Author Topic: 20 volt panels  (Read 17044 times)

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ChrisOlson

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20 volt panels
« on: August 30, 2011, 08:08:21 AM »
I'm looking at getting four Sharp monocrystalline 240 watt solar panels that are rated 20 volt nominal.  The specs say their optimum operating voltage is 30.1, open voltage is 37.4.  They are designed for grid-tie systems.  Do the solar experts know if these panels will work OK for battery charging on a 24 volt off-grid system?

This is the panels I'm looking at:
http://www.spheralsolar.com/products/Sharp-240W-PV-Module-Solar-Panel.html

The data sheet on them:
http://www.dcpower-systems.com/uploads/products/25395_2.pdf
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DanG

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2011, 10:22:40 AM »
At first glance they appear good, then do the math on the temperature coefficient:

Sun heated panels (60°C) voltage output would drop to 26.3/13.15~ which would barely be a float voltage.

It'd be famous good on those subzero clear and calm winter days though...

Algie

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2011, 10:24:29 AM »
yes the voltage on the load is good for charging 24V batteries

birdhouse

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2011, 12:18:45 PM »
chris-
i've got two panels (different brand) that are almost the same specs running on my 24v system.  mine are 245watts.  30.5Vmp, and 37.? Voc.  they may not be the best IF they are the only panels in your system.  they barely have enough voltage to hit equalize, however, this makes them much heavier hitters if you battery bank is low and needs charging.  in other words, they a better matched for bulk stages than a traditional 24v nom. panel, but less suited for the float/equalize than a nom 24v panel.  though float and equalize take very few amps by comparison. 

i've got some 36Vmp panels, and 30.5Vmp panels.  just last weekend, i put my controller into equalize with just my 36Vmp panels, and the batteries hit 30.1 volts.  then put everything back to normal, disconnected the 36Vmp panels, and connected just the 30.5Vmp panels and put the controller back to equalize mode, and the batteries hit the same 30.1 volts.  this was performed during 90+ degree temps, so the panels were HOT!  i also had no diodes installed because my controller takes care of this, and i didn't want to lose any voltage. 

sooo, even though experts say the 30.5Vmp panels aren't perfectly suited, they actually might be better suited for a 24v nom. bank.  even though you're falling off the curve at the higher voltages, so few amps are needed to hit equalize, and float, that it doesn't seem to matter. 

now lets say it is 0 deg F, equalize takes your bank up to almost 32v at times.  now these panels "might" not get you there, but i think they still will.  again you've got up to 37Voc.  this is where you have no amps flowing, and basically have fallen off the curve, but pull the voltage on the curve back to say 32V, and you still have some amps flowing...  hopefully enough to still hit equalize... 

conclusion: since you already have "proper 24v nom." panels, that will easily get you to equalize at any temperature/condition, i'd say pull the trigger on these "odd" panels.  for 95% of the time, they will outproduce your standard panels watt for watt due to being better matched on the curve and the Vmp.

adam

dnix71

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2011, 12:26:41 PM »
Your panels are NOCT rated rather than STC according to the pdf.
In direct sun the cell temps would likely be 70C in the real world.
But the * by Pmax goes to a note that they are assuming
1Kw/m2 at 25C. This seems to contradict the ratings listed below that says the NOCT is at 47.5C

Maximum Power (Pmax)* Tolerance of Pmax   +10%/-5%   
Type of Cell Cell Configuration   60 in series
Monocrystalline silicon
Maximum Power Voltage (Vpm)   30.1 V
Maximum Power Current (Ipm)   7.98 A
NOCT 47.5°C
Temperature Coefficient (Pmax)   -0.485%/°C
Temperature Coefficient (Voc)    -0.351%/°C
Temperature Coefficient (lsc)         0.053%/°C

60 cells in series will work, but 72 would have been a lot better.

It's hard to know what number to trust. Voc drops almost 1% for every 3C increase.
If the rating is at 25C, then at 70C you would only have about 21Voc.
If the NOCT is correct, then the Voc would be above 29.5v which would be okay for a 24v nominal system.

RP

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2011, 12:33:30 PM »
47.5°C would be over 117°F so I'm guessing that IS the cell temperature in a 25°C ambient at full sun rather than the ambient temperature itself.

birdhouse

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2011, 12:40:13 PM »
my new 245w 30.5Vmp have 30 6x6 cells, and were being tested (in my previous post) at solar noon in 92 deg F so the cells have to have been super hot! 

mine were bought from sunelec, their "sun" brand.  not sure if these are NOCT or STC rated, but they worked really well with my 24v nom. system!

adam

ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2011, 01:43:47 PM »
Thanks for all the replies, guys.

