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Sump Pump Duty Cycle (my basement is wetter than yours)
dbcollen:
just turn off the pumps and have an indoor swimming pool :)
ghurd:
--- Quote from: 12AX7 on April 09, 2013, 10:10:27 PM ---Well.. I need a basement.
then have about 6ft of flexible hose (1 1/4 id) and it's then connected to a 1 1/4OD pipe thru the wall. Although there's about 6ft of hose, the total lift can't be more than 4 ft.
I think I'm wasting power by having more hose (water volume/weight) than what's really needed, or am I just picking at nits?
One of the reasons for the length of hose is to take up the torque (back lash) in the pump's start up. It's recoil is almost 1/8 turn(rotation), and hard PVC frequently would crack or the rubber right angle connector would loosen up (and that's a BAD thing!)
--- End quote ---
My folks need a basement too. Furnace, woodburner, water heater, washer, dryer, planner, joiner, etc.
Put it underwater, and it costs a lot to replace.
Define "flexible hose (1 1/4 id)".
The cheap black stuff that looks like... a spring? wastes a LOT of power.
"or the rubber right angle connector would loosen up"
Strange. Mostly because a rubber right angle connector is so expensive, but it is not as good, usually.
A long 90 degree PVC elbow is better in every respect, usually.
"hard PVC frequently would crack"
Strange. I have a lot of experience with them, and I never saw that happen.
If it was me, I would get rid of any cheap black corrigated pipe, tight 90' turns, 90' turns unless very very wide...
and make the pipe larger diameter (2").
G-
12AX7:
--- Quote from: ghurd on April 11, 2013, 09:33:17 PM ---
--- Quote from: 12AX7 on April 09, 2013, 10:10:27 PM ---Well.. I need a basement.
then have about 6ft of flexible hose (1 1/4 id) and it's then connected to a 1 1/4OD pipe thru the wall. Although there's about 6ft of hose, the total lift can't be more than 4 ft.
I think I'm wasting power by having more hose (water volume/weight) than what's really needed, or am I just picking at nits?
One of the reasons for the length of hose is to take up the torque (back lash) in the pump's start up. It's recoil is almost 1/8 turn(rotation), and hard PVC frequently would crack or the rubber right angle connector would loosen up (and that's a BAD thing!)
--- End quote ---
My folks need a basement too. Furnace, woodburner, water heater, washer, dryer, planner, joiner, etc.
Put it underwater, and it costs a lot to replace.
Define "flexible hose (1 1/4 id)".
The cheap black stuff that looks like... a spring? wastes a LOT of power.
"or the rubber right angle connector would loosen up"
Strange. Mostly because a rubber right angle connector is so expensive, but it is not as good, usually.
A long 90 degree PVC elbow is better in every respect, usually.
"hard PVC frequently would crack"
Strange. I have a lot of experience with them, and I never saw that happen.
If it was me, I would get rid of any cheap black corrigated pipe, tight 90' turns, 90' turns unless very very wide...
and make the pipe larger diameter (2").
G-
--- End quote ---
Hello ghurd..
The hose (1 1/4ID) is not that cheap flexible spiral hose. This is smooth wall, thick and heavy. And I did do away with the rubber right angle adapter. The outlet of the pump is 1 1/4 so I don't think a 2in hose/pipe would help. The id of the check valve is a bit smaller than 1 1/4, and the pipe that runs thru the wall is really the main restriction, it's an old heating oil fill pipe and it's OD is 1 1/4 and I can't say for sure what it's ID is.
Oh.. forgot one important item.. reason for needing a basement..
Darren73:
Not sure of the lay of your land so unsure if any of these options are feasible.
1, If the lowest point on your property is below your basement could you install a siphon system to drain some of the water away?
2, Could you use the flow of the river through a venturi pump to suck some of the water away?
3, Minimise the distance the pump has to move the water, by this I mean let gravity do some of the work if possible, it can be more efficient to pump the water up a little higher and discharge it into a larger pipe that naturally falls toward the drain than pump it all the way to the drain.
Also while I appreciate your pump only has an outlet of 1.5" using a larger hose reduces the back pressure the pump has to work against to overcome the friction loss in addition to the real head. by increasing the pipe work size depending on the pump curve it may increase the outlet flow, reduce power consumption or even a combination of the two.
Hope some of the above is of help, I used to have a pumped system for a pit in my garden, however by a little lateral thinking and some careful installation I now have a siphon system that uses no pumps or power, just an occasional priming with a garden hose if the siphon gets an airlock in it.
12AX7:
--- Quote from: Darren73 on April 12, 2013, 02:52:26 PM ---Not sure of the lay of your land so unsure if any of these options are feasible.
1, If the lowest point on your property is below your basement could you install a siphon system to drain some of the water away?
2, Could you use the flow of the river through a venturi pump to suck some of the water away?
3, Minimise the distance the pump has to move the water, by this I mean let gravity do some of the work if possible, it can be more efficient to pump the water up a little higher and discharge it into a larger pipe that naturally falls toward the drain than pump it all the way to the drain.
Also while I appreciate your pump only has an outlet of 1.5" using a larger hose reduces the back pressure the pump has to work against to overcome the friction loss in addition to the real head. by increasing the pipe work size depending on the pump curve it may increase the outlet flow, reduce power consumption or even a combination of the two.
Hope some of the above is of help, I used to have a pumped system for a pit in my garden, however by a little lateral thinking and some careful installation I now have a siphon system that uses no pumps or power, just an occasional priming with a garden hose if the siphon gets an airlock in it.
--- End quote ---
Hello..
The lowest part of our yard currently has the river flowing over it. I don't believe that any sort of river current driven device/pump would pump a significant amount of water (no enough to make a difference).
Years ago I thought of installing a "run of river water wheel" to run a generator to supply power for the sump pumps. To much canoe traffic and fisher persons to risk it.
I've decreased the pumping distance as much as I can, the pump lifts the water about 5 1/2 ft total, and from there it runs thru (gravity) a buried 6in pvc pipe to a few feet from the river.
Just checked the kill-a-watt meter online so far 95hrs and 37.5kwhs. Pump almost running continuously. I'm surprised that it's float switch has lasted so long. I installed this pump over three years ago.
note again, this is just one pump. Second pump cycles about 1once every 5 min.
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