Author Topic: Making Aluminum Blades  (Read 21156 times)

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Yianie123.

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Making Aluminum Blades
« on: June 04, 2014, 09:52:03 AM »
Hello again.  Really glad that this forum exists.  I am really interested in making aluminum blades.  I know about the wooden and fiberglass, but I have seen where cut aluminum is placed in a form, sometimes a pipe that has been cut long ways and used to press aluminum between the cut pieces.  Does anyone have any experience on this or another method.  I'm a firm believer in simple is not perfect, but perfect enough.

Flux

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2014, 11:02:22 AM »
I don't share your enthusiasm for aluminium in wind turbines. It has fatigue issues and a wind turbine is one of the world's best fatigue testing machines. What is certain is that it will fail, the only question is when.

Flux

Yianie123.

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2014, 11:43:12 AM »
I respect your opinion and I believe there have been issues with fatigue.  How many people experience this type of failure?  Do they last 1 year or 10 years?  Is it that everyone is under this belief or has it happened a million times.    There a many mahines that use fatigue heavily such as airliners.  Their wings flex hundreds of thousands of times.  I do respect your opinion, but I just need more facts to put more weight into the opinion that aluminum is a bad material for blades.

Flux

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2014, 12:02:32 PM »
Yes you are right, aircraft use aluminium alloys but they have enough experience and have done enough tests to know the fatigue life. Long before this life is reached such parts are replaced.

The problem with home built wind turbines is that you have little idea of the fatigue life. If the stresses are low enough then the life may not be an issue. Similarly if it is a small machine and is not operated near civilization then a blade failure may not be a serious problem. You know where your machine will be operating and can judge the effect of failure.

As long as the part is very over designed then service life could be ok. Be extra careful in a marine environment as corrosion can accelerate cracking.

Flux


kitestrings

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2014, 12:25:50 PM »
Y,

You might want to research Dunlite or Quirks.  They made a hefty 2 kW turbine with steel skin blades.  Had lots of fatigue problems.  Aluminum would likely be worse I'm afraid.

~ks

Yianie123.

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2014, 02:42:13 PM »
I have an enourmious respect for both of you.  It is so refreshing to challenge people and in return you recieive intellegent, well thought out reponses.  Thank you for allowing me to challenge you.

gizmo

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2014, 08:59:39 PM »
I think it depends on the blade construction. There's a member of my forum who sells the GOE222 profile in extruded aluminium, and they have been very reliable. The extrusion is very light, and has internal webbing to take a steel tube inserted to act as a spar. The aluminium is just to create the GOE222 profile, its the steel tube that gives it strength. The only problems have been where the builder cut corners with the steel tube and mounting, but never with the aluminium itself.

I would not use blades made from a single sheet of aluminium, even if it is bent to give a curved surface. Aluminium cracks easily if flexed. As a "skin" its fine, but needs to me mounted to a structural frame.

Glenn

tanner0441

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2014, 06:17:16 PM »
Hi

Aluminium for blades from a single form shape would have a very short life. I have played with blades made from PVC pipe of the same shape and having watched the distortion as as the turbine pivoted rapidly on the yaw bearing. Aluminium would have a life in hours not years, an aluminium skin on a steel brace with a honeycomb center is a complex shape and not really for home construction. Having spent a number of years welding aluminium I am not impressed with it as an engineering material. The only thing aluminium enjoys more than cracking is becoming very brittle and breaking, without warning. Thin stainless doesn't fair much better.

Brian


Yianie123.

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2014, 10:44:03 PM »
So, is the material of choice wood? Or something else.  I'm a mechanical engineer and wood is a excellent material, but how about the Chicago winters?  Accuracy of carving?  Just feels primitive.  Comments?