I got 1,230 watts of "regular" 24 volt panels and I was looking at these because the price seemed good and I figured they might supply us with the "heavy hitter" amps from 10:00 in the morning to mid afternoon when we need the most power to get our bank fully charged and float it the rest of the day.  The bank is running at around 28.4 volts during that time (usually) when we need the big amps to get the bank thru the bulk charge.

It sounds like they might work OK in the winter time and in the summer would be a little short on voltage.  Which might not be all that bad because the days are longer in the summer so our "useable" solar day runs well into late afternoon.  It's in the winter time with the short days that we really need the extra power.

I'm still undecided......
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Chris

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2011, 02:06:10 PM »
Quote from: ChrisOlson


Do the solar experts know if these panels will work OK for battery charging on a 24 volt off-grid system?



Yes, in parallel with a MPPT charge controller.  :P









sorry, couldn't resist.  ;D
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DanG

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2011, 02:10:11 PM »
With shipping from Colorado me thinks its a non-starter.

ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #10 on: August 30, 2011, 02:20:30 PM »
Yes, in parallel with a MPPT charge controller.  :P

Dang.  Another confounded box with factory smoke in it bolted to the wall    ::)
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ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #11 on: August 30, 2011, 06:39:55 PM »
i'd say pull the trigger on these "odd" panels.  for 95% of the time, they will outproduce your standard panels watt for watt due to being better matched on the curve and the Vmp.

Thanks adam.  After reading your description of how they work, and that they do work, I ordered the panels today.  The main reason I want them is for extra power during the short days of winter.  In the summer, with the long days, our present array is fine and if I get some extra from these other four new panels I ordered, then that's icing on the cake.  But it sounds like they'll probably work better than our present panels in the winter when we really need the power.  So I got 'em on the way.

The shipping wasn't too bad - $150 for truck freight from Colorado.
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birdhouse

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #12 on: August 30, 2011, 07:24:29 PM »
chris-
you're welcome.  congrats on a new ~KW of panels!  the watts add up quick with those big panels!

just make sure you use plenty thick enough wiring.  you may want to forgo the diodes also.  don't want to eat up any of the voltage with install items, especially when they barely have high enough voltage in the first place. 

adam

Volvo farmer

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #13 on: August 30, 2011, 08:41:45 PM »
Quote from: ChrisOlso

Dang.  Another confounded box with factory smoke in it bolted to the wall    ::)
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I understand where you're coming from and do respect keeping things simple. I happen to prefer carburetors to fuel injection myself.

Can't help but take one last dig though. If it wasn't for interconnected smoke-filled boxes in air conditioned rooms all over the planet, you'd be asking about 20 volt solar panels on a note thumb-tacked to the local church bulletin board.  ;)
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ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #14 on: August 30, 2011, 08:56:34 PM »
just make sure you use plenty thick enough wiring.  you may want to forgo the diodes also.  don't want to eat up any of the voltage with install items, especially when they barely have high enough voltage in the first place.

Thanks for that tip.  Are the diodes in the junction box, or what?

It says in the specs to never subject them to more than 33 volts (I think it said) and I suspect that's because of the diodes?  The panels will be "safe" from over-voltage because I got a Morningstar RD-1 that controls my system.  It kicks on 4 kW worth of water heater elements in two stages, 2 kW comes online at 28.5 and the second 2 kW comes online at 29.0 volts, the way I got it configured at present.

If the voltage gets to 30, channel three on the RD-1 disconnects the solar array from the system (I'll install a separate relay for these newest four panels so they're isolated from the other ones during the disconnect) and at 31 volts the RD-1 trips a pilot relay that trips the big relays on each turbine that shuts the turbines down so the inverters don't kick out.

