Recharging freezer with Freon

[JW]

I have this stand up freezer that costed like $800 I bought it about ten years ago. Well it stopped cooling. I called a appliance repair shop and had to pay a service charge of like $120 and they did nothing with it and took my money. The thing is a really nice unit. I did some research and its not a big deal to recharge it with 134A. Im used to charging auto AC systems so im not afraid of it.

So anyway it only costs $25 to get the bullet valve and recharge it. I ordered the parts today and should have them by the end of the week.



Here is a picture of the compressor



This is the low side tube. I will tap into this pipe with the bullet valve to charge it on the low side of the system. Since there are no service ports the valve is needed. This is a last ditch effort so its worth it. Will update when I get the parts and I can recharge it.   

[makenzie71]

I use to do a lot of commercial and residential HVAC...same principal with refrigerators and freezers.  The systems are sealed.  The freon and oil don't get used up or anything like that.  If the thing is not running because it's low on freon, the problem is not that it's low on freon.  "Low on freon" is a symptom...the problem is that the freon is getting out.

You can invest in the parts and materials to put more freon in it, but you're still going to have to find out how the freon is getting out.

[JW]

When selecting the bullet valve they also have a simple gauge to check pressure. I didnt use that since I have a good set of gauges and a oil charge cylinder. Im going to put about 1 once(or less) of UV dye oil when I recharge. I have a UV light so I can track for a leak. This thing gradually lost performance so your probably right.

[XeonPony]

If it used to be R12 you'll need to give it a shot of N-Butane to carry over the oil (Same stuff lighters use)

and as a last shot (Basically system is a throw away if it fails) is using the leak stop stuff they sell for cars, not the seal sweller type but the goop type.

[OperaHouse]

I have a 5cf freezer I have to do the same thing with.  I have the gas, the hoses and the valve. Even a vacuum pump and scale.   For the last three years they have never all shown up at the same time. Have a 7cf used as a fridge. The 5cf would be nice for ice cream. I swear this is the year. Place your bets.

Years back my sister had an appliance store and GE had a recall on compressors.  I did a dozen in one day.

[JW]

@XeonPony

I have actually charged a system with iso butane and it actually works for a R12 system. After sometime the oil will turn to carbon.

I use 134a in cars and this fridge specifies that its using 134a so it will be an easy recharge. Like said before I will add UV dye when charging the freezer.

I plan on using the vacuum pump if there is no pressure.

Heres a look at my parts got them today.

[JW]

Finally got to this project


adapter


Add UV dye


Add freon to low side


charge to 30lbs


check for leaks




Success

[JW]

Been doing some tweaking



I intally found two other things that were wrong, fixed them and everything as good as I hoped. The spec- running temp is "0" degree F

I managed to get the system charged to 20psi low side, then tracked a problem where the circulation fan wasn't turning on. After that it seems everything is working down to -5 f

[JW]

 https://www.google.com/search?q=deep+freeze+freon&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1049US1049&oq=deep+freeze+freon&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i22i30l2j0i390i650l3.33211j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[OperaHouse]

I have a 5CF chest fridge that lost gas after three years. I found it too small so I just bought another 7CF unit. I read this theory that refrigeration units that are left idle for a long time will loose gas. There may be something to it. If lubricating oil isn't cycled thru on a regular basis, refrigerant may leak thru pinhole leaks faster.  I have the vacuum pump, refrigerant, meters, tap and hoses.  I just can't seem to get them all together at the same time.  I'd like to have a cooler just to keep fruit and other things at about 45F. Someday.

[bigrockcandymountain]

In Canada, they don't sell cans of 134a refrigerant.  They sell 12a like duracool and redtek.  They both work really great, especially in systems designed for R12.

I had a Volkswagen car that used a variable diaplacement pump that needed 134a, not a substitute.  When researching how to get around this, I discovered that the keyboard cleaner canned air cans are sometimes 134a.  You can get a tool called a side can tap to get it out and in to your manifold set. It just pokes a hole in the side of the can. 

It all seemed kinda sketchy to me.  I never bought the tool. Anybody have any experience with any of that stuff?

[joestue]

I have had no problem using canned air which is r-152a, in place of r-134a.... which you can no longer buy in washington state over the counter.

almost all cars are variable displacement swashplate 5-7 piston compressors.

i might re-fill the r-1234yf in my chevy spark with r-152a. it works fine, but has low capacity. i should get something like 20% more capacity from switching, without even loading the compressor more.

[bigrockcandymountain]

That's another thing i was wondering was if r-152a would work.  Thanks for posting.  So do you use a side can tap for that?

[joestue]

That's another thing i was wondering was if r-152a would work.  Thanks for posting.  So do you use a side can tap for that?

yeah. best to put the can in the freezer so you lose less product, those side piercing can taps don't work all that great.

[JW]

All these refrigeration systems use an expansion valve I think my compressor is still good.

I still have this freezer if we could make it work again it would be awesome.