Author Topic: Only Got Dumb Looks at Auto Zone (Read 491 times)

Slingshot · « **on:** February 20, 2006, 08:03:48 PM »

This weekend I took a little time off from the pool tournaments to go on a bit of scavenger hunting for mechanical parts.

First I visited a local Northern Tools retail outlet to check out the trailer hubs and axles. Plenty of options there - capacities from 2000 lbs on up, either 4- or 5-lug/stud on 4-1/2" centers plus 4-lug/stud on 4" centers. Spindles available for any of the above, in either round- or square-stub varieties. I jotted down a few notes and headed for the discount auto-parts stores to see if I could match up any interesting brake rotors.

It went like this:

Parts Ape: What can I get you?

Me: Do any of your $16.99 series of brake rotors have a non-vented disk and 4- or 4-1/2" bolt pattern?

Parts Ape: What year and model?

Me: Well, it's not actually for a car, it's for a project where I'll need to bolt it onto a trailer hub.

Parts Ape: We got some trailer brakes, what year and model?

That's as far as I got. Similar story everywhere, never even got around to talking offset, or size of the center hole, or inner diameter of the hat. Of course they don't have them laying out where you can look at them, you need to first arrive at a stock number so the parts ape can go to the correct shelf and fetch the box.

I'm sure I'm at least the 1,000th guy who started at this point, so if any oldtimers on here can share their particulars I'd appreciate it. I researched past threads and found some discussion that Mustang Cobra brakes are low offset and perhaps suitable, but then there were few real details of what hub that person was using. And the poster who was to have reported back on his final results never did.

So, does anyone have the complete formula .... source and catalog number for a hub, plus year/make/model for compatible rotors? Having several sets of options would be ideal, since one set of rotors may be half the price of another similar set.

Ideally, I'd like the set I come up with to be capable of inverted mounting of the inside rotor, such that the hub fits "up inside" the hat. The way I see it, the further out from the spindle my rotors are mounted, the more a small amount of bearing wobble will affect my clearances. So I'd like to keep things in close.

All comments appreciated! BTW, if no one has been through and documented this before, I'll be surprised, but if I'm the first I'll have to write a book on it!

drdongle · « **Reply #1 on:** February 20, 2006, 01:13:50 PM »

I suggest developing a relationship with a local auto scrap yard, they often have some one who knows a lot of these things and can make recommendations as to what will match what you need and suggestions for putting it together. They may also have what you need at a lower cost than the auto parts places.

phil b · « **Reply #2 on:** February 20, 2006, 01:17:18 PM »

I've had this problem frequently. An easier way around it is to buy your materials from one retailer such as http://www.championtrailers.com/.

You can also go to the junk yard and measure the parts you need, then go back to the parts ape store with make and model.

kitno455 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 20, 2006, 01:37:05 PM »

junk yard and a tape rule leads to the following post:

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2006/2/6/01717/73780

it will be hard to place one of the rotors behind the hub if the back of the hub is not flat. the center hole might also be too small, though the hub can probably be pressed apart and re-assembled around the back rotor.

allan

smidy · « **Reply #4 on:** February 20, 2006, 01:51:28 PM »

I dont know if this help you but maybe som else, Alfa romeo 116 (75 gtv..transaxle late 70´s up to erly 90´s) have very low ofset solid rear brakedisks with pretty big center hole, but they are not so big since there are rear brakes, but for the little smaler mills i think it be good

wdyasq · « **Reply #5 on:** February 20, 2006, 01:52:27 PM »

Ignore the parts ape! -

Gaze stupidly here:

http://tinyurl.com/klzzj

Here is the hub I am planning using on a present project: http://tinyurl.com/kp6uf

I will probably use the $5.95 spindle: http://tinyurl.com/fggpo

Check with DanB's eBay store for waterjet cut discs. He may be offering complete kits by now.

Ron

Nando · « **Reply #6 on:** February 20, 2006, 02:06:04 PM »

Slingshot:

Of course the stores are not geared as a dime store, they have so many products that is necessary for them to go to their catalogs to find what is needed with a reference to a specific piece of equipment i.e = car, trailer etc.

