Starting a Slow and Steady Windmill Genny (First Timer)

[Mastiffman]

better to get a MPPT unit and skip the hassle and time consuming project of building one?

there aren't many quality wind controllers made with mppt.  mignite solar does a few for ~$800.00.  otherwise, you can get a pwm type morningstar ts-60 for ~200, or a ghurd for less than 20!!  you have to solder it yourself, and make/buy a dump load, but that isn't hard, and the ts-60 doesn't come with the dump load either!  the upside the the ts-60 is it is temp compensated.

back to grounding...  even with tall trees, that steel pole could give you trouble!  i'd atleast use one 8' rod with #4 to brass, to the tower base. 

adam

 I thought that I read that Batteries would govern the charging process and that the dump load was ll that was needed to be worried about? I'm not trying to debate this with you, I wjust want to know for sure from those with real experince.

 About the Grounding rod. are there multiple thinkness sizes or just lengths? Also, how far will I have to sink it and I should probably use insulted hangers for the 4awg wire? whcih I also assume is not going to be stranded but solid copper?

 Thanks

[birdhouse]

most of the type of wind turbines found here are directly connected to the battery bank.  the charge controller also connects to the battery bank, and bleeds off excess juice to keep the battery voltage in check. 

mppt wind turbine controllers are a whole different beast.  even far different from solar mppt type devices.  power curves must be programmed into them for correct operation, and voltage clippers are used in many installs.  for a small mill, the cost would not be worth the gains. 

honestly, i'd buy either a ts-45/60 or a ghurd controller.  they will prevent overcharge from wind and or solar.  the ghurd is great because it has limitless dump functions based on number of mosfets used, though it isn't temperature compensated.  the ts-60 is temp comped, though spendier, but a great piece of electronics!  i don't know what i would do without mine! 

grounding:  get one or two 8' x 5/8" coppers clad steel grounding rod(s).  if soft soil, drive them straight in, at ten??  foot apart, if rocky soil, drive them at a 45 degree angle.  basically get as much rod in the ground as you can.  you can use a third, 4th or 5th rod if you feel like you can't drive them very deep.  you can cut off what can't be driven, but sweat plenty with a sledge to get them as far as you can!  acorn clamps are used to hook the bare #4 to them.  don't worry about insulating the #4.  it should never be close to any neutral or hot wire anyways! 

adam

[Mastiffman]

most of the type of wind turbines found here are directly connected to the battery bank.  the charge controller also connects to the battery bank, and bleeds off excess juice to keep the battery voltage in check. 

mppt wind turbine controllers are a whole different beast.  even far different from solar mppt type devices.  power curves must be programmed into them for correct operation, and voltage clippers are used in many installs.  for a small mill, the cost would not be worth the gains. 

honestly, i'd buy either a ts-45/60 or a ghurd controller.  they will prevent overcharge from wind and or solar.  the ghurd is great because it has limitless dump functions based on number of mosfets used, though it isn't temperature compensated.  the ts-60 is temp comped, though spendier, but a great piece of electronics!  i don't know what i would do without mine! 

grounding:  get one or two 8' x 5/8" coppers clad steel grounding rod(s).  if soft soil, drive them straight in, at ten??  foot apart, if rocky soil, drive them at a 45 degree angle.  basically get as much rod in the ground as you can.  you can use a third, 4th or 5th rod if you feel like you can't drive them very deep.  you can cut off what can't be driven, but sweat plenty with a sledge to get them as far as you can!  acorn clamps are used to hook the bare #4 to them.  don't worry about insulating the #4.  it should never be close to any neutral or hot wire anyways! 

adam

 Great explanation. Thanks.

 Update: So I got weverything wired up and monitored and had some decent winds as well yesterday. I even went out last night before the storm and got a Nice Klein Tools CL2000 Mulitmeter with clamp that can test upto 400 DC Amps... I tried using a series conncetion with the cheap $7 Harbor Freight multimeter that goes upto 10 amps to test the amperage during good winds and it was showing me some rediculously Low amps. So I wasn't able to properly use the Klein CL2000 until today when I pulled the Turbine down and took it inside for testing...