If I take the diodes out, will all this be OK?
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ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #15 on: August 30, 2011, 08:57:58 PM »
Can't help but take one last dig though. If it wasn't for interconnected smoke-filled boxes in air conditioned rooms all over the planet, you'd be asking about 20 volt solar panels on a note thumb-tacked to the local church bulletin board.  ;)

I tried something like that once and they kicked me out of the church.  LOL!
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birdhouse

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #16 on: August 30, 2011, 10:44:04 PM »
i've never had sharp panels, so this is just a guess...  i'd bet there's atleast one potted in silicone in the j-box.  i'd guess you would leave that one alone, though ghurd talks of clipping these out, as though they aren't needed.  this region is not my specialty. 

i was getting at not adding an additional diode to each panel.  some folks do this to absolutely keep reverse current flow, but i think most new panels have this built in???  the drop of .7v from adding an additional could really hurt your performance. 

someone else will probably explain this better than i.

adam

ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #17 on: August 31, 2011, 12:12:55 AM »
i was getting at not adding an additional diode to each panel.  some folks do this to absolutely keep reverse current flow, but i think most new panels have this built in???

OK, thanks.  I see what you're saying.  I wasn't going to put any blocking diodes in for them anyway.  I don't have any on my present solar array and it has always worked fine.  With these low voltage panels I don't know how that will be affected when I equalize my battery bank.  The inverters run the voltage at 31 volts during equalization and that's below the open circuit voltage of the panels, so I think it should be OK.  But maybe one of the solar gurus who are more knowledgeable on this stuff will weigh in here.

I don't have any sort of controller or MPPT on my present array.  The panels put out full power - all they can make - all the time and the power goes to water heating when the bank voltage is sufficient to start doing that.  The only control is what I described with the RD-1 where the panels get shut off in an over-voltage situation to prevent the inverters from kicking out.  And that never happens unless the turbines are putting out over 4 kW in good wind, or a water heater element burns out.  I manually equalize once a month and use the generator and inverter chargers to do it.  If equalization voltage will be a problem for them I can install a switch to shut them off (disconnect them from the system) while the bank is being equalized.
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ChrisOlson

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Mounting panels
« Reply #18 on: September 04, 2011, 01:21:06 PM »
Since I don't have a tracking system, I was thinking about mounting these big panels I got on the house roof.  We live at 45 degrees latitude so I was going to mount them at 55-60 degrees for winter time and make the mount adjustable so I can tilt them down flatter in summer.

I'm not too concerned about getting peak power during "high noon" because that will just make my system dump excessive power (we already got 1,230 watts worth of Sharp 123's, plus three wind turbines).  What I wanted instead is getting a longer lower average output.  For the solar gurus here - if I place two panels facing SSE and the other two facing SSW - will I get the same kWh in a day from the panels, but just lower peak power during "high noon"?  If this will work OK, and not cut the energy production of the panels too much, I think it will help with getting excessive amps during the peak of the day so my system doesn't overheat the water heater by mid afternoon.

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DamonHD

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #19 on: September 04, 2011, 01:51:42 PM »
Chris,

I'd need to go back and look at your description of your existing array, but using MPPT can get a lot of extra oomph (~30% claimed) out of your existing PV, especially when the battery is low, by converting some of the extra volts difference (PV - batt) to amps as it were to avoid throwing away that extra power through voltage mismatch, plus an MPPT controller can also prevent back flow of current to dark panels with less than a diode's forward drop in daylight.

I'm now using MPPT on everything, on-grid and off.

Rgds

Damon

PS. I've presumably missed some your reason for avoiding MPPT, so please ignore this!
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ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2011, 02:44:08 PM »
My present array does make the full power without MPPT during "high noon".  And on really cold days I've gotten upwards of 1,300 watts from it.  The Sharp 123's are "standard" panels that go to something like 20 or 21 open volts - they are 12 volt.  I have ten of them wired series parallel for 24 volt.

These new panels are called 20 volt panels by some people - others call them 29 volt panels.  Their open voltage only goes to someplace in the low 30's and their optimum operating voltage is about 29.  According to Adam's description, they should perform quite well on a 24 volt system without MPPT because they have a closer match between the optimum operating voltage vs load.

What I am concerned about is getting too much peak power during "high noon".  My panels run wide open all the time.  In other words I do not have any sort of voltage controller, PWM, charge controller, etc., hooked to them.  Instead, when my bank gets up to full charge my Morningstar RD-1 turns on water heater elements in two 2 kW stages.  The water heater elements are standard 2,000 watt 240 volt elements powered by the inverters and the inverter load on the battery bank controls voltage when the bank is full.

On a good day when I'm getting 1,300 watts from one array, 1,000 watts from the new panels, and 3 kW from turbines, I will have too much power.  4 kW of water heating load is not going to keep up, and I don't need more water heating power.