Frank S

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2014, 12:33:58 AM »
Wood has a natural cellular grain structure that allows it to possess a long fatigue cycle life. That said not all wood is equal + its natural fatigue life can be greatly enhanced by laminating several strips reversing the grain direction but not placing in in cross grain such as plywood is manufactured.
 The bonding agent must be such that it will both flow into the pores and retain a near match to the cellular flex of the parent materials
 
  When talking about aluminum extrusions, again just like types of wood not all are created equal. many Companies that do extruding use a high %age of cast aluminum smelted down into ingots these are added   into the Calderon to reduce the final cost. The best extruding companies to have blades made from would be those who manufacture Aircraft parts & sail boat masts.
  Titanium alloy would have a high strength to fatigue life ratio but PRICEY.
  Stainless steel blades should be of more than 1 alloy of SS  or milled  from  solid bar stock keeping the center core of the stock as near the center of the blade structure as possible Just like aircraft parts are made 
 Composites may ultimately be the best way to make blades.
  This is just information I have compiled from researching materials that hundreds of guys & companies have used to make their blades. One group of students a few years back used carbon graphite/ fiberglass/ wood & ultra high density foam to make the blades for a hovercraft they were building.
 Eventually when I get ready to make a set of blades I am leaning towards a set of carved wood laminate with a fiberglass or carbon wrap placing the cloth on at a skewed angle     
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Yianie123.

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #10 on: June 06, 2014, 09:11:20 AM »
Have anyone considered making blades from the new type of decking wood.  I guess it may be a composite, or polymer wood.  Its supposed to be weather and rot resistant and I guess its workable just like wood would be.  May be interesting to find out if anyone has experience building and using it as blades.

SparWeb

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2014, 02:39:47 PM »
Yianie,
How about Calgary winters?  My wood blades are fine.  I have used western red cedar for both sets of blades I've made.  The next set of blades I make will probably be wood, too.

The question of materials goes around a lot.  It's a lot like asking "how long is a piece of string?".  You can answer any way you like, if you need one thing or another thing.

As a mechanical engineer, you already know that the grade and temper of aluminum greatly affect every property of the material, from strength to fatigue life, to workability to corrosion resistance.  In the blade of a wind turbine you need all of these properties to be good, or the blade won't last. 

Now ask: where does all this material come from?  Do the extruded blades in super-cheap windmills come from a factory with high standards of quality control and supply management?  Probably not.  These blades come from overseas with no paperwork and no guarantees.  You get what you pay for. 

Aluminum is perfect for aircraft, not only because of its excellent structural properties, but also because the entire supply chain backs up every step in the quality control process, and in my experience the process even errs on the safe side often enough to supply materials that are stronger than they have to be.  Taking that raw material into a careful, detail-oriented design environment, the finished product can do what is promised and fails when expected, 99.9% of the time.

This is a hobby, not an airplane factory.  Materials that are expensive (titanium, Frank?) hard to work with (carbon-fiber) or demand detailed quality control (aluminum) are suitable only in those cases that the hobbyist is willing and able to invest the time and money.  Otherwise, KISS.

If you are interested in the aluminum extruded blades that were mentioned above, I'd say they are worth a try, indeed.  In fact, I've seen some of these myself, and after many years of exposure to weather they did seem to hold up well.  Some have been in operation for a long time.  But you will have to bear in mind that these qualities could be undermined by any number of mistakes along the way: supplier substitutes a cheaper grade of Al without telling anyone, the extrusion dies not maintained and introduce flaws into the parts.  How would you know?  You are relying on an invisible quality control.  Usually it's acceptable.  Who's accountable if it's not?

In case everyone thinks I'm a big pessimist, I say they should go read accident investigation reports more often.  These seeds of doubt about every material should be in everyone's mind.  Then learn to live with the risk and manage it, either with skill, caution, or trust.
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Mary B

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #12 on: June 06, 2014, 03:26:16 PM »
There is a small wind turbine just outside town that flew for years with aluminum blades that were cut from tubing. Only reason it went down is a tree took out the tower in the 2011 tornado/straight line wind event

kitestrings

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #13 on: June 06, 2014, 04:00:20 PM »
Quote
So, is the material of choice wood? Or something else.

Well, it's one of my first choices.  Over the years I've seen a lot of blades in various conditions.  I think perhaps the most durable that I've seen were made by a couple of expert boat builders in ME (USA).  Goudgeon Brothers (probably misspelled).  They did a built up wood epoxy system - West Coast, I think - super nice finish; super strong.  Never saw a failure and they did 5- 60 kW units that I know of - over a couple decades.