 I kept the 16awg leads at 3ft and connected them to the Diode which is connected to the battery bank + terminial and the - Terminal to the - Battery bank Terminal. Voltmeter to monitor voltage coming from the Turbine motor and the Kleins Amp Clamp Around the + lead coming from the Turbine to the Diode on the Batt Bank.

 Used a powerdrill on Speed 2 to spin the shaft of the turbine and I couldn't get this thing ANY Higher than about 2.2amps...

 I just don't get it. How can an Ametek DC motor Rated for only 1 amp as a Motor produce such high Current but this Motor Rated fro 1.6amps Can't? I"m I mising something like a typical Newbie?

 The Chart that I posted in my "Wire Size for wind Turbine Thread" here: http://www.fieldlines.com/index.php/topic,146915.msg1010129.html#msg1010129
 Shows a Max "Power Transmission Amperage" of only 3.7a for 16awg wire. BUT for Chassie wiring has a 22a Max? What is the difference and should I be replacing the 16awg or at least shotening it to only a few inches?

 Okay, figured this part as I think that what you guys were saying before was that Short length of 16awg wouldn't matter as it's all about ohms. So, Chassie wiring can only be described as Short lengths of Wire and power Transmission is more along the lines (no punn intended) of house wiring or long distances of "Power Transfer"...

 but still not sure on the difference between the motors.. Is it because of the gage wire used in the coils inside?

 Let the Flaming begin!? 

[birdhouse]

i wouldn't blame the short chunks of #16.

motors are meant to be fed by electricity to turn.  when we start turning them to create electricity, they don't always do what we expect.  ratings also fluctuate.  one motors rating could be based on peak at start up, while another's could be rated at running amps. 

it sounds like the motor you've got just isn't cut out for wind. 

a 1/2 hp varaible speed blower motor out of a newer furnace might be a good thing to try next. 

adam

[Mastiffman]

i wouldn't blame the short chunks of #16.

motors are meant to be fed by electricity to turn.  when we start turning them to create electricity, they don't always do what we expect.  ratings also fluctuate.  one motors rating could be based on peak at start up, while another's could be rated at running amps. 

it sounds like the motor you've got just isn't cut out for wind. 

a 1/2 hp varaible speed blower motor out of a newer furnace might be a good thing to try next. 

adam

 Would it possibly be worth pulling the motor apart and properly rewiding the coils?

 Now that I understand the processes a little better I don't think that I'd even waste my time with anything under 1hp...

[gww]

Mastifman
If you are willing to rewind a motor then the hassel and time comnsuming that made you not want to build a charge controller will probly be there. If you add solar you will probly need two charge controllers or a very big dump load.  If I were to rewind a motor I would probly build a hugh piggott or otherpower turbine as the work involved has to be simular.

These are just my thoughts as I am a first timer also and don't really have anything flying.  I do have a couple hugh turbines built and have played with a couple motor type turbines on short test stands.  Also you description or you turbine being below the trees sounds like some of my stuff.  Works better in the winter time.  I once had two ceiling fan convertions that gave me about what you are getting with one motor.  ha ha
gww

PS
I did just build a ghurd controller.  tested but not in use yet.  not too bad though.  If you need help I can tell you what dummies need to ask before doing it as I am a dummy but got it done.  just ask

[Mastiffman]

Mastifman
If you are willing to rewind a motor then the hassel and time comnsuming that made you not want to build a charge controller will probly be there. If you add solar you will probly need two charge controllers or a very big dump load.  If I were to rewind a motor I would probly build a hugh piggott or otherpower turbine as the work involved has to be simular.
gww

 I will do what is needed. I just have a Lot of things going at the moment and don't like doing what is Not Neccessary. I try to practice Not Wasting time as frequently as possible. But if time consumption is neccessary then so be it. I Don't need to build a charge controller if there are some available for a reasonable price that will accomplish the tasks needed. If I'm going to Wind anything, I may as well start with resources available.