The reason I'm adding these new panels is to provide more power in the winter when the days are short to reduce run time on our Generac EcoGen for water heating.  But I think they'll need to be "throttled" somewhat because of the above scenario where I'll get too much peak power during "high noon".  I would like that to be reduced and get a longer period of lower average amps.

What I was wondering is if, instead of facing the panels due south, if I would place half of them facing SSE and the other half SSW if this would produce the same kWh in a day as having them all face due south, but reduce the peak amps during "high noon"?
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DamonHD

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2011, 03:07:37 PM »
You'll get less overall output, especially in winter, but a flatter curve which may be easier to handle (reduced peak currents).

Rgds

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ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #22 on: September 04, 2011, 04:04:43 PM »
Thanks Damon!  I knew it would reduce peak power, or flatten the curve.  But I didn't know how it would affect total energy production of the panels for the day.
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rossw

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2011, 09:22:38 PM »
My present array does make the full power without MPPT during "high noon".  And on really cold days I've gotten upwards of 1,300 watts from it.  The Sharp 123's are "standard" panels that go to something like 20 or 21 open volts - they are 12 volt.  I have ten of them wired series parallel for 24 volt.

Sorry to argue, but you are NOT getting "full power".
A panel that'll make 20-21V open circuit will have a peak power at about 17.4V, depending on temperature etc. (*2 for a "24V system")
If your batteries are at float voltage, you won't be soaking up full power, so lets not even consider that.
So lets say your batteries are "nearly" charged (so they have a reasonably high terminal voltage, but still taking charge). Lets say 28V.
That's just about 7V of mismatch.  I'm guessing your panels "peak output current" is about 7A. So 35A for your 5 parallel strings.
35A * 7V *WASTED* = 245W. Almost 20%!.

Quote
These new panels are called 20 volt panels by some people - others call them 29 volt panels.  Their open voltage only goes to someplace in the low 30's and their optimum operating voltage is about 29.  According to Adam's description, they should perform quite well on a 24 volt system without MPPT because they have a closer match between the optimum operating voltage vs load.

Much closer, sure.


Quote
What I am concerned about is getting too much peak power during "high noon".  My panels run wide open all the time.  In other words I do not have any sort of voltage controller, PWM, charge controller, etc., hooked to them.  Instead, when my bank gets up to full charge my Morningstar RD-1 turns on water heater elements in two 2 kW stages.  The water heater elements are standard 2,000 watt 240 volt elements powered by the inverters and the inverter load on the battery bank controls voltage when the bank is full.

ok, so just a big dumpload.


Quote
On a good day when I'm getting 1,300 watts from one array, 1,000 watts from the new panels, and 3 kW from turbines, I will have too much power.  4 kW of water heating load is not going to keep up, and I don't need more water heating power.

The reason I'm adding these new panels is to provide more power in the winter when the days are short to reduce run time on our Generac EcoGen for water heating.  But I think they'll need to be "throttled" somewhat because of the above scenario where I'll get too much peak power during "high noon".  I would like that to be reduced and get a longer period of lower average amps.

Makes sense.

Quote
What I was wondering is if, instead of facing the panels due south, if I would place half of them facing SSE and the other half SSW if this would produce the same kWh in a day as having them all face due south, but reduce the peak amps during "high noon"?

If you deliberately aim your panels where the sun is well before solar noon, and well after, you will get largely what you're after.
You will want to be reasonably well "off axis" though. A 30 degree off-axis error will reduce output by about 15%

Where I am, today, the sun will be 47 deg above horizon and due north at solar noon.
At 10am, it'd be 8 degrees lower and 39 degrees further east.
If you pointed your "morning" panel there, it'd get peak power at 10am and be 30 degrees off-angle at solar noon, down 14%.
Similarly, if you had "afternoon" array pointing where the sun would be at 2pm, it'd be 8 degrees down and 39 degrees further west,
the same 30 degrees off-axis and down 14% at noon but giving full output at 2pm.
The morning array would be 60 degrees off-axis and down 51% when the afternoon array was producing full output,
as would the afternoon array be 51% down when the morning array produced peak output.

Is 15% down from each "enough" at noon? You might have to move them to point further east and west respectively - some modeling would make short work of it.
(easiest way is just do vector dot.product of the normalised vectors of each angle - sun and each array)



ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #24 on: September 04, 2011, 09:57:14 PM »
Sorry to argue, but you are NOT getting "full power".