Jim Sencenbaugh (CA, US) had started using wood core - Sitka spruce - in a heat shrink-wrap Dacron sock, with a glass finish for a harder surface.  I think it was called ceconite.

I think wood meets most of the needs if you sit down and list them.  Light, strong, resilient, easy to work with modest equipment and skills, low cost, readily available...  The leading edge takes tremendous abuse, so surface hardness can be one of the challenges.  Some folks have used copper/bronze flashing or blade tapes on the leading edge, or the outer most portion.   Keeping a good finish is key to longevity.

I should say SparW is usually not so gloomy, but I fell better about flying now ;).

~kitstrings

SparWeb

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #14 on: June 07, 2014, 01:01:59 AM »
Sorry for the downer, KS, I was having a very boring day.
This is much more interesting to think about.

I got out an old book that I keep because the ideas in it just always seem new.  J.E. Gordon, "Structures" for anyone who is interested by the stuff below.  This guy understood the design and construction of - everything.  He invented honeycomb panels, and while he seems too modest to admit it, I think he played a major role in the development of structural fiberglass materials.  In the book he wrote something that I will remember forever about choosing materials, and the relative merits of "old" materials versus "new" materials.

The book lists the relative "structural efficiency" of many common materials.  Here are a few examples below.  I've ordered them by "newness".  Starting with carbon fiber, only about 50 years old, and end with concrete, used extensively by the Romans.

Material    Stiffness (E)
Young's modulus
 (GPa)
Density (rho)
 (gram/cc)
Structural
 Efficiency
 E / rho
Cost of
production
(tons of oil, per ton)
Economic
Efficiency
 E / rho / cost
Carbon-fiber  200     2.0 100  100    1.0
Aluminum      73       2.8   26  6.0    4.3
Steel            210     7.8   27    1.5   18 
Spruce           14      0.5   28  0.03 933
Concrete        15      2.5    6    0.1    60 

I like to get out this table when I feel like shaking peoples beliefs about how "good" the "modern" materials of today are.  Every material can be chosen for its strength, or its lightness, or its cost, but often it's hard to picture how the factors relate to each other.  So why not try a simple division of one into the other? 

Carbon fiber starts out looking like a winner, but finishes badly as the worst in the list.  Why?  There is an enormous amount of energy invested in making it before it can be used.  Not only in the chemical factory but also at the shop using it, considering the storage (refrigerated) processing (climate control) waste (about 33%) and so on.

Metals are a bit better and it looks like they will be the dominant material of everyday technology for a very long time to come.

But standing above them all is wood.  For some reason, simple, humble wood can stand its ground, considering both the energy budget and the structural efficiency of its competitors.  The more the cost of oil goes up, the better wood looks.

I could have included plastic or fiberglass or silicon/boron fiber composites but the conclusion is about the same.  Perhaps for fun I could try to add carbon nanotubes (invented after JE Gordon's book was published) to the list, but I'm sure the cost would be staggering.

Gordon doesn't get into the recycling of the materials, a factor that gives metals an advantage, and makes carbon composite look even worse.  Wood comes out even in that regard because it can either be burned or sometimes re-used, but nature will always put the resulting waste to use.

The "invested energy" in any product can be an important consideration in its "greenness".  For instance, a wall made with steel studs, compared to the same thickness wall made with wood studs, compared to another wall made with structurally insulated panels (SIP)'s all have very different amounts of energy invested in their production, which would be taken into account in the evaluation of a LEED building for example.

We can do the same with our wind turbines.  Not all of us are greenie-weenies, but many of us do recognize the value of keeping our footprint on the earth as small as we can.  If we intend to build our DIY wind turbines with materials that have enormous amounts of energy embodied in their materials, and from them gain only a few kiloWatt-hours, then can we really say we are "saving energy" or "producing it ourselves"?

I realize, this is way more than you asked for, Yianie.

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Yianie123.

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2014, 08:21:25 PM »
With wooden blades, what kind of middle of the road wood to use and what is the maintenance?  Large windmills are fun, but taking them up and down is dangerious.  It there a type of wood commonly used? and what is the maintenance and expected life?