 Back to my question about being worth it... Is it Possible to make the motor that I have, produce the amps neccessary to charge a 12v battery bank properly and effieciently if I rewound the coils?

[birdhouse]

maybe. 

though it's a tiny motor.  i wouldn't waste the time on it!  you may get a whopping 5A out after the rewind.  there's only so much space in there, and less turns of heavier wire will give you possibility of pushing more amps, but not enough volts for cut in.

look at three phase motors  some of them are BIG and weigh upwards of 70lbs.  or look into building a axial from hughs book.   either of those options would be time better spent IMHO. 

adam

[fabricator]

Personally, IMHO that motor needs to go in the hopper, if you want usable power you need large magnets and pounds of copper.
That motor is an elementary school science project toy.
do a search here for DC motors or stepper motors, there are lots of guys getting real power out of these, they are much bigger and hold bigger magnets and more copper and that is what makes electricity.

[Mastiffman]

Personally, IMHO that motor needs to go in the hopper, if you want usable power you need large magnets and pounds of copper.
That motor is an elementary school science project toy.
do a search here for DC motors or stepper motors, there are lots of guys getting real power out of these, they are much bigger and hold bigger magnets and more copper and that is what makes electricity.

Fab,

  I do understand your point. This is A "DC Motor" but was unfortunately one of those that was wound with thin copper a lot to make great voltage but very small current. The  Ameteks must have been wound with larger wore to create their coils. How was I to know? Oh well lesson learned..... 

 I have been looking at DC servo motors but I'm not finding any that are around the  10rpms/ volt (1800rpm's/ 180v) like I'm most likley going to need or less. And any that are close are well into the multiple hundreds of dollars...

 I'll check some out and see what I can come up with cause this motor isn't worth bent di... well ya know.. lol

 

[lakesidepark]

I don't know if it is possible to find a good used DC servo motor of a size that would make useable power.

Most DC servo motors went out of production in 1987 for robotic / CNC applications. Further, all the DC servo motors I have seen have a commutator and brushes - bad for weather exposure, lots of maintenance. Any motor with significant use will have had the commutator ground a few times in the past, and of course, you would have to source brushes for regular replacement.

Why not AC PMA servo and rectifier? Much easier to find. And no wear parts. Usually scrapped due to encoder failure or retrofits, which means nothing to us.

[Mastiffman]

I don't know if it is possible to find a good used DC servo motor of a size that would make useable power.

Most DC servo motors went out of production in 1987 for robotic / CNC applications. Further, all the DC servo motors I have seen have a commutator and brushes - bad for weather exposure, lots of maintenance. Any motor with significant use will have had the commutator ground a few times in the past, and of course, you would have to source brushes for regular replacement.

Why not AC PMA servo and rectifier? Much easier to find. And no wear parts. Usually scrapped due to encoder failure or retrofits, which means nothing to us.

 These are actually what I've been noticing that are plentiful online... And I also windered about the encoder... So I wouldn't need that. How would I go about turnign one of these into a Turbine Genny? Any special mods needed?

 Thanks.

[Mastiffman]

look at three phase motors  some of them are BIG and weigh upwards of 70lbs.  or look into building a axial from hughs book.   either of those options would be time better spent IMHO. 

adam

Do a search here for DC motors or stepper motors, there are lots of guys getting real power out of these, they are much bigger and hold bigger magnets and more copper and that is what makes electricity.

 What do you guys think of this DC motor? It's 180 Dc Volts @ 1750rpms... That's under 10rpm/ Volt. it would only need about 180rpms for a 12v BB.....

http://toledo.craigslist.org/for/3131680698.html
 What kind of Blades woudl I be looking at needing for a machine like this to produce? or a link to figure it would would be fine. I live in a Class 2 wind region. lately it's been between 10-15mph in the last few weeks and gets crazy winds in the spring and fall.