The solution is the Junk Yard, some allow you to go around and find what you need and yourself do the extraction for a much lower price -- like less than half.

Projects like wind mill axial need "paper work" to get the proper part traced to a specific year model major element ( car, truck, trailer or airplane).

I have not read about airplane hubs -- some are big --and good for a good axial.

Remember the project is not done until all the paper work is done !!!!

Nando

Slingshot · « **Reply #7 on:** February 20, 2006, 02:07:49 PM »

Ron,

Good site - turns out they're only a few miles from me, so I'll have to browse them this weekend. Might be a better source than Northern for hubs and spindles, since many of those at Northern Tool must be bought in pairs.

I'm still planning to avoid disks cut from plate metal, since they've been noted to frequently come with up to 0.050" warpage.

Slingshot · « **Reply #8 on:** February 20, 2006, 02:19:06 PM »

Allan,

Yes, I saw that thread. I wonder if he ever figured out what car this rotor came from? Also, no mention of bolt pattern diameter but at least you can see that it is 5-lug.

"The disc is 10" dia. and has a D meassurement of only 3/8". I don't know what GM car it comes from but the GM# is 14087871. Its 7/16" thick. Most likley 1/2" or more new."

BTW, I wasn't talking of mounting the disk behind the hub, just offsetting it to the rear by mounting it with the "hat" facing out.

Slingshot · « **Reply #9 on:** February 20, 2006, 02:25:55 PM »

"I've had this problem frequently. An easier way around it is to buy your materials from one retailer such as http://www.championtrailers.com/."

Phil,

Having been through this several times, can you share which of their part #s you ordered to make your unit?

Slingshot · « **Reply #10 on:** February 20, 2006, 02:28:55 PM »

Thanks, I'll ask and see if they can pull up anthing from that information.

Slingshot · « **Reply #11 on:** February 20, 2006, 02:30:41 PM »

OK, I called a GM parts guy and he told me that wasn't a valid part number. He said that it was probably a "casting number" and didn't represent anything he could trace. Maybe "Jerry" will see this thread and jump in with whether he ever figured out what car it came from.

craig110 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 20, 2006, 04:15:38 PM »

I get these "dumb looks" a lot. What has worked for me is just saying "no, this is not for <fill in the blank>, this is part of a science project." Usually, the salesperson stops asking questions upon hearing the "science project" phrase and gets what I need or is willing to answer odd questions about the product. If they aren't busy, sometimes they'll ask what I'm working on and give good suggestions about other parts they have that might help.

Craig

zubbly · « **Reply #13 on:** February 20, 2006, 04:47:57 PM »

Slingshot.

you went about it the wrong way. next time take bananas with you. apes love them

lol

zubbly

wdyasq · « **Reply #14 on:** February 20, 2006, 05:26:18 PM »

Where are you located Slingperson?

I am about 80 miles SW of Dallas.

Ron

Shadow · « **Reply #15 on:** February 20, 2006, 06:04:20 PM »

I built my first wind turbine using Volvo brake rotors and spindle. Since then I've removed them and went with 3/8 steel plates. 2 pieces for $10.00 at the local scrap yard. Marked out what size rotor I wanted cut out, as well as inside holes. Took them to machine shop, they cut out the diameters, cut out inside holes, put them in their lathe and machined a bed for the magnets to lay in (left a 1/16 lip around outside edge) and smoothed off the cutting torch marks.Went to pick them up and asked, How much for cash? (cash speaks volumes up here) He says Hows 20.00 sound?...for both. I handed him 25 and left happy! Now I'm on my secound turbine, larger rotors, heavier stator bracket..when I dropped them off to be cut out I also dropped off 6 doughnuts (cost me 2.00)... same guy same deal! I usually stay away from the fancy machine shops with modern equipment, and try to find an owner/operator with greasey coveralls,in a small dimly lit machine shop, they are far easier to deal with and if youre happy the first time keep going back, he gets to know you and what youre building and can help alot.I've always tried to support the little guy where possible.

