Author Topic: E-Car on the road again. (Read 5371 times)

Jerry · « **on:** November 23, 2005, 05:12:01 AM »

I've replaced all 20 6 volt golf car batteries with new Excide. I wanted to do Trojan but I would have had to build a new battery rack system.

The slightly lower voltage condition still exists but I'm not having any driving problems.

Now the winter is here and temps have been 25 to 32 degrees in the mornings when I drive to work I've noticed less preformance. I think its the cold stiff grease in the transmision and rear end and its much colder for the batteries.

On the way I coast down a hill. In the sommer the truck would hit 46 mph at the bottom of the hill. Now its 42 mph. I atribute this to the cold.

Open hiway speed is less also. I still hit about 57 mph on the straight strech though.

I was thinking of draining the gearbox and rear end and putting in some light weight oil.

My trip to work is 7.5 miles and my load is either very light or none at all.

What oil weight would be good? 10, 20 or 30 or something else?

I've still got 45 lbs in the tires I've had no problems with that.

I do have a 120 volt heater onboard now with a 12 volt dc fan. I don't have to run it much. It makes plenty of heat real fast.

JK TAS Jerry

Norm · « **Reply #1 on:** November 22, 2005, 10:54:50 PM »

Jerry,

How long does it take to recharge the

batteries after the trip to work and back?

( :>) Norm

pyrocasto · « **Reply #2 on:** November 23, 2005, 12:09:27 AM »

Awesome Jerry! True inspiration to me and others!

A garage would help your performance on the way to work, but the way back will not change.

hiker · « **Reply #3 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:12:34 AM »

hey jerry..

toss on a little desiel engine[charger purposes] and one[or more] of your high output motor alts..

should help out on your range..

any reason why you didnt go with a lite car conversion --like a geo metro or old vw bug?

what type of motors are you using? do they have neo"s in them?..................

halfcrazy · « **Reply #4 on:** November 23, 2005, 05:44:56 AM »

jerry i would look for the lightest wieght synthetic oil you can find only going that distance you are never warming up the old gear oile at all

jimjjnn · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2005, 06:29:18 AM »

My x son-in-laws Jeep uses auto transmission fluid in his transfer case and manual transmission. Dont know if the differentials use it too. He uses Dexron ( General Mootors).

windstuffnow · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2005, 07:51:13 AM »

Great work Jerry ! I'm still collecting parts for my S10 conversion and haven't started on the project yet, hopefully sooon! Your definately an inspiration to push the project forward !

.

dinges · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2005, 08:18:40 AM »

You guys can re-build vehicles to electric and are allowed on the road with them?

Wow, over here in the Netherlands this would be impossible... Not that it hasn't been done, but not legally, to the best of my knowledge.

Wish we had a bit more of your legislation over here (on various issues, like CCW etc.)

Peter,

The Netherlands.

nothing to lose · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2005, 08:59:17 AM »

Great to hear you have it back on the road again.

Experimental · « **Reply #9 on:** November 23, 2005, 10:38:05 AM »

Hi Jerry,

You might get by on the transmission, with lighter oil, but the rear end needs, Hypoid gear oil, as the helical cut gears, have a teriffic amount of friction put on them --- my brother in law, once put 30 weight oil, in a rear end -- just to get to a service station, about a 1/4 mile away --- he didn,t make it !!

Part of the problem, is the pinion bearings, are torqued to about 200 foot lbs, so the bearings are preloaded -- you might find a lighter weight , hypoid gear oil but the stress on that pinion is pretty terrific -- i would not experiment there !!!

Sounds like a pretty neat machine -- are we charging the batts, off one of those wind mills

Bill H...........

Bruce S · « **Reply #10 on:** November 23, 2005, 11:25:44 AM »

Jerry;

Good to read that it's back on the road.

Here's a few pointers for the tranny and rear-end.

For the tranny if you haven't already done so, you could give it a good flushing with a low viscosity oil, then visit a local auto supply store and ask for the high grade tranny fluid that they should have for the '91 Silverado trucks that have the 5 speed manuals. This stuff is real slippery and can be a bit expensive.

You shouldn't try to use other type of oils has the tranny can get real hot even after just 15 miles, plus the oil has to be able to keep everything sliding right along.

The rear-end is one that you'd want to make sure and use the correct fluids too. These babies can reach excess temps of 100F by the first 15 -20 miles an can sieze up if they don't have good lubes.

These things take a tremendous amount of loads, torque and heat. The G.O. 90 needs all the help it can get.

Here's something I do for all vehicles I/we worked on.

Drain all the old oil out of the rear-end, wipe all the gunk out of the bottom of the middle section.

Jack up the rear-end and put stand under the axles so the tires can freely rotate (put tranny in neutral).

Using carburetor cleaner, spray this stuff all over the internal gears while slowly turning one of the wheels, making sure all the old gear oil is washed off.

Clean off all the old stuff, clean up all the spray stuff. Using new Gear Oil, pour it onto the cleaned gears while slowly rotating the wheel, then pour more in the bottom of the middle section. Put on a new gasket, then fill the rear-end to the fill point. Put a small magnet on the bottom of the middle section at the lowest point possible.