 The owner that listed it for sale compared it to this one and said that his was never used....?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSTON-GEAR-dc-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-PM18150TF-B-HP1-5-180V-7-7AMP-RPM1750-CLASS-F-NEW-/300614298930?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fe022d32

[Mastiffman]

 Was just wondering if the process for this is still the best to go with from these Videos....?

 Has there been any updates to increase efficiency of the Home Built Turbine Motor?

 Thanks.
Winding the Coils:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bseit46ezOo&feature=g-vrec

Casting the Coils into the Stator:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-YxsElPCgs&feature=BFa&list=ULbseit46ezOo

 Building the Rotor Assy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ahs2pM10xQU&feature=BFa&list=ULJ-YxsElPCgs

[gww]

Mastiffman
I always thought the vidio lincs you posted were some of the cleanest ones on building an altinator.  I personally think hughs 2003 plan is the clearest of all although in his new book he has cleaned up things that I had problems with when building that plan.
1.  his new plans makes it much easyer to get the stator mounts square with the rotor.
2.  His new plan has more powerfull altinators and probly better blade matching.
I believe looking at those vidios helps clarify what the plan is showing you, however I like having something in my hand that I can refer to while I'm actually doing the work.  Some times I have to look at it 15 times a minite as I can't remember for two seconds what I have seen.  I will say that I built mine with a very minimum of tools.  drill, skill saw (metel and wood cutting blade), jig saw, angle grinder and cheap harbor freight welder.  For the blades I used saws-saw or chain saw,  electric hand planer and electric sander.  I hate making blades and it takes me a good two days to make a set of medioker blades.  It takes about a week and a half to two to make the turbine after you have gethered the stuff.  It aint that bad. 
Hope this helps
gww

PS
The last two I made I didn't have the angle grinder so I used the skill saw as a grinder.

[Mastiffman]

Mastiffman
I always thought the vidio lincs you posted were some of the cleanest ones on building an altinator.  I personally think hughs 2003 plan is the clearest of all although in his new book he has cleaned up things that I had problems with when building that plan.
1.  his new plans makes it much easyer to get the stator mounts square with the rotor.
2.  His new plan has more powerfull altinators and probly better blade matching.
I believe looking at those vidios helps clarify what the plan is showing you, however I like having something in my hand that I can refer to while I'm actually doing the work.  Some times I have to look at it 15 times a minite as I can't remember for two seconds what I have seen.  I will say that I built mine with a very minimum of tools.  drill, skill saw (metel and wood cutting blade), jig saw, angle grinder and cheap harbor freight welder.  For the blades I used saws-saw or chain saw,  electric hand planer and electric sander.  I hate making blades and it takes me a good two days to make a set of medioker blades.  It takes about a week and a half to two to make the turbine after you have gethered the stuff.  It aint that bad. 
Hope this helps
gww

PS
The last two I made I didn't have the angle grinder so I used the skill saw as a grinder.

 Gotcha. Thanks for the suggestions.

[sean_ork]

 What do you guys think of this DC motor? It's 180 Dc Volts @ 1750rpms... That's under 10rpm/ Volt. it would only need about 180rpms for a 12v BB.....

kids here pull those out of the dumped motorized treadmills, add a couple of 20" blades and they get 200w @ 14.2v out of them in a good wind - great for keeping long battery operated electric fences alive

no good at all in low winds, and needs a short pair of blades to get it spinning fast

[Mastiffman]

 What do you guys think of this DC motor? It's 180 Dc Volts @ 1750rpms... That's under 10rpm/ Volt. it would only need about 180rpms for a 12v BB.....

kids here pull those out of the dumped motorized treadmills, add a couple of 20" blades and they get 200w @ 14.2v out of them in a good wind - great for keeping long battery operated electric fences alive

no good at all in low winds, and needs a short pair of blades to get it spinning fast

 Nice!