Harold in CR

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #16 on: June 08, 2014, 08:53:22 AM »

 For starters, look at this company that makes wooden blades.  I think, maybe, Chris Olson has a set on one of his shop made windturbines ?

 www.royalwindandsolar.com

 Then, figure out what you want and use their specs for your project, OR, buy a set from them and finish them yourself.

ChrisOlson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #17 on: June 08, 2014, 11:29:22 PM »
I have several sets of Royal GOE222's.  They work good and never had a failure yet.  Dave Brugge had a Royal blade fly apart after the laminations gave up though, so laminated blades can fail.

I've also carved 3.5 meter blades from clear heart Western Red Cedar boards using a NACA 4415 airfoil:







Absolutely zero problems with stability with quality Western Red Cedar lumber, as compared to lamination layups.  But clear heart Western Red Cedar has to be special ordered from one of two mills in British Columbia where it is sawed and planed and it is VERY expensive - roughly $500 for three 8 foot boards.  So it's not the stuff you want to practice making blades with.

joestue

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2014, 11:37:31 PM »
I for one do not understand why you would choose cedar.
Its great for splitting into fence posts, and roof shingles in my opinion.
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ChrisOlson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #19 on: June 08, 2014, 11:54:38 PM »
Cedar is lightweight and very strong compared to Douglas Fir or any of the other pines.  Those blades are on a 3.5 meter turbine that free-spins at 1,000+ rpm in high winds when the controller unloads it.  The extra weight and low density of pine won't stand up to the forces involved in that application.  Cedar does.

SparWeb

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #20 on: June 09, 2014, 01:44:01 AM »
If you haven't held a grade A cedar plank in your hand, but only roof shingles, then I understand your skepticism.  Yes, cedar can be split more easily that other woods, but if that is addressed (laminations, surface treatments, avoiding damage, etc.) then the structural properties of the wood are a great advantage. 

I don't think that cedar is stronger than douglas fir, as Chris asserts, but it definitely is less dense.  The lighter the blades are, the less stress there is in the whole blade structure.  Chris does a rather demanding thing to run his 12' blades so fast, so in his case he would need a high-strength wood for them to survive.  If it can stand that abuse, then my blades are over-designed.

No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
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Boondocker

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #21 on: June 09, 2014, 07:34:40 AM »
Chris,

Are the blades in the photo painted with POR-15?

ChrisOlson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #22 on: June 09, 2014, 09:35:04 AM »
Boondocker: no, those blades are painted with PPG Delstar/Delthane basecoat/clearcoat.

Spar: The cedar is definitely stronger and has higher tensile strength than fir.  I don't know about shear strength, but that's not really an issue with turbine blades.  There are several advantages to using cedar over fir:
-it will take more flexing than fir
-clear heart cedar dries more uniformly than fir with more consistent density thruout the plank.  This makes it possible to get the blade weights closer without balance weights, which reduces the stresses on the entire rotor assembly
- it is lighter weight than fir, which again reduces the stresses on the blade
- it seals better than fir which is important to keep moisture in the blade in, and moisture from the environment out

Most people use laminations to prevent stability problems (warping), and provide better weight matching between blades.  But I haven't seen where the laminations actually add any tensile strength for high-rpm operation.  The laminations will help with flexing some, but even then I just haven't seen where a laminated layup is any better than a single chunk of wood.  Most people use the laminations simply because it is really hard to find a knot-free plank to make a blade from, and you pay dearly for that kind of lumber.  I went with one piece because laminations can and do fail, especially near the trailing edge of the blade as the blade straightens out (takes twist out of it at high rpm), and a one piece blade almost eliminates that chance.

Those blades have been in operation for going on three years on that turbine, have took incredible abuse that no blade of similar weight would take, and no cracking, splitting or other failures.  The leading edge wear on the blade tips is almost negligible with the Delstar/Delthane (PPG's version of DuPont Imron).  So overall, I've been happy with that blade design and did quite a bit of research on what wood to use before I built them.  And Western Red Cedar came to the top of list on every requirement.  I ordered three planks from a local yard here and the sticker shock when the three true 2" thick boards came all wrapped in clear plastic was a little severe.  But it was a joy to work with carving the blades, compared to fir, because of the consistent density of the wood and its ability to be sanded to a super smooth finish and accurate airfoil with no "hard" spots from lamination glue or knots.