This little job will show up as a much easier to roll and often times much quieter rear-end as well.

The magnet will make all the new shavings stay at the bottom and not in the gears where they can wear out or slow it down.

I've done this for everything from the old Kaiser Jeeps to massive 22 ½ monsters during my ARMY years, and it's amazing how much metal is floating around in there. AND how gunky the oil is from not ever being changed since the vehicle was new.

Hope this helps;

Bruce S

Jerry · « **Reply #11 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:32:18 PM »

Hi Norm.

Well I'm pluged in when not driving. So the daily ruteen is uplug it drive to work

7.5 miles, 5 miles of that open and flat hyway. Get to work at 8:30 am plug it in at 6:30 PM unplug it drive home and plug it in. Same next day.

I have gone 30 miles one charge but that was on the old batteries. Havn't tried a distance run on the new batteries yet. I think I'll wate till next sommer for that?

I acctuly don't use the heater that much (shot trip).

I do have eronds to run from time to time (get lunch or parts). This does not effect the trip home.

More learning and upgrades to come.

JK TAS Jerry

Jerry · « **Reply #12 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:35:39 PM »

Hi Chris.

Well at home my wifes car is in the garage. Yesterday I had the truck in the store shop all day. The heat was on and the drive home seemed much easyer on the littel truck when warm.

JK TAS Jerry

Jerry · « **Reply #13 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:42:10 PM »

HI Hiker.

Several of the DIY books sugjested mini trucks. Most have manual trans, small frontel area (wind load, good suspension and rear end to handel the battery load, Batteries not inside pasenger compartment, no breathing hydrogen gas or explosion danger.

My batteries are down under the bed inside the frame rails so the truck is still very usfull for halling stuff and I do alot.

JK TAS Jerry

Jerry · « **Reply #14 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:45:22 PM »

Hi Ed.

I understand how hard it is to get around to all those progects you want to do.

I'm still working on my second dual rotor alt?

Forget the Lotory just send my some time.

JK TAS Jerry

Jerry · « **Reply #15 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:48:37 PM »

Thanks every one on the gear oil question. Good thing I ask befor I broke it again.

I'll study all your sugjestion and make a better chioce then I would have. Thanks again.

JK TAS Jerry

windstuffnow · « **Reply #16 on:** November 23, 2005, 04:00:32 PM »

Amen to that ! Time would be very useful. A warmer shop wouldn't hurt either but I suppose a Lottery win would help in the time department... I'll never win the lottery... can't win unless you play...

.

ghurd · « **Reply #17 on:** November 23, 2005, 06:05:25 PM »

Not sure if you saw it, but a rear window defroster kit on the windshield works wonders.

G-

Devo · « **Reply #18 on:** November 23, 2005, 06:39:04 PM »

Hi Jerry , I work in a printing company. The presses use a ring & pinion style gear to turn the units. We used to run the regular gear oil but because we run wide open all the time we have issues with heat & wear on the ring & pinion gear.

We contacted a synthetic oil company & they recomended a synthetic blend to use

to meet the same standards.

This oil was thinner. The temperatures have went down some in the gear box & the wear is a little less (I believe).

If you want the name & number of the company I can find out for you , they may have a blend to match your standard rearend oil that has less friction giving the same or better protection.

I would recomend doing a search on some automotive boards on synthetic oils used in your application & see what results others have had .

Just some thoughts for you to kick around.

I have an s-10 & have though about the conversion , just not sure on what to use or get for the motor.

Keep up the great posts

Devo

Jerry · « **Reply #19 on:** November 23, 2005, 07:33:14 PM »

Thanks devo.

Yes info on the lub Co. would be great. Thanks.

JK TAS Jerry

halfcrazy · « **Reply #20 on:** November 24, 2005, 05:06:45 AM »

mobil one makes a synthetic gear oil i dont remember the wieghts but we used it in the race car rearend or 4 years with no troubles

richhagen · « **Reply #21 on:** November 24, 2005, 09:02:52 AM »

You should have seen the looks I got when I registered my electric Commuta Van. I had to go back twice to do it because they had to look up how to do it. (They have special plates in Illinois, US for electric cars.) They were friendly enough, and helpful, they just didn't know how to register it as none of them had ever had to register an electric car before there. I noticed I have plate 108, I wonder if that means there are only a few other electrics in the state, it seems like there ought to be a few more. I just use mine for short trips, and don't even take it to my regular work, so it only gets a few hundred miles a year at most. Rich

whatsnext · « **Reply #22 on:** November 24, 2005, 02:37:08 PM »

Jerry, You might want to try one of the synthetics like Gear Saver. It pours like water

but supposedly protects like 80-90w. I use it in my motorcycle tranny and I know race car guys use it in the rear end. I really doubt that the 80-90 stuff is slowing you much. If it was your rear end would bbe warm to the touch after only a few miles.

John...

