2nd Edition 6kW OzInverter build book/manual & PCB's.

[clockmanFRA]

2nd Edition 6kW OzInverter build book/manual and the Power board, Control board and Cooling board PCB's.  And yes number 3 option is for 60HZ.

 My thanks to 'Oztules' as always, crikey was it really 2015 when the OzInverter started.

The 2nd edition, June 2019, is a complete re-write, and shows several types of OzInverter builds using the latest PCBs etc.

The New book is A4 size, 92 pages, 34,000 words, which is jammed packed with info and 221 colour photos and 12 diagrams. This 2nd edition is explicit about the build process.

I have also added, with the originators permissions, other relevant Inverter progressions and concepts. Thanks to the guys on the Backshed Aus.

The 3 OzInverter PCB's are up-to-date, 2019, with an option 3, for the 60HZ version control board for our 60HZ 120vac USA friends, and the 2nd edition has a separate chapter for 120vac 60HZ.

I am offering 3 options for purchase through paypal, but please remember, As I have already said, “we are not a ‘charity' and we are not a ‘commercial concern' with this book & PCB's, we just want to help others “.

please see......... https://levivray.com/new-book--make-a-6kw-inverter.php 

The last photo of a 120vac centre tap block diagram drawing, is how the OzInverter splits the 240vac. I await Bruce S comments on that diagram.? No Bruce its not in the 2nd edition its an addendum sheet I am still thrashing out for clarification purposes, but your comments are always welcome.

[SparWeb]

Well Done!

[JW]

agreed too...

clockmanFRA asked and I approved

Im very open to this type of thing.

I wish we could have Hugh Piggott marketing here on the forum, and others too.

I am open to commercialization

JW 

[clockmanFRA]

Thank you SparWeb its been a long journey with a heck of a learning curve.
 Thank you JW, and thanks to Bruce.

I think this is the first publication that shows practical explanations and build guide for a truely powerful Inverter of the H Bridge design.

Many folk far more intelligent than I have contributed to this OzInverter, but information is scatterd across many RE/sustainability forums, so hence this book.

What the future brings is any ones guess, but at least this book will give builders a genuine 48vda to 240vac machine that can run there home, AC & DC couple at the same time, hold a steady HZ, and backcharge the batteries through the H Bridge when AC coupled. And best of all its very cost effective at about $600, even cheaper if used/second hand toroid's etc are used.

The book shows practical calculations for used/second hand toroids and photos of builds, its all in the book.

Even better i now have options to supply 3 bare board PCBs, The 24 FET power board, the control board and the cooling board. All of which are deliberately designed for through hole components, (exception is the PWM 8010 SMD chip). Extra wide tracks and good size solder pads and the silk screen as a painting by numbers process, ie the component values are printed on the PCB's.

I trust that this project is of some interest.

Leslie

[Bruce S]

ClockmanFRA;
I showed your 120Vac sided schematic to a few people here; (most of whom will share coffee, office space and chairs during our little Celebration this weekend). 
They really like the setup !!!
They're pretty interested in seeing the book version, I pointed them towards the posted website ( this one and yours). They make a ton more $$$ than I so no freebies for them! 
One is curious as to how well the 120Vac split will work out with his Tesla power wall.

I'll be a little busy for the next few days, but once our stations are setup will be showing it off to even more like minded people.

Cheers
Bruce S

 

[clockmanFRA]

Hi Bruce,

Thanks about that block diagram of the split phase.

Its all in the book, and the book is listed on all the world wide libraries data base with its own ISBN numbers.

All the PCB masks, component lists, silk screens etc,  are also published in the book at full size, so you can etch your own PCB's, and yes folk still want to, so the design is simple.

I doubt if I am around in 10 years, (folk asking me for a 10 year guarantee), but with this particular design of Inverter you can always refer back to the book and then etch new PCB boards if required, or wind a new toroid, etc etc.

The original point of the OzInverter was to get away from normal inverter manufacturers with their own specialised boards and their limited supply of parts.

As 'Oztules' said, "Looking good, now with just off the shelf components, we can finally make a real inverter  .... that is easy to fix as well .... utopia indeed for remote living , i don't think any other unit on the market can say that .... usually you have to replace propriety boards ... if you can get them."


Bruce, My 16 year old has just informed me that my 19 year old and Us Chum are travelling in Minnesota at present!.

Here is me rambling along about the OzInverter with a Utube vid, ..... my eldest took it and posted recently, but it was late in the evening, when young things come alive but sadly oldish folk like me are fatigued..... I made a howler regards the cables, what I should have said was that battery cables should be a minimum of 70mm/2 and internally 50mm/2.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s9B3RTF1QA

[Bruce S]

clockmanFRA;
I forwarded your u-tube posting on to them!