ChrisOlson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #23 on: June 09, 2014, 01:42:26 PM »
For folks interested in this stuff, and I had to dig this out of my notes, this is the mechanical properties of 12% moisture, clear heart grade Western Red Cedar:

specific gravity:     0.32
modulus of rupture (kPa) 51,700
modulus of elasticity (MPa) 7,700
work to maximum load (KJ/m^3) 40
impact bending (mm)  430
compression parallel to grain (kPa) 31,400
compression perpendicular to grain (kPa) 3,200
shear parallel to grain (kPa) 6,800
tension perpendicular to grain (kPa) 1,500
side hardness (N)  1,600


SparWeb

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #24 on: June 09, 2014, 09:28:45 PM »
Chris,
Could you also post your figures, from the same source, for Douglas fir?  Your numbers for cedar agree with mine, but I don't see how Douglas fir is weaker - unless you compare number for different moisture contents, which isn't fair.  For example, my sources allow over 40,000 kPa compression parallel to grain in DF.  I have the Forest Products Labs data (current) and ANC-18 (1950's) which both tell a different story for Douglas fir. 

(PS Try not to take this as criticism - I truly value seeing numerous sources of information - especially if they disagree with each other. I don't dispute the other claims of cedar vs. DF. )

No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
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ChrisOlson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #25 on: June 09, 2014, 10:57:40 PM »
I don't have anything on Douglas Fir - I got that from the mill where I got my cedar boards from.

Which is stronger is an anomaly.  In theory the Douglas Fir should be stronger, but in practice it isn't.  The cedar lumber is a naturally tight and straight grain with very few knots.  Douglas Fir can have pitch pockets in it, which weakens it.  The problem with most of the Douglas Fir you can get is that it comes from Washington and Oregon where it has been harvested every 40-50 years and they clear cut, slash burn, then let it regrow naturally.  To get tight grain lumber from Douglas fir, you have to get it from trees that are 200 years old.  So the comparisons aren't really applicable because getting consistent quality western red cedar is easy (although expensive).  While getting consistent quality in Douglas Fir isn't because of the type of trees it is sawed from.

I have made several sets of blades from Douglas Fir planks and I have yet to carve one that doesn't have a pitch pocket, or some other defect even in the clear vertical grain grades.  Those defects have be to fixed with bondoglass, and that makes the fir blades naturally less strong than is achievable with cedar.

SparWeb

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #26 on: June 10, 2014, 02:22:13 PM »
For future reference, you can get data from the Forest Products Laboratory, such as this:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/specific_pub.php?posting_id=17965&header_id=p

This is probably the best source of scientific data available to use (in North America). If you ever find a better one, I'd love to see!  Even so, there must be room for doubt in the admittedly "average" data that is given.  See my comments from the other day, for my opinion on material test values.


This is the "sales" info you may have been referring to:
http://www.realcedar.com/
They are more optimistic.

Having said all that, I still accept your concern about quality in the Douglas Fir that you've encountered in the past.  Comparing a fast-growing cedar (relatively speaking) to an old-growth Douglas Fir is not really fair.  Inspecting the wood before buying it, even going so far as to bring a moisture meter and a straight-edge, all steps I can take to make sure I'm getting the best I can.

It makes me feel better to bear in mind that the safety factor on the strength of my blades, even considering 100-year wind speeds and a runaway, is still about SF=2.
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
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Smithson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #27 on: June 10, 2014, 05:27:43 PM »
So Western Red Cedar is the first choice for making blades now?  I was thinking that Sitka Spruce (straight grain) was the top choice since the 1930's.  That's what Jacobs used.  How does Sitka Spruce compare to Western Red Cedar.  I can't get that comparison chart to go past the first page.
Thank you    Arch.   Ps. I saw somewhere that you could get knot free 8 foot Sitka Spruce for about 80 dollars.

