Homebrewed Electricity > Hydro
Floating Hydro Generator or ??
Bruce S:
Do a search for oztules, Nando or frackers.
One of them has in the recent past , built a hydro with similar water issues.
Sorry I couldn't be better help
The VID of the e-bike wheel was neat! Only think I would say is to remember that taking a volt reading unloaded only means it's working and not what the resulting output is going to be.
His next VID should be where he hooks up the output from the wheel with meter set to current, then to a semi-depleted battery . This will show an output of the unit "under load"
Best of luck!
Bruce S
PNW_Steve:
--- Quote from: Bruce S on January 24, 2016, 02:57:16 PM ---Do a search for oztules, Nando or frackers.
One of them has in the recent past , built a hydro with similar water issues.
Sorry I couldn't be better help
The VID of the e-bike wheel was neat! Only think I would say is to remember that taking a volt reading unloaded only means it's working and not what the resulting output is going to be.
His next VID should be where he hooks up the output from the wheel with meter set to current, then to a semi-depleted battery . This will show an output of the unit "under load"
Best of luck!
Bruce S
--- End quote ---
Thanks Bruce,
I understand the open circuit performance is not a good indicator of performance under load. I didn't get that far into the video..... For some reason all of those spoons neatly attached to the bicycle wheel struck my as funny... I couldn't stop laughing and missed a good bit of the video. Nothing wrong with the idea. It just tickled my funny bone.
I tinkered with my calculator a bit and if I got the math right: with a 20" rim and a 4mph water flow I should see around 132rpm on the water wheel. I read somewhere that the 26" e-bikes top out at around 10mph. That would be about 120rpm on the 26" wheel.
That makes me think that if I started with the 1000watt motor intended for the 26" e-bike and retrofit to a 20" rim that I would be at a good starting point to make it play.
Thanks for the direction on the other threads. I will take a look.
MattM:
So figure your 4 mph flow is 352 feet a minute. If you want 132 rpm then you need an 10" wheel at near maximum efficiency. Correct my quick calculations if you disagree.
352 feet divided by 132 rpm leaves 2.667 feet a minute tangential velocity. Diameter figures out just over 10" when you divide 2.667 by 3.14
MAL:
Hi steve,
I have been considering the same concept. I am on a slow moving river, about 4 or 5 mph...your flow looks much faster than that. My idea is to use two barrels connected end to end like a rolling pin...and if more tork is needed, I could add two more barrels in a twin axial design and so on until the tork is sufficient to run a good size axial flux generator. The precise Rpm would be achieved by using the proper gear ratio. I could theoretically create any tork and any RPM that I wanted, but I am no athority on the subject. I believe that I will be better off using 30 gallon barrels to achieve higher RPM. Instead of using metal blades you should consider using other barrels cut in sections...I believe the curved paddles will be more efficient and less costly.
The hard part for me has been deciding on how to design the generator. This site is full of great info and helpfull people, but it has been kind of overwhelming trying to choose the size and specs that I need to power my home.
Dave
MattM:
Your torque shouldn't vary much, considering it's a function of water flow velocity and the diameter of your waterwheel. Flow velocity should be relatively constant and you're more or less limited in paddle design by the Benz Limit. Once you figure your rotation rate you should be able to figure out surface of your paddling and water flow coupled to a modest efficiency factor and aim for a design within those parameters.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version