Cheers
Bruce S

[fred bloggs]

Hi Leslie

I have been watching your work on this for a number of years and I must say I am very impressed with what you have achieved so far, speaking as an Electrical Engineer!

Do you provide the daughter board for the PWM control chip (which only seems to be available as SMD) as well as the 3 main boards. (You mention this in your Utube vid!)

If yes I for one will be ordering the book with PCB's.

PS is the 5kW DC power supply still working, let me know if you want another one?

Best regards

Fred!

[clockmanFRA]

Hi Fred,

Thanks for your comments.

Yes still have that Eltec Norway charger, super sexy bit of gear, do you have another?  Dimitri my eco warrior local friend has is eye on it.

Its excellent for total off gridders that have insufficient PV charging sources, as that Eltec charger can take a rubbish generator 230vac and work with it. 

The OzInverter AC coupling GTI's do not like a 230vac generator attached to the lines.
'Podias' nano inverter has experimental HZ synchronisation and looks promising.

How remiss of me, I did say that the utube vid had a few holwers. Those 32 pin SMD sub boards are available as a standard units and normally come in lots of 5 or 10off . I do give details how to obtain in the 2nd edition, control board components lists......

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10Pcs-0-65mm-to-0-8mm-QFN32-QFP32-IC-DIP-Mounting-PCB-Adapter-Converter-Plate/362278629275?epid=1349868636&hash=item54597d2f9b:g:KtUAAOSwXfVc8gpk


and even a UK seller one at a time.......

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCB-Converter-QFN32-QFP32-SMD-to-DIP32-0-8mm-0-65mm-Pitch-Adapter-Board-W132/323854855789?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180816085401%26meid%3D3ad02efc780a45d687195477e893c523%26pid%3D100970%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D362278629275%26itm%3D323854855789%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100970.m5481&_trkparms=pageci%3A72cc19be-a478-11e9-94d2-74dbd180ef4d%7Cparentrq%3Ae52128a216b0a9e3aea7dafcffddc9ed%7Ciid%3A1


But, I have a few bare 32 smd sub boards here so could put one in for you, along with the other 3 PCB's, just let me know.

The below photo is 'Gaspo's' contribution to shoot through posiblities, thanks for your work 'Peter'.
Peter and others studied shoot through with this 8010 SMD and found a possibility that the 8010 could fail.

However 'oztules' answers this in the technical section of the 2nd edition. 

In reality the OzInverter topography and layout design does not suffer from shoot through. But the 8010 chip  and the on and off switch has a lot to be desired and hates switch bounce, but again we have sorted that out.

As I say Peters SMD sub boards are a joy to behold, they are designed to be a straight swap out.  But as of yet I have not installed one, as it has not been necessary. 

I am like 'Oz', if it works leave it well alone.

The only recent problems I have found is that the Driver chips quality can be all over the place, it seems there are a lot of fakes out there, so get RS supplied genuine International Rectifier. 

Fred, if you have a spare Eltek or not! please do come and see me in Normandy for a couple of days, as we now have 2 operational very comfortable self contained Gites/cottages. I feel sure we could do a deal, and besides we could chat about things RE etc and sink some beverages as the sun sets in this peaceful gentle valley.




 

[SparWeb]

Hey,
Given how much the toroidal transformers are at the heart of the OzInverter, I thought this was the right spot to share this video of the toroidal transformer manufacturing process.
Hope you like it.
https://youtu.be/NZ8k39lRXFw?t=367

[frackers]

I got the version 1 book and PCBs from you some time ago but still not built anything up yet (still using the Power Jack electronics).

Can you give some idea of what has changed on the PCBs? I understand that the MOSFET driver component values may have changed on the power board and there have been changes on the shutdown/startup connections for the control board but a more detailed change list would be very useful to make sure that I don't smoke a newly built system!!

What I have is PwrBrdRev8,  OsCntrl10 and fan board and a few components including a bag of IFRB4110 MOSFETs, a bag of IR2110 and (somewhere if I can find them) a bunch of EG8010 chips and fanout boards.

Thanks

[clockmanFRA]

Hi Frackers,

No Changes to the Power Board or the Cooling board. You can use HY4008, the board will easily take the legs. I do still use 4110 FETS I have lots of them.



Please find below the silk screen masks, and the component list for the latest Control board, there are a few slight modifications.
A choice of On/Off switching, if this is the first build then its better to use the OverTemp ON/Off.   Alteration to the Zenner for the Driver Chips PSU is now 15v, TIP35 are now aligned for a bigger Heatsink as the TIP35 PSU gets hot.

So its not difficult to alter your original PCB.

I trust this helps.

[SmartLikeTruck]

Is there a FAQ somewhere for these inverters?
Can the DC voltage be altered fairly easily 24v or 36v in my case, or a lot higher in the case of car lithium pack reuse?