ChrisOlson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #28 on: June 10, 2014, 08:20:38 PM »
Well, the Jacobs turbines with spruce blades had plenty of blade failures too.  That's whey they went to fiberglass in 1981 after CDC took control of the company.  Marcellus installed three 23-10 turbines in Unalakleet, Alaska in 1977 and not a single one of them survived their first Alaskan winter.  It only took two months and all three were bladeless.  Those turbines were retrofit with glass blades, made by a company in Minneapolis, and they are still running today.

There's two Jacobs turbines that used to have spruce blades within 45 miles of us - they are all bladeless and have been for years.  I bought a 23-10 and rebuilt it and flew it for awhile.  It was bladeless when I bought it, and it was installed in 1978 and lost its blades in 1986.  They used to use an asphalt-based paint on those blades, they had gotten rotten in only 8 years of service.  One broke above the root and was sticking in the ground at the base of the tower.  The severe vibration caused the remaining two to hit the tower and blew them off and bent the governor shafts, blew the snap ring off the hypoid gear in the gearbox and broke two gear teeth off.

Basically, I don't consider the Jakes with spruce blades to be much of a benchmark to measure anything by.

MattM

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #29 on: June 10, 2014, 09:17:16 PM »
If cost was the prime mover then we'd only see low efficiency designs.  In order to extract the most energy from the wind for your application it's pretty necessary to push up costs.  I'm sure there is never going to be a best choice for the whole industry because the actual application from one person to the next varies so much.

I myself experimented with steel and aluminum blades on free spinning mounts using sheet stock.  Steel in heavier gauges held up longer than thinner gauges.  Aluminum wasn't durable enough to survive strong winds.  It took five minutes to manufacture replacement blades on an automated brake.  Tapered blades took more time, but held up better.  By the time some of these gents build their wood blades they are in the dozens of hours.  Everything has costs to it.  Wood blade builders get much longer use out of each set.  But they will never be as fast to build as the metals ones.

MattM

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #30 on: June 10, 2014, 09:38:17 PM »
Here is the side profile of the best steel blades I was using.



They will eventually fatigue at the attachment point.  Using a tapered layout, wider material closer to the nose, helps dramatically.  Takes more time to layout and bend.  Very easy to manufacture matching blades.  Very consistent results.

The same blades in aluminum fold over - sometimes in the middle and not at the nose - under high winds.  Aluminum doesn't have the stiffness.  Once you crease aluminum it will break on that crease.

Smithson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #31 on: June 11, 2014, 12:51:56 PM »
This board could use a section where it lists the best parts for a wind turbine.  It's frustrating when you buy something to use later and then find out it is worthless.  I have the j hook turnbuckles,  heavy duty extension cord to drop down tower ( need SO I'm told), but fortunately only bought pine for blades.  Well it's only paper.

Chris:  Could those blades have failed because they tried to extend them to far.  Does 23/10 mean 23 foot blades?  I know they had to use two return springs on the blade actuated govenor and even add side facing because it was bigger than the original.  I started one of your design turbines.  Got the shaft and key way from surplus center.

Thanks.   Arch

ChrisOlson

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Re: Making Aluminum Blades
« Reply #32 on: June 11, 2014, 01:41:20 PM »
What I saw cause most of the failures on 23-10 Jakes was the fact that the blades were too flexible and many of them hit the tower and got destroyed.  The turbines in lower wind areas that didn't have tower strikes rotted very quickly and had blade failures.  They used an asphalt-based paint on them.  When I started looking for blades for the 23-10 that I rebuilt I found one set that was brand new that had been stored in the rafters in a barn for over 20 years out of the sun and weather.  They were painted with that asphalt paint but were totally rotten and no good.

Fir and pine is known to rot with age anyway, while cedar is pretty resistant to it.  But with the excessive rotting I've seen in Jake spruce blades, I think their sealing and paint treatment left a little to be desired.  They like to brag about the machine that Admiral Byrd took to the south pole and it was still running 20 years later and the blades looked very good.  But in the dry, cold air down there I could see that.  In the conditions we have, which vary from hot and wet to extreme cold in the winter, they don't stand up as well.