[Mastiffman]

 What do you guys think of this DC motor? It's 180 Dc Volts @ 1750rpms... That's under 10rpm/ Volt. it would only need about 180rpms for a 12v BB.....

kids here pull those out of the dumped motorized treadmills, add a couple of 20" blades and they get 200w @ 14.2v out of them in a good wind - great for keeping long battery operated electric fences alive

no good at all in low winds, and needs a short pair of blades to get it spinning fast

 Check this guy out... 24Vdc @ 165 Rpms @ 8amps... ?That's Not to bad!? It's a Baldor DC motor... it would only need 85-90 rpms to charge a 12v Battery Bank.

 If that is becasue of a Gearbox on the front of it would it still be okay to us like that?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALDOR-DC-MOTOR-2-1-5-HP-TYPE-2424P-165-RPM-8-AMP-PSM-FRAME-2-BBR1087-/221014426260?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33757c8294

[sean_ork]

forget that - there's a 15:1 GB in front of it, you'd need big blades to get that spinning, very big

the same goes for adding gears and pulleys, so much is lost in the drivetrain

in your PM you mentioned that you'd used a set of Raptors

''Took only 61rpms to reach charging levels. But, no amps. Well limited anyway. Highest was around 3amps and that was with a 24v load and using a power drill to spin the shaft.''

How fast was your drill going get those 70 watts ? - if RPM was around 600 you just might be able to use those blades to build a trickle charge mill with, but I'd bet a pound to a penny that 95% of the time those blades will be spinning, but putting nothing into your battery - but given enough wind they will howl and then there's the potential for a couple of amps

the advantage we have here is wind, lots of it

I would never consider rewinding a standard motor, I know a few have with much larger frames but the time effort and hassle would be better spent putting together a small AF style mill

so, there's potential to make yourself a reasonable trickle charge mill to play with - but don't expect to be doing the Sunday roast with it's output

[Mastiffman]

forget that - there's a 15:1 GB in front of it, you'd need big blades to get that spinning, very big

the same goes for adding gears and pulleys, so much is lost in the drivetrain

in your PM you mentioned that you'd used a set of Raptors

''Took only 61rpms to reach charging levels. But, no amps. Well limited anyway. Highest was around 3amps and that was with a 24v load and using a power drill to spin the shaft.''

How fast was your drill going get those 70 watts ? - if RPM was around 600 you just might be able to use those blades to build a trickle charge mill with, but I'd bet a pound to a penny that 95% of the time those blades will be spinning, but putting nothing into your battery - but given enough wind they will howl and then there's the potential for a couple of amps

the advantage we have here is wind, lots of it

I would never consider rewinding a standard motor, I know a few have with much larger frames but the time effort and hassle would be better spent putting together a small AF style mill

so, there's potential to make yourself a reasonable trickle charge mill to play with - but don't expect to be doing the Sunday roast with it's output

 The blades are actually pretty nice. They would crank out the voltage needed but with such thin coil windings there wasn't enough amps...
 
I thought so with that GB...

[birdhouse]

this motor would make one BEEFY turbine!  maybe it will go for cheap!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fanuc-servo-motor-mdl-A06B-0166-B675-0016-/150864351491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2320375103#ht_500wt_1166

with a 28A rating, i'll bet with the right blade match, you could get over 1Kw out of it in high winds!

EDIT:  17A rating.  still good for over 500w. 

adam

[Mastiffman]

this motor would make one BEEFY turbine!  maybe it will go for cheap!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fanuc-servo-motor-mdl-A06B-0166-B675-0016-/150864351491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2320375103#ht_500wt_1166

with a 28A rating, i'll bet with the right blade match, you could get over 1Kw out of it in high winds!

EDIT:  17A rating.  still good for over 500w. 

adam

 Nice! I'll add that to my watch list!

