Hugh Piggotts book,
scoraigwind.co.uk/all-of-the-books-by-hugh-how-to-get-them/His balancing techniques are excellent and he is a practical builder with over 40 odd years of experience.
I use his balancing methods on both my Cedar wood blades and on my Fiberglass blades.
My turbines have been up over 10 years now, but every year each needs lowering, rebalancing and servicing/painting etc so I allow 6 days.
Its the moisture that gets them out of balance.
It has to be a non wind day, shorting out of the turbine disconnected and see where the blade comes to a stop.
I use Masking tape and tape on a small piece of lead sheet onto the opposing blade at its root. Keep adding and taking away until the blade is neutral.
For fine tuning I have a a small length of lead at about 10mm1/2inch wide and 35mm/1/1/2 inches long. I place this so it goes over in a U shape at the tip of each blade leading edge when its in a horizontal position, I start each blade with my length of lead, then slide it inwards towards the hub each time and then see which blade turns and which one doesn't and attach or take away lead at the roots.
Once happy and the turbine is balanced I attach the lead with stainless steel screws. Paint, grease, unwind the 3 phase cables, check the mast cable turnbuckles etc etc. Yep 2 days each year.
As I say its all in Hugh's book.

The above image shows one of my blades with a lump of lead, not yet painted, attched at the root of a blade.

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