My wind turbine got considerable lighter by changing the Volvo rotors and cut about 4 inches of all-thread off and moved the prop in closer.I doubt I would use brake rotors again, I just cant see the advantage.

Titantornado · « **Reply #16 on:** February 20, 2006, 06:14:55 PM »

> I researched past threads and found some discussion that Mustang Cobra

> brakes are low offset and perhaps suitable, but then there were few real

> details of what hub that person was using. And the poster who was to

> have reported back on his final results never did.

Hey Slingshot, that poster is me, and I did post the brand/model/dimensions and been deciding on just how I would like to install the rotor on the hub. That thread is the current state of construction I'm at, and as you read, I was considering the "hat" towards the stator on the rear rotor, but would have needed spacers to push the mags out a bit more for the hat to clear the stator, but as discussed, it was thought to be a bad idea. I have a new plan for what I'm going to do next. It's posted on that thread.

Use caution about the hub confusion. There are a few different folks communicating back and forth discussing different hubs. The hub assembly I'm using is a 5 x 4 1/2 trailer hub on a 1 3/8 spindle, and a 1 3/4" dia x 3 1/2 long weldable stud. So far, my plan is solid.

.

Don Cackleberrycreations · « **Reply #17 on:** February 20, 2006, 08:01:02 PM »

Ok while you were at northern why didnt you ask about their disc brake rotors for large trailors ?? I believe they carry some different sizes.

also something that seems to be missed often as a source for magnet rotors would be chain sprockets for or from farm equipment . often these are at least 1/4" and up to 1/2" thick depending on the chain size . They also come with weld in centers meaning they often have a large diameter hole in the middle.

For a small turbine you could use the axle and chain sprocket off an old riding mower these range from 5-8" diameter

DanG · « **Reply #18 on:** February 21, 2006, 12:35:53 AM »

Last time I was at northern the only disc brake rotors they had on display were spendy stainless steel types that have nickle in them and won't carry flux - they also were selling at a premium!

Kwazai · « **Reply #19 on:** February 21, 2006, 09:20:52 AM »

ditto on the auto junkyard, just about every DIY RE(AE) thing I've looked at seems to be buildeable from carparts....

Mike

Slingshot · « **Reply #20 on:** February 21, 2006, 10:02:43 AM »

I'm in Plano, about 7 miles north of Dallas.

Slingshot · « **Reply #21 on:** February 21, 2006, 10:09:47 AM »

I did check Northern's brake parts, but didn't see anything suitable. All too small and pricey, and many were stainless. Also checked out the sprockets over in the go-kart and mini-bike section, but for the most part these were also pricey for the relatively "unfinished" state they are in (still needing additional center-hole relief and additional holes drilled).

It seems that brand-new brake rotors are a great way to go, providing you can get the correct data together so that you minimize machine time. Solid brake rotors would have plenty of material thickness, and they would be guaranteed flat. And they go on sale for really cheap at the discount auto-parts houses.

Slingshot · « **Reply #22 on:** February 21, 2006, 10:11:17 AM »

Guess I won't be able to check out that store until next weekend. This Friday I have to drive to Odessa for a pool tourney.

Slingshot · « **Reply #23 on:** February 21, 2006, 10:13:55 AM »

Hey Zubbly,

Aren't you the motor-conversion expert? Probably I should start a new thread, but I'm wondering if the motors from old washing machines have any potential, either as generator conversions or as parts sources. I can't remember exactly how they're configured (it's been a while), but I do know that they're easy to find for free!

Buck L · « **Reply #24 on:** March 13, 2006, 12:12:05 AM »

I'm reading this with keen interest and I've been around the block a couple of times, so here are my thoughts. If I were you I would go to ForceField. They have rotors all ready cut drilled and ready to install on trailer hubs.

News:

Author Topic: Only Got Dumb Looks at Auto Zone (Read 491 times)