[gww]

The little one that gives volts but not enough amps.  Many here may think I'm crazy but I actually trie and scrounge ways to keep them up.  I figure anything it gives helps the batteries and if you have solar and it helps the batt's from loseing charge overnight what the heck.  Of course you may not be able to stand failed projects all over the place.
gww

[Mastiffman]

The little one that gives volts but not enough amps.  Many here may think I'm crazy but I actually trie and scrounge ways to keep them up.  I figure anything it gives helps the batteries and if you have solar and it helps the batt's from loseing charge overnight what the heck.  Of course you may not be able to stand failed projects all over the place.
gww

 Nice!!! I know that you regualrs on this forum may see a lot of newbies that ask what may seem to be silly and logically answered questions and some that may do silly things... But replying to someone on a thread like this as GWW has is reall the way to think. In the short amount of time that I've been a forum memeber, I have seen more "belittling" and "Shot taking" at newer users that it makes me sick. I've never been one to take a typical "cheap shot" at someone just to try and get my point accross to them and "HELP" them understand what is really happening or has happened in any given event...

 So, thank you to Gww AND the rest of you guys on this thread that have been patient and helpful to me as well as other newer members! You are Valued members to this forum and to the community of renewable/ free energy! And I commend you for that!

 Gww, that is a decent Idea, but this unit really didn't put out enough voltage flying to even trickle charge a bank. Unfortunately...  I was able to attain the 2.75 to 3 amps by Cranking this thing Way past 45volts while attached to my 12v bank... So it wold be a good idea for this unit. But another yes.

 So if I'm in a class 2 region, with the servo motor that was linked to above, Is there any way to calculate the needed blades size or TSR for my 12v setup?

[gww]

I have no ideal if I am right and don't mind if I am corrected.  I am willing to learn.  If the 2000 min Is the rpm?  If the 134 volt is the voltage?  I don't know what 200 volt inverter means on the tag.  If the above is correct then you would have a little over 13 volts ac at 200 rpm.  I believe with hughs builds this puts this in the 8' tsr 7 range.  I am not skilled enough to know if other factors make this wrong.  If I had my hand on the motor I would turn It at sixty rpms and see what I was getting and go from there.
If I had this motor and no access to help this is what I would try and if it didn't work (quite possible)  I would make the blades longer or shorter based on results.  I always have to take the long way as I don't have the expereance to draw from, athough I get more daily.
If you relie on any of these sugestions I hope they help more then hurt.
Good luck
gww

PS 
I have a leason motor that is 120 volts and 1750 rpms 10 amp that I am going to put 8' blades on and if it makes cut in to high I'm going to switch to 6'.  I don't have it up yet cause I originaly put ten foot blades and a 6 to 1 pully system to use it on a 48 volt system.  It took a lot of wind to get moving but put out well. It bent my pole during a storm.  Oh well back to 12 volt.  I did have it on a test stand for a very short period with strait 8 foot 20 degree angle boards and it would get up to charging voltage.  blades cut on table saw.  Carved twisted blades are faster.  Your 180 volt should give more low wind performance if It doesnt stall the blades which I dought it will.

[gww]

180 volt one.   Maby 6' tsr 7 blades for a 24 volt battery bank.  Is this a five amp or ten amp motor?  Eight mph cut in.  Probly at the top you want for a zone two wind area.  same as mine.
gww

[Mastiffman]

180 volt one.   Maby 6' tsr 7 blades for a 24 volt battery bank.  Is this a five amp or ten amp motor?  Eight mph cut in.  Probly at the top you want for a zone two wind area.  same as mine.
gww

 Which one? The 95v or the 180v?

[Mastiffman]

Okay, Good News... .

 I won an auction tonight on eBay fro a Fanuc DC Servo Motor.

 Althoguh it's not the one suggested by Adam, It's still a dcent purchase a definite unit that will give me some good Voltage and Amps.
 