Well, that is entirely possible.  I'm by no means a solar power expert - all I know how to do is hook them up and aim them at the sun, basically.  I guess I figured since they're rated at 123 watts x 10 is 1,230 watts.  I have seen 1,300 watts from them on rare occasions.  More typically around 900-1,000 on bright sunny days.  The days when I have gotten more is when the sunlight seems to be scattered by a high thin cloud layer and it's cold out.  I know that doesn't make sense, but in bright blue clear sky they normally make less power than if there's a slight haze or high thin clouds, for some reason.

Quote
If you deliberately aim your panels where the sun is well before solar noon, and well after, you will get largely what you're after.
You will want to be reasonably well "off axis" though. A 30 degree off-axis error will reduce output by about 15%

That makes real good sense because that is basically what I have observed by looking at the watt meter while my current fixed array is operating during the day.

<snipped lots of good info that I need to study more and apply to my latitude in the winter time!>

Quote
Is 15% down from each "enough" at noon? You might have to move them to point further east and west respectively - some modeling would make short work of it.

Good point.  With a theoretical max power of 960 watts for the four panels I got, on a really good day they'd still be putting out ~815 watts at "high noon".  I think I need less than that.

After reading your description of how this should work, I think I might look at splitting both my arrays and pointing them both about 30 degrees off-axis, half and half.  Assuming my 1,230 watt array would be at "full power" at high noon, that would drop the output of that one to ~1,040 and the output of the new ones to about ~815 for a total output of ~1,850 - 1,860 watts at "high noon", or solar noon.  I think that would do the trick because then one water heater element could handle all the power from both arrays with ease, the other one can soak up 2 kW of turbine power, and I still got some power left over to run normal loads.  And it would give me more even (albeit lower at solar noon) output from the solar arrays thruout the day.

Of course, no day is "perfect".  So there will be days when its cloudy in the morning and sunny in the afternoon, or vice versa, and then I'll wish I had them all fixed due south.  LOL!  But, really, these new panels are "extra" and the only reason I bought them is to reduce run time on the gen in the winter.  If I make the mounts fully adjustable I can play with them a bit to find out what seems to work the best.

Thanks for the info!
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ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #25 on: September 06, 2011, 01:46:38 PM »
I'm happy to report that those low voltage solar panels work absolutely beautiful on a 24 volt system.  If the sun goes under a cloud and lets the panels cool off, they'll hit 1,100 watts briefly when the sun comes back out.  Then as the panels heat up they drop down to about 950, which is just about dead on the nuts "rated" power.  Meanwhile, in today's sunshine, the "regular" higher voltage panels are developing about 85% of their rated power (it's fairly warm here today so the panels get hot quick).

I got them mounted on the "standard" picnic table solar tracker array for right now until I get a proper mount built.    ;D
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birdhouse

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #26 on: September 06, 2011, 03:04:36 PM »
chris-
 i knew those panels would work out beautifully.  like i said, i've got very similar ones.  some folks stick that you need 35-36Vmp panels for 24v, and that may be true if you're using thin wire and adding additional diodes, and have poor terminations. 

i don't know that i would advocate 30ish Vmp panels to stand alone in a 24v nom bank, but i think it would work well if properly installed.   so long as you've got some (even smaller and way less wattage) 35-38 Vmp panels, they'll take care of the higher voltage equalize.  though equalize doesn't take that many amps.

it's very similar to the matching the alternator talk that has been popular on the board lately.  the 30 Vmp panels hit harder during probably 80% of the time while your 36 Vmp panels never really hit their sweet spot on their curve, but this extra voltage is good to have around on a cloudy day when your trying to hit float, or attempting to equalize.   

basically, i think on lets say a 1000w system, that 200-300w should be 35-36 Vmp panels and the other 700-800w should be 30 Vmp panels.  this would give you the security of higher voltage, yet the hard hitting amps that are better matched to the majority of the charge cycle. 

you mentioned being worried about them overloading your dump system with the rd-1.  would an additional ts-60 "play well with others" ?  maybe you could just set the new array on a ts-60 in pwm mode and not have to worry about how they would affect your dump system.  maybe this wouldn't work as the new ts-60 would have parameters changing too fast for it to keep up??  anyways a new ts-60 goes for $175 these days.  prices dropped huge when they unveiled their mppt ts-60. 

glad to hear the panels worked out well!

adam

rossw

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #27 on: September 06, 2011, 05:04:31 PM »
If the sun goes under a cloud and lets the panels cool off, they'll hit 1,100 watts briefly when the sun comes back out.  Then as the panels heat up they drop down to about 950, which is just about dead on the nuts "rated" power. 

