final test. 2,5VAC x 15coils = 37,5 RMS(RootMeanSquare) volt. 37,5 x 1,414 - 1,4(rectifier loss) = 51,63volts to battery

Did I calculate it right? In case I did, it seems this coil is pretty close to what I will wind. However, I will make one testcoil later when I have the correct wire available.

[Boss]

ooohhh, aaahhh, pretty
Nice craftsmanship. I like the way you mounted the axle in the housing
Brian

[DanielInSweden]

Boss, thank you! Interesting site you have there, are you a pastor yourself?

[zvizdic]

..made another test coil today, 35 turns gives approx. 2,5VAC @ approx. 60rpm with an airgap of ~7mm each side of the coil. I´m not sure if the airgap affect the voltage or not..? I will narrow it down towards 2mm each side at final test. 2,5VAC x 15coils = 37,5 RMS(RootMeanSquare) volt. 37,5 x 1,414 - 1,4(rectifier loss) = 51,63volts to battery

Did I calculate it right? In case I did, it seems this coil is pretty close to what I will wind. However, I will make one testcoil later when I have the correct wire available.

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

2.5 x 5 = 12.5 x1.73 =21.625 x 1.44 = 31.14 - 1.4 = 29.74    You need 4.2 coil voltage.

[artv]

Zvizdic,....I see you changed Daniels' 15 coil count to 5,...because of .. 3/phase??
Does that math apply to single phase??
I'm still trying to figure out this math.........artv

[silentblue1987]

Excellent Craftsmanship! 

I've always wondered if someone was bold enough to lighten the stator plates, but after seeing it, I'm all for it. 

[zvizdic]

Zvizdic,....I see you changed Daniels' 15 coil count to 5,...because of .. 3/phase??
Does that math apply to single phase??
I'm still trying to figure out this math.........artv

Dan's 20' is a 3 phase  alternator

[luv2weld]

Excellent work!!
You should be very proud.
I do have one question.

In the picture labeled  DSC01579.JPG, (the next to the last), what is the coil mounted on???


Ralph

[DanielInSweden]

Thank you all for the nice words! Thank you zvizdic for correcting my incorrect formula. Ralph, the plate is a piece of thin 4mm fiber board cut from an excessive IKEA piece that fit a "faktum" kitchen cabinet

[Boss]

Boss, thank you! Interesting site you have there, are you a pastor yourself?

Dad was our pastor, I put his books on my site so more people would read them, thanks man
Brian

[zvizdic]

Zvizdic,....I see you changed Daniels' 15 coil count to 5,...because of .. 3/phase??
Does that math apply to single phase??
I'm still trying to figure out this math.........artv

Sorry 1 phase ----  coil voltage x 15 in this case x 1,44 - 1.4 diode drop

[DanielInSweden]

It´s been a while...

Have spent the time designing brakesystems and there will be 3ea of them. 1ea knife switch, 1ea discbrake 400mm(brake parts from VW), 1ea steel wire from ground connected to the tail via 2ea pulleys to fine tune furling point from the ground. It´s been a challenge to fit the discbrake on the backface of the rear rotordisc. There is only 42mm space between the rotordisc and the stator mounts, it´s tight but will work.. I might do this differently next time and fit a standard discbrake. This one is customized and more expensive than neccessary...hmm 

[luv2weld]

Really beautiful work. I could look at the picture of the rotors for an hour. It is absolutely gorgeous!!!!

Thanks for letting us see it.

Ralph

[DanielInSweden]

Thank´s Ralph, I´m glad if I can inspire through my design I´ts an otherpower copy so I can take much credit for it.. there are other guy´s out there much smarter than me=)

I will now start assembling the discbrake and after that weld the tail.

More pictures soon

/Daniel

[DanielInSweden]

Thank´s Ralph, I´m glad if I can inspire through my design I´ts an otherpower copy so I can take much credit for it.. there are other guy´s out there much smarter than me=)

I will now start assembling the discbrake and after that weld the tail.

More pictures soon

/Daniel

...sorry..typo   it should have been " I can´t take much credit for it.. 

[Antero]

If you will use it to warm water, you need high voltage 200-300v to really get energy and you allso can use normal resistors.

There is a good solution for warming controller;

http://translate.google.fi/translate?sl=fi&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=fi&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.poikkis.net%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D5032.0&act=url

Antero
Finland

[DanielInSweden]

Thank you Antero!

There are a few good way´s of controlling the turbine. I have read a lot about different good-to-bad solutions and have decided to build 48volts with battery and rectifiers. I also have a need for stable 240v in my house and thats one of the reasons I build with battery. I might experiment with other solutions on my next project.

Regards

Daniel

[DanielInSweden]

Trial assembly of brake disc on backface of rear rotor disc. The disc rests on 6ea 29mm high steel bushings with an 12mm hole in each bushing. It´s bolted to the rear rotordisc with 10.9 countersunk steel bolts. There is a gap of 4mm between the brake disc and the stator bracket arms. The 6ea threaded(M12) bolt holes for the brake disc are the same as used for jacking the rotordisc. So far so good..

[SparWeb]

I know it's just a trial installation, but your picture reminds me that the rotor shaft can flex. 
You will need clearance between the brake caliper and the rotor disk.  More than 4mm.

Great-looking work and good integration of the brake disk system.  The large turbine will benefit from the system.

[DanielInSweden]

Thank´s Sparweb for giving me heads up. I´ll do what I can to increase the gap. My rotor axle is massive and 70mm in diameter. If it bends I most likely will have a stator/magnet rub before the brake disc rubs the stator mounts. But I agree with you, better safe than sorry... on the other hand, taking a chance here and there makes it more fun, the tricky thing is to stay on the edge   

[fabricator]

Remember your brake disc needs to have a little wobble to push the pads out when it's disengaged.

[DanielInSweden]

Thank´s fabricator! I´ll keep that in mind. As it is right know I´m working to get the wobble down from tenth to hundreds of an mm. Other things that apply a force to the brake piston is the seal (square) that will turn slightly when engaged and help the piston back when disengaged. Also, the small suction via the brake fluid on the back of the caliper piston when you disengage the main brake piston(i.e. the one you normally have closest to your foot . I believe that if you have a well serviced system you can have a 100% parallell brake disc doing the job for you.

Now, I´ll figure out what the best method is to use in order to engage the brake... hydraulic/elektrical servo motor, hydraulic/pneumatic, springloaded/hydraulic simple and robust is the target.. what would you choose?

[midwoud1]

Hi Daniel .
I worked before with the same kind of brake system . A  motorcycle caliper . A high-pressure 1/4 " hose down the mast .
With a hydraulic handpump ..a simple car panel ram-pump. Did good.

Regards Frans.