 Specs are 165v @ 1500rpms + 12 amps. Winning price was for $104.50+ $59.95 in shipping...

 The Other Fanuc Servo that was link to from this thread Sold about 17min after this one and the winning bid was $571 with $59.95 in shipping.

 So I think that I made the right choice for now. I'm looking at just over 9rpms/ volt. So that will give me a rough estimate of just under 165rpms cut-in speed. That's at 18v * .8= 14.4v

 I'm just not sure if my 65" blade sweep will be ample. The Last motor spun up to 12.6v but only put out around .7amps at that speed. 12.6v which was only about 40rpms. but open votlage reached 60-65v that day.... whihc is between 190 to 205rpms. So we'll see in a few days how this all will work...

 I'll keep ya posted....

[birdhouse]

is it a yellow cap one?  i don't think we've seen anyone use a yellow cap DC version of a fanuc for a wind genny yet.  hopefully it works well!

adam

[Mastiffman]

is it a yellow cap one?  i don't think we've seen anyone use a yellow cap DC version of a fanuc for a wind genny yet.  hopefully it works well!

adam

 Yes it is. Any reason why it hasn't been used? I'm assuming that it just hasn't been done and not for a performance reason... Hopefully. 

 Anyway, here's a couple of Photos of it.

 NOw I'll just need a tad bit of help wiring it. I take it that it will be a 3 phase setup. Any tips on this wiring?

[birdhouse]

i think those are single phase DC motor.  just a blocking diode needed for wiring.  there may also be a brake in the case that needs to be removed. 

i prefer not to use the original plugs on the motor.  the conductors are small, and there are a bunch of them that you have no use for.  while the case is open (if removing a brake) i found the main leads right off the motor, and soldered/wire nutted some thicker leads directly to the main motor winding leads. 

not too many folks (that i'm aware of) have used fanuc servos for wind gennys.  i've never seen a yellow top used.  not sure why?? 

if you google fanuc on this site, it should come up with my old posts.  there was also a guy in MI that had a few fanuc mills with some pretty amazing output numbers, though his towers seemed a bit scary! 

i was following a yellow top fanuc a while back.  IIRC it was something like 90A??  weighed over 150lbs....  i didn't go for cheap though!   

adam

[Mastiffman]

i think those are single phase DC motor.  just a blocking diode needed for wiring.  there may also be a brake in the case that needs to be removed. 

i prefer not to use the original plugs on the motor.  the conductors are small, and there are a bunch of them that you have no use for.  while the case is open (if removing a brake) i found the main leads right off the motor, and soldered/wire nutted some thicker leads directly to the main motor winding leads. 

not too many folks (that i'm aware of) have used fanuc servos for wind gennys.  i've never seen a yellow top used.  not sure why?? 

if you google fanuc on this site, it should come up with my old posts.  there was also a guy in MI that had a few fanuc mills with some pretty amazing output numbers, though his towers seemed a bit scary! 

i was following a yellow top fanuc a while back.  IIRC it was something like 90A??  weighed over 150lbs....  i didn't go for cheap though!   

adam

 Thanks for the tips Bird!

 I'll have to look at it when it arives. UNfortunaely the shipping is economy and says 4-10 days coming from Cali and I'm in MI. I'll pull the old lead and solder some new ones one. GOod Idea there... Single phase would be nice as my setup is alreayd wired for it. BUt I will make the necc. changes if needed. Yeah, I'm hopeing this thing will produce well in either way. It will at least give me an okay start. I know that it's not the highest amps but it will suffice for now until I can hunt down a better servo motor. Or build a AF Turbine.

 I saw a 60 amp last night while waiting for the auction to end and it was a few thousand dollars. Some people are asking 25k for some of these motors. In Fact I found the same model as mine again on ebay for $1500. It crossed my mind to sell it if I could get $500- $1000 for it and put that towards a higher amp unit. But maybe the "Bumble Bees" revisions aren't used becasue they are a bit lower in Amps... Just a thought.