Don't fail to consider "cloud edge effect".
I regularly see over 10A per string from my panels (they only claim 7.2A or something, short-circuit!).
Difference is, I also have a pyranometer and can see and quantify the increased light level around the edge of a cloud - its not (just) the panels temperature!

ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #28 on: September 06, 2011, 05:20:31 PM »
Hi guys,

What I'm seeing today is that as the voltage of the bank got up to 28 volts that the low voltage panels sort of taoer off on output when they're warm - like a built-in voltage regulator.  But the output of the high voltage array picks up at that voltage.

Then when the RD-1 triggers the first 2 kW water heater element the voltage of the bank drops with the extra 2 kW load and the low voltage panels "lean into the harness" and really pull!  Meanwhile the output of the other array drops off slightly when the bank voltage drops down to about 26.

I've decided I'm going to drill some holes in the ground, pour some cement and set a 8" diameter stainless steel pipe in there, and put them on a manual single axis tracking mount.  That way I can adjust the off-axis any place I want on days when the wind is blowing really good to regulate their power.  And on days when I got just solar I can adjust them three or four times a day to keep them tracking the sun for more power.  I'm going to put the array on the pole only about 12 feet from the shop door where it's handy to adjust them any time I want during the day.  On days when I'm gone I'll just point them due south and let them do what they do.

Maybe eventually I'll put an actuator on it and make it automatic.
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Chris

Rover

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #29 on: September 06, 2011, 05:28:28 PM »
Hi Chris,
"And on days when I got just solar I can adjust them three or four times a day to keep them tracking the sun for more power."

You do realize that when you go that step, you get closer to ability to have it track automatically. Knowing that isn't the goal you've stated, you also get closer to having it track auto when needed , simple microprossor and and some sensors, to actually (Can't believe I'm saying this), but track it out of the power zone based on certain conditions.

Might be a good idea when you design your rotation point on the pipe, to think down the road of automating it... not right now, but down the road

Rover
<Where did I bury that microcontroller?>

ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #30 on: September 06, 2011, 07:11:00 PM »
Hi Rover,

I'm going to design the mount for an actuator.  Right now I'm going to put a manual screw on it with a crank because I don't have an actuator laying around.  I need to run these panels for a couple weeks to get a "feel" for how my system is going to act with the extra power.  I can have the RD-1 turn them off too if I got 4 kW of water heating load going, plus normal loads, and the voltage still continues to climb.

Eventually, yes, I would like them to track automatically.  But I think I'd use a simple timer than moves them so many degrees every hour or so, then at the end of the day points them back east again.
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Chris

rossw

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #31 on: September 06, 2011, 09:24:06 PM »
I think I'd use a simple timer than moves them so many degrees every hour or so, then at the end of the day points them back east again.

Not sure how much wind you get there down low, but you might CONSIDER a slightly cleverer timer arrangement that after sundown moves the arrays HALF WAY home - ie, horizontal, to minimise their "sail" effect overnight. Then, run them all the way east shortly before sunrise.

My system uses left-over capacity in the home automation system (ie, it draws no additional power, required purchasing no extra bits). It takes 90 seconds to operate the actuators full open to full closed, or vice versa. So in the morning, half an hour before sunrise I drive them east for 60 seconds (make sure they hit the limit switches and are fully east). Then from sunup I tickle them west for a couple of seconds every 15 mins or so. Half an hour after sunset I drive them east for 45 seconds. This has been working really well.

ChrisOlson

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Re: 20 volt panels
« Reply #32 on: September 06, 2011, 10:23:11 PM »
So in the morning, half an hour before sunrise I drive them east for 60 seconds (make sure they hit the limit switches and are fully east). Then from sunup I tickle them west for a couple of seconds every 15 mins or so. Half an hour after sunset I drive them east for 45 seconds. This has been working really well.

That would probably be a good idea.  The panels are going on the tracking mount on the south side of my shop and they'll be protected from north and northeast winds, which is where we get our highest sustained winds in the winter.  In the summer we get our highest sustained winds from the east or SW, depending on the jet stream and the year.  And they would be susceptible to "sail effect" in the summer.

If you don't mind me asking, what sort of actuator do you use?
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Chris