[MagnetJuice]

As far as I know, there is no FAQ for these inverters. I think that publishing a FAQ would be a good idea and would help to promote sales of the book.

I have read many good things about these inverters.

There is some information here:

http://www.bryanhorology.com/new-book--6kw-ozinverter.php

https://levivray.com/new-book--make-a-6kw-inverter.php

If you decide to contact Leslie Bryan (clockmanFRA), keep in mind that he is currently recovering from COVID-19. So be gentle and patient with him.

Ed

[Bruce S]

I've read the book. And there's tons of information about the build here on this website, have a gander at them in the "controls" section .

Have a look at the posts from clockmanfra and OzInvertor that will take you to the correct sections, and should answer most all questions.

Being that shipping bound books has come to a screaming halt, ClockmanFRA also has them in ebook form. Send him a PM and he'll gladly send a link.

Hope this helps

Bruce S

[clockmanFRA]

I have tried to respond on this topic twice.

Here goes,

For a 12v 24v and 36vdc we would need a complete re-design of the torroid and its windings, as we would require thicker cables and differing counts.

We stick to 48vdc as its high but not yet dangerous.

Here is a PDF of the Off Grid Chapter.

No plans for a EBook.  Might get my money back for colour book printing costs and PCB's costs in a few years time. One day. 


 Chapter13Sept19.pdf (696.02 kB - downloaded 334 times.)

[Bruce S]

clockmanFRA;
I though for sure you had an ebook . Sorry about that.
How are you and your family doing these days?

Bruce S

[JW]

Can verify PDFs are working properly

https://www.fieldlines.com/index.php/topic,149728.msg1046982.html#msg1046982

https://www.fieldlines.com/index.php?topic=149427.0

[clockmanFRA]

Thanks JW.

Bruce, yea we are muddling along here in France. Its just me and the youngest 13 year old.

Mrs is in the UK staying with a friend, eldest 2 boys are locked down in student accommodation in Southampton UK.

My youngest hates school as he is supposed to do his work on line, from just hand outs, so no teacher learning. He just learnt Pythagoras, but got it wrong, as his teacher says, "that is not the French method" "He got the correct answer but the working out is not the French way".      what!
He is about a week behind with his subjects, and we go skype this afternoon with mummy, and I will undoubtedly get chastised for not waving the preverbal stick at him.

How's your entourage Bruce, all at home?

[clockmanFRA]

SmartLikeA Truck,

Here is a PDF of the Chapter 4. The torroid.

Generally toroid core material is very similar in substance being a silicone Iron, however there are differeing quality material coming from china, so hence our testing method to ensure we are seeing the correct voltages.

 ToroidChapter4.pdf (901.88 kB - downloaded 268 times.)

[Bruce S]

Thanks JW.

Bruce, yea we are muddling along here in France. Its just me and the youngest 13 year old.

Mrs is in the UK staying with a friend, eldest 2 boys are locked down in student accommodation in Southampton UK.

My youngest hates school as he is supposed to do his work on line, from just hand outs, so no teacher learning. He just learnt Pythagoras, but got it wrong, as his teacher says, "that is not the French method" "He got the correct answer but the working out is not the French way".      what!
He is about a week behind with his subjects, and we go skype this afternoon with mummy, and I will undoubtedly get chastised for not waving the preverbal stick at him.

How's your entourage Bruce, all at home?

WE had the same problem with olde tyme teachers telling "That's not they way it was taught so they get a F, had to get my father-in-law whose has several PHDs in little things like Math, chemistry, etc. to explain to the "teacher" why our children were doing a more correct and advanced way.
The torture never ceased 

Family--- not all home. The missus is in Northern Japan (Misawa,Aomori ) doing the Head Chef thing she does so well . My international flight has of course been cancelled. FB video chats are nice, BUT not the same .

Stay Safe

Bruce S

[Mary B]

I got tossed out of geometry class because I did a proof the way the book showed instead of the way the teacher wanted it done. Principal came down hard on the teacher wen I showed him the proof on paper and he checked it.

[SparWeb]

A piece of advice given to me in college:  If the professor wrote the textbook, it's the only truth you need to know.

Clockman,
I am still impressed by how you have sustained this project for all these years.

[frackers]

Having bought a 1st edition with PCBs some time ago, can I get just the 2nd edition PCBs as an update ready in case anything goes bang?

Cheers

[clockmanFRA]

Thanks SparWeb, I am always calmed by your gentle advice.

[clockmanFRA]

My Dearest Frackers.

No problem as you were a pioneer all those years ago.

"2nd edition"   The power board is the same, the cooling board is the same.

The control board Revision 16, (next order of PCB's will be a No18) is different slightly,  still through hole components, there is a 50HZ and a 60HZ.

