more table saw blades

[HenryVG]

The goe222 blades that we made last year we're 60i. Dia and had to be cut down to get the cutin speed on the garbogen they were mmounted on. So we started a couple new experimental sets...both with a 20 degree tilt of the profile and 24 and 30 in. Lengthsfor the blades the second set took 60 min from lunber to sanded blade!. Ill update wnen we get them mounted and tested.

[HenryVG]

for this. One is two finished blades and one with the slots cut in it and spray-painted for depth, the other is just a single after a short sanding.

[oztules]

Nice system for this style of blade.... not sure I would get all the stations correct though, but a nice example of using the saw bench in a different way than is thought usual.

Good thing I reckon.

.............oztules

[electrondady1]

it seems  a very slick method

[gww]

I wish I could understand a little better how you are using the table saw to shape the blades.  I could use a one hour blade making method.
Thanks
gww

[Frank S]

Gww you set your blade at the height desired for the first cut and your back stop make a full length cut stopping just short of the mounting end re set the blade and move the back stop the width of the blade or just a bit more continue doing this until you have done the full width of the blank. then remove the blank strip away  any thin strip that remain then with a draw knife or belt sander finish the profile
 The table saw is only removing the major excess to allow you to get to the finished profile much easier.
 Doing a compound curvature profile  like an air-boat prop is a bit more involved but uses the same principle
 Radial arm saws can be used as well in some ways a radial saw is more versatile  as you can see your work while cutting  Also with a radial saw if you decide to drag your blank side ways to the saw blade you can cut micro profiles the length while raising or lowering the saw blade and moving the saw out or in as you advance the work  The key is not to make your cuts too deep

[Frank S]

I cannot see but a 1/4 of the second image but my previous post was how I have made air-boat props in the past but I had a rotary shaper with a sanding drum installed that used a full sheet of sand paper

[HenryVG]

GWW- Frank is describing perfectly. We did a couple small tweaks. I made an image of the profile at the desired rotation in a textbox that was 1.5x 3.5 (about 3 fit on a sheet of paper) We cut one out and tape it (lots of tape) to the end of one of the boards (2 by 4s in our case). We leave the end sides of the profile uncut to support the board while we make our other cuts. So we started cutting about 1/4" in from one side, ripping the whole board up to the root (as Frank said, we used a stop to keep the board from going all the way and this left the root full thickness-in our case, it was a sawhorse with a piece of plywood screwed to it so the board ran into it at the end of the cut, then we'd lift it up).
To set the height for each cut, Dan would push the board on the running blade until the top of the blade was at the taped-on profile at the end of the board. He would then slowly raise the blade until I told him to stop (when it touched the line of the profile). Then we would rip each board all the way to the stop. Since the fence stop, the length stop and the blade height were already set, running the other two blade blanks through was just a matter of pushing them through).
Then we move the fence over about a blade width and repeat.
Once the cuts are all made, we spray the grooves with black paint and then just sand them down until the paint is gone.

If your blade profile requires a taper or twist, this probably won't work for you, but for a straight blade it's easy.

[gww]

frank and henry
Thank you for the explination.
gww

[fabricator]

I just made a set fora 12 foot rotor myself, it's very simple, the easiest way is to use a small length of the blank you are using and use that to set the depth, do the deepest cut first then you just need to back off on the depth setting every time and check it with your short piece.

[fabricator]

BTW, I used laminated veneer lumber (LVL) from menards, to get to get a 10 degree AOA

[niall2]

very nice...

the waste wafers look like their ready to just fall off with all the parallel straight cuts ....

how did the laminated veneer lumber help with the angle ?...they look ready to go as they are

seems an interesting way to make wood blades ..... 

[fabricator]

You can't get 10 degrees out of regular lumber without lamination, you need 1.75" thick to get 10 degrees for blades that have a 6.25" chord.

[birdhouse]

do you really think lvl is a good blade material as far as weathering?  it's basically exterior plywood. lammed into various sizes for load bearing situations. 

any plans to seal it well? 

adam

[niall2]

a big block of cedar might machine down really well......soft yes ...but cuts really well...

so light and strong ....its almost ridiculous for blades...

[gww]

Fabricator thanks for the pics.  What would the tsr be on a ten degree constant angle blade be?
gww

[fabricator]

Of course, several coats of primer sealer and a top coat of polyurethane.

[fabricator]

Fabricator thanks for the pics.  What would the tsr be on a ten degree constant angle blade be?
gww

Right around 6 I believe.

[Bluevitz-RS]

Is there a printable version of the profile to trace out on the wood?

[gww]

fabricator
Thank you
gww

[electrondady1]

just google

[Bluevitz-RS]

cool thanks

[bcalmed]

Is there a printable version of the profile to trace out on the wood?

Don't forget the angle of attack, which is NOT shown in electrondady1's pic. The (sort of) standard angle for the GOE222 is 10 degrees - see attachments.

[keithturtle]

Here's how I "dial in" the fence in a different application.   I also have another old table saw set up with threaded rod jackscrews on the fence (no pic) that gives me much wider travel, although I have to keep moving the magnet-mounted indicators.

Works OK

Turtle

[Bluevitz-RS]

Is there a printable version of the profile to trace out on the wood?

Don't forget the angle of attack, which is NOT shown in electrondady1's pic. The (sort of) standard angle for the GOE222 is 10 degrees - see attachments.

So for low wind would I just add a few ° of angle?

[fabricator]

I'm spoiled, I've got one of these, no measuring, just slide one of the graduated strips under the cross hairs and have at it. http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_TS_LS_Table_Saw_Fence_32_Range_p/ls32-ts.htm

[windy]

HenryVG,

 Glad to see you tried making some blades using the table saw method. I used this method to make my 10 foot long GOE222 profile blades. A little tougher keeping the blade flat on the table while cutting, but it did work.
 I left the AOA at 0 degrees, as these blades are going on a variable pitch assembly. The blades can be pitched to whatever angle I want.
 The blades are made of laminated basswood with two layers of 8oz fiberglass, vaccum bagged.  They are stiff enough that I can set both ends on sawhorses and sit on the middle of the blade with very little deflection. I weight around 170 lbs. Each blade weighs 21 lbs.
 Below are a few pictures.

windy

[Bluevitz-RS]

Next noob question... would this profile work for a small VAWT?  like a small 5 blade maybe 3ft tall 1.5-2 ft in Dia.

[keithturtle]

http://www.vawts.net/index.spark?aBID=125317&p=1  might have your answer.   It depends on what "works" means to you.  Six square feet of swept area doesn't have much power available to harvest.

If you want a collection of airfoils check here     http://www.worldofkrauss.com/

Turtle

[tecker]

On the upwind side of a VAWT cycle this foil will drag slightly . I will have to try some VAWT blades with the table saw. The tear drop foil
Darius blades are identical in shape top and bottom so one should be able to duplicate the curve here on both sides  . I'll try some like that anyhow first run. 2x8 will make a good core with a single fiber lam building up the led curve and trailing to an extended edge.