Well, then another thing to look at is your battery bank and wiring to the inverters. If the bank and wiring is not sized properly to deliver the full surge power to the inverters during surge loads, while keeping the voltage above the LBCO, the inverters will kick out on overload.
You'd have to look at the specs for those inverters, but I know mine pull 720 amps at full surge power. If the battery bank and wiring cannot deliver those 720 amps to the inverters with the voltage above 22 VDC at the inverter input, you will not get full surge power from the inverters.
I would suppose that your 48 volt bank would have to be able to deliver half that, or about 360 amps, while keeping the input voltage above 44 to keep the inverters lit during surge at 14 kW load. Might want to check that out, or lower the LBCO in the inverter menu if you have it set too high. Adding dual inverters to a bank that was originally sized and wired for a single inverter might require a bank upgrade. It took 24 Rolls T12's to keep my inverters lit at full surge power. And that was the bare minimum. I added 12 more, so I got 4,500 amp-hours feeding the inverters, and the bank will now deliver the required surge power with ease, even with the bank run down into the 23's on voltage. I was not able to weld with mine until we spent $10 Grand on a new battery bank.
Our normal loads average about 1.2 kW 24 hours a day. So the autotransformer to keep the inverters balanced was a necessity for us. At only 200 watts load on one inverter, that shouldn't be an issue. But I can't figure out how you can run your inverters very efficiently at that load. The inverters are way oversized for your system then. Look at the efficiency curve for your inverters, and they don't reach peak efficiency until you get about a 500 watt load on them. They are least efficient at zero load, and the curve from zero to peak is very steep. But 200 watts is less than 80% efficient.
This is the power efficiency curve for our 4024's, as an example:
You need to at least turn on the coffee maker and pull 1,200 watts because otherwise you got about the same situation as bolting a small block Chevy on a lawnmower
--
Chris
Edit to add some information for folks who might read this:
With any given battery bank, whether it be wired 12, 24 or 48 volt, the amount of amps each battery in the bank has to deliver to meet a given load is the same.
Let's say you have four batteries hooked in parallel on a 12 volt inverter. The draw on the battery bank is 1200 watts at 12 volt nominal. This means the batteries have to deliver 100 amps to make the 1200 watts. Each battery delivers 25 amps of the total load.
Hook the same four batteries in series/parallel for 24 volt. Apply the same 1200 watt load. Total amp draw is 50 amps @ 24 volt nominal. Each parallel group delivers 25 amps of the total load. Each battery in each series string delivers 25 amps to meet the load.
Hook the same four batteries in series for 48 volt. Apply the same 1200 watt load. Total amp draw is 25 amps @ 48 volt nominal. Each battery in the series string has to deliver the full 25 amps of the load.
So for folks thinking a 48 volt system will be superior to 12 or 24 when it comes to meeting surge loads because of less amp flow to the inverter, it is not. The only difference between them is the size of wire required from the bus to the inverter feed studs. Whether the bank be 12, 24 or 48 volt configured, every battery (and interconnect) in the bank still has to be able to handle the same amps without excessive voltage drop at the inverter input to get the full surge power.
I learned this the hard way - when we upgraded our old 12 volt system to 24 last year I couldn't get any more surge power from the new inverters than I got from the old 12's. Until I put enough battery power on them. And with dual inverters, it takes double the bank capacity that it requires with one.