Now a instant shut down of the PWM SMD 8010 if there is a backfeed short, uses a BT169scr Thyristor and its red LED, (Yes it works as I accidental tested it, infact it worked quicker than the standard RCD).
 
New plug and rearrangement for a reset button if the SMD 8010 hangs and the reset for the Thyristor.

 A new option for start stopping using the very sensitive PIN 6 that hates switch bounce, or the known and sure Over Temp on the 8010, your choice. If its a first build use the Over temp option.

Slightly more space for differing 3w transformers on the AC 240vac to 12v feed back. More space for those 2off very important 2UF 450vac polypropylene film Motor start run capacitors.

Re alignment of the 2 TIP35C Transistors power supplies so a larger heatsink can be fitted, these can get hot.

Now a 15v Zenner diode for powering the IR2110 driver chips. (Watch out with these drivers as there are many fakes out there, and yes even from RS.)

Resistor changes on the 240vac feedback circuit to give better sensitivity, especially required if using voltage feedback on GTI AC grid tie coupling.

'Frackers' send me a PM and I will work out post cost for the new Control board and a copy of the 2nd edition.

I trust this helps.

Photos...….   HY4008 FETS fitted to this board and it has a Rev16 50HZ Control Board.






   

[oladyani]

Hi Folks,

Hoping someone might be able to assist with. I got the 2nd edition book and am based in the US.

Am trying to understand how am going to connect the EMI Filter to suit the center tapped 120-0-120 VAC for the US. In the book it says I need 8 x EMI Filters and am a little confused how the filters would be configured. Series or Parallel ?

Thanks for your anticipated help.

[clockmanFRA]

Hi oladyani,

And welcome.

I have replied to your email, but I will reply here for clarification.

Each of these cheap EMI filters can take 20 amps max, in reality perhaps only 15a so we need to double them up. 

60HZ 120vac,  Because the toroid is split into 2 operational units, However the amps drawn from each 120v side can still be the same as the original design for 240vac, then 4 EMI filters will be required for each 120vac side of the toroid. Sorry a little bit more work!

In my 60HZ 120vac drawing I am showing the centre tap from the toroid as Neutral. When you have the EMI filters you can see, with the help of the photos in the 2nd Edition how they connect up.

In the Photo showing the cables and EMI filters being assembled, the top right of the photo shows 2 black AC cables coming from the toroid. These are then split into 2 each for 2 filter units, afterwards I re-join the cables into the RCD.

Just jumping from spade connector to spade connector  is UNSAFE, as a 40amps surge could melt a spade connector.

For 120vac you will need to do 2off 4 EMI filter units, one for each 120vac coming from the toroid, ie 8 EMI filters are required for 120vac.

I trust this helps,





 2Supplement 60HZ 120vac.pdf (138.5 kB - downloaded 244 times.)

[oladyani]

Dear Clockman,

Once again thanks for taking out the time to give a clear breakdown of what needs to be done and most importantly including photos. These goes a look way!

Regards.

[clockmanFRA]

Here is a basic block drawing of the EMI filter arrangement/connections.

From the toroid I normally use 10mm/sq (AWG000(3/0) ) cable, this then brakes out to 2 off 6mm/sq (AWG3) cables to the EMI filters.

Spade connectors  for 6mm/sq cable for the EMI fileters are commercially available.  Please fit insulator covers.

[oladyani]

Dear Clockman,

Like they say, a picture speaks a thousand words.

Many thanks.

[johntaves]

I am looking to make an inverter for my RV. I have a few goals and wanted to check to see if this build will satisfy me before I plunk down over $100 for the instructions.

1) I want to build this into a custom area of the RV. The space I am going for is a vertical space where the tank vent pipe runs. My thinking is that I can make a metal surround and then space the boards vertically. Am I correct to understand that I will have a lot of flexibility positioning these components. I assume this is the case, but wanted any thought on that topic others might have.
2) I want it to be quiet at least when it is not doing much. Like my microwave has a clock and that might be the only drain when the fridge and water heater are not in use. I am hoping I can choose a large fan and its speed can be controlled via the software. My current inverter runs the fan "intelligently" by just turning it on and off. I understand that the windings on the choke and the transformer have to be made properly so they don't hum, but other than that it should be just the fan, right?
3) I will want 60hz, 110v. And will run that into a 50amp box that has the 2 phase lines. Will this have 2 phase 110, so that it can do 220v? Or maybe 2 separate 110v to at least put the amps over 2 wires?
4) How is the idle, or low power consumption? Low power would be that microwave clock as the only load.

Thanks for your thoughts, and I apologize if this is the wrong place to post these questions.

[Mary B]

There are tons of external fan controller boards that can ramp fan speed up based on temperature. Just add one in...