Inverter Receptacle

[adobejoe]

So I have been using a SAMLEX 1000 watt inverter but want to go larger,  I prefer to just use the attached receptacle, and not have to wire a separate box and breaker panel. There are larger inverters, even 3000 watts, with a receptacle. Would this be okay if I watch my load, like keep it below 20-30 amps?  I was told it is maybe not as efficient or not the right way to use them? Looking at other brands as well.  Exceltech or Cotek?  ideas?

Andy

[noneyabussiness]

Not sure what country you are from ( voltage or regs ) or what you mean by a " receptacle " , but here in Australia the maximum your supposed to pull through a " standard " socket is 10 amp... pulled more but wouldn't for long periods ( heck 10 amps she gets pretty warm ),  you can get higher rated plugs but cost does dramatically increase in some cases ...

[Bruce S]

This also depends on what you're getting your input voltages from.
Batteries, Fuel powered generator?

I do have a 3000w inverter that has the 110Vac (USA voltage) on them. It works just fine. I only have about 100A of battery fully charged so it would not last long without something behind them.

Give us a little more of how you are getting power to the inverter and what kind of appliances your running on it. We can give better suggestions.

Hope that helps
Bruce S

[adobejoe]

Four six volt 420 amp hour wet cells in series, parallel for 12 Vic.  Should be 840 AH and at 50% 420 ah.  Load small refrigerator (apt). Lights tool charger, maybe radio.

[noneyabussiness]

So 20-30 amps 12v   Is this " receptacle " the dc side or ac side ?? If dc, do the batteries have posts or something else ( special connector requirements , etc)

The loads you describe the 1000w should be plenty,  most higher powered inverters ( if dc " receptacle ") have ether lager ones or multiple ones in parallel..

If ac, depends on whats been stated above... is it 110v or 220v ??

[adobejoe]

the purpose of an inverter is generally DC to AC.  The receptacle is 120 volt AC, 60 hertz

[Bruce S]

If the fridge is say a 10Cu with the upper part being freezer. I can say that the larger inverter should start it up with little to no issues.
Is it a puresine ? or modified /MSW that you are looking to buy ?
The startup of the fridge can be around 10x the running load. It's the whole compressor startup that needs the extra power.

You certainly do seem to have enough oomph on the battery sizes.
 
A small answer to your original post about efficiency. Ture the larger ones will use the "juice" faster, but ,,, then you can safely run everything from one.
Efficiency wise, you'll want to run  it at 70-80% full for the unit's size. Even on standby, it'll be using the juice quicker than the 1000w, just sitting there even with no load. The % of load could depend on the inverter itself. I have yet to run my 3000 watt MSW HF cheapo over 2000w , even then it tends to be pretty warm on the top.

Hope this helps

Bruce S
 

[noneyabussiness]

the purpose of an inverter is generally DC to AC.  The receptacle is 120 volt AC, 60 hertz

Lol, i know what an inverter does, built my own and been off grid for  years... I was asking you which side the " receptacle " was on,  dc it will have to handle much higher current... but anyways, you answered the question ish...

Being 120v , ill assume yanky , so have no idea what your regs allow, but being a lower voltage your wattage will be lower for same " receptacle " as your currents will generally be higher... but I'll bow out as not sure what you yanks use

[Bruce S]

the purpose of an inverter is generally DC to AC.  The receptacle is 120 volt AC, 60 hertz

Lol, i know what an inverter does, built my own and been off grid for  years... I was asking you which side the " receptacle " was on,  dc it will have to handle much higher current... but anyways, you answered the question ish...

Being 120v , ill assume yanky , so have no idea what your regs allow, but being a lower voltage your wattage will be lower for same " receptacle " as your currents will generally be higher... but I'll bow out as not sure what you yanks use

WE "yanks" use for the most part 120Vac.
FWIW, the term "yanky" isn't normally well received . It stems for our civil war days. Yank we understand, as most of the EU called me that while serving in Europe in the middle 70s.

Bruce S

[Mary B]

Those little dorm fridges are power pigs!

[dnix71]

Posted by: Mary B
« on: July 02, 2021, 02:24:07 PM
Those little dorm fridges are power pigs!

Poorly insulated and when you open the front door all the cold air flows out.
I have had one of these for almost 15 years.
https://engelcoolers.com/collections/powered-fridge-freezers/products/mr40-overland-fridge

It's so old the temp control is an analog dial 1-5. Set it past 1.5 and it will freeze solid inside. Uses 35 watts to run, 12v or 120v, and very quiet. The price finally stabilized, too.
Milk keeps weeks without going sour because the cold side is the inside of then fridge, with standoffs. The box is behind the cold coils.
Never used anything but soapy water to clean the inside and only once had to used compressed air to clean the hot side coils under the control panel side. Mine uses R134a, same as most cars here.

I have owned 2 Samlex inverters. I liked both but the smaller one would not shut off if overloaded, the voltage just sagged.
The only time I would use an extension cord or multi-tap strip is when absolutely necessary. US duplex outlets are usually rated 1875 watts resistive. That's more than your Samlex can deliver.

[Scruff]

WE  use for the most part 120Vac.

 

Two of them with a 180° offset.
It's like 230v and three phase with none of the benefits.
I'd say it's possibly safer but I don't fancy yer receptacles...

...leading to an answer...you can change the receptacle but hardwiring it will handle the heat better and not be a long term liability.
Having said that I expect most functioning inverters are wired to at least one receptacle eventually.

Nothing wrong with compressor fridges. You can externally insulate and if you fill them with a thermal mass like food or beer opening the door doesn't upset the stability as much. Absorption fridges on the other hand are muck.

Personaly I wouldn't pay more than €150 onna fridge I don't care how special a snowflake it makes.

[Mary B]

Mini fridges use the outside shell to dissipate the compressor heat so you cannot insulate it more on the outside!

[adobejoe]

Mary, yes I discovered that. Also I keep mine on a sheltered outside deck.  In Wyoming nights are cool.  I have solar excess, so use it during the day. My fridge is actually a wine cooler set at about 45deg F. So far working well!

[Scruff]

12/24Volters rock external condensers.

[Bruce S]

Scruff
What kind of running current do those pull? I'd like to find one that doesn't cost$$$.
I have a couple of the solid state units I converted from 120Vac to 12Vdc, but they constantly power. They are a good source of heat for my shed :-D.

Cheers
Bruce S

[Scruff]

Well....err it was a €600 fridge...but I paid ~€150 for it off the last owner and resprayed the gubbins.

That fridge runs at 200Wh per day in August with a stable thermal mass internal. About 5A inrush, 3A nominal @ 12volt. Roughly 25% duty cycle.



It's atmospherically shade vented to Ireland with 4 active 140mm silent computer fans triggered by the Danfoss Compressor Controller, in push-pull orientation, baffled through the condenser heat sink.

Seebeck units will use about >2kWh a day and the regulation is beyond shyte.

[Bruce S]

Seebeck units will use about >2kWh a day and the regulation is beyond shyte.

All three (2) fridges (1) Wine chiller were freebies.

Regulation? we don't need  no regulation  .
Even at  ~€150 that's more than I paid for the 10Cu fridge and 24" gas stove combo.

I like the Atmospheric venting !!