JW · « **Reply #23 on:** November 24, 2005, 05:19:29 PM »

Hi Jerry,

One trick that might work, is 20wt motor oil with Lucas Oil Stabilizer, if your differential holds 3 quarts gearlube, then you could add 2 1/2 quarts 20wt motor oil and about 1/2 quart lucas oil. Possibly 1 whole quart Lucas oil.

This will meet the lubrication needs of the gearset, with minimal low temp viscosity. I wonder if you could use 20/50wt oil and the lucas aditive, then not have to change the oil seasonally.

Sounds like you burned out a ring gear before, did you check the the wear pattern of the new gearset with white grease and prussion blue ink?

There is also a superior additive that is viscosity neutral, its called molybendeluim disulfide. It appears black in color and is commomly found in liquid form as a thread tapping fluid for austenic stainless steels. Has extreame pressure load capabilites. In some applications(ten inch dia timkin bearings at very high speeds with high loads) I have used a mixture of all three, with really good success. An ounce (fluid), two at the most is good for a about a three quart mixture. Just dont use the moly additive in the crankcase of an engine. and some people are alergic to it.

JW

windstuffnow · « **Reply #24 on:** November 24, 2005, 06:18:06 PM »

Devo, Advanced DC motors are the most popular for the conversions. Typically between 96-144 volts. The higher voltage will increase your range. Canadian EV sells the transmission adaptor kits at a reasonable price. (Also sell a complete conversion kit - bolt it on and go ).

.

Nando · « **Reply #25 on:** November 25, 2005, 09:25:38 AM »

Jerry:

Can you report the peak currents that you have in the inclines or when the setting is at maximum power ?.

Also, the battery voltage at those currents.

Regards

Nando

Jerry · « **Reply #26 on:** November 25, 2005, 09:44:19 AM »

Hi Nando.

I've got the 400 amp analog meter and shunt. Just havn't installed it yet. When I do I'll report back the #s. Kinda busy at the store now though.

JK TAS Jerry

Geek · « **Reply #27 on:** November 28, 2005, 04:52:22 PM »

You could always put a small heater to warm your rear end. (the trucks) I have seen some other guys do with that batt. boxes. i have a 120 volt rabbit and i do notice a bit of loss in the cold but not near as much as your truck.

Geek

Clifford · « **Reply #28 on:** November 28, 2005, 08:35:30 PM »

The US and Europe are different with a few things, and each state is also different.

Ever since the teens and twenties, it has been a great past-time for Americans to modify cars, and the practice is generally well accepted.

I have heard that it is virtually unheard of doing engine swaps in Italy because taxes are based on the car's displacement, and even highway tolls are based on the displacement.... (not sure how a bunch of Fiat 126 engines are finding their way into Fiat 500's).

The pickup in Jerry's photo appears to have Oregon plates:

http://www.dplusv.com/JK001a.jpg

Oregon has one of the cheapest auto registrations in the country ($30 / 2 years, I think). And, there are no required vehicle safety inspections. Portland requires seventy-something and newer cars to pass SMOG tests, but I think that is the only required inspection, and Portland is only in one metro area in the entire state that requires smog tests.

If one based the EV on a 60's or older car, it would never have to be inspected unless there was a Vehicle Identification Number inspection if the vehicle came from out of state, and if the VIN could be inspected without even opening the hood... well, they might not even see that the motor was changed.

Ummm... I did hear that Oregon had higher registration fees for the Prius cars (because they presumably pay less fuel tax)... Don't know if this affects EVs, nor is it clear why the hybrids pay the surcharge and my Fiat which get's nearly the same mileage doesn't.

Devo · « **Reply #29 on:** December 02, 2005, 04:59:23 PM »

Jerry , the fella with the oil is from petro canada in Chatham ontario(Canada)

I have his name & phone # from last week but I just checked my pockets & the top of the dryer-lol, can't find it- I'll find out again tomorrow(sorry)

If you E-mail me at devinh@xcelco.on.ca I will send it back to you a.s.a.p.

Sorry for the wait , busy at work......

thanks for the motor info Ed, I wonder if an old 20 to 60 horse dc motor

that they use to run printing presses would work?

Devo

iamwoodnut · « **Reply #30 on:** December 20, 2005, 02:00:22 PM »

Just wondering if a wind turbine could be used/modified/adapted to run off the front or rear axles for addition power? Could it not supply power to recharge the batteries while driving at lower speeds or power the whole engine at higher speeds? Or is this adding a whole level of complexity that is not needed.

danielbergamini · « **Reply #31 on:** December 20, 2005, 03:08:10 PM »

Just wondering if a wind turbine could be used/modified/adapted to run off the front or rear axles for addition power? Could it not supply power to recharge the batteries while driving at lower speeds or power the whole engine at higher speeds? Or is this adding a whole level of complexity that is not needed.

I can't be sure this is a serious question, but somebody has to say no. You would just be burning up power for no reason, otherwise it would be over-unity. It would effectively be the same as running an electric motor directly connected to a generator. This is done on occasion to change cycles or convert dc-ac or vice versa, but it loses power in the conversion every time.

One concept that is close, but real is regenerative braking, which basically engages the motor as a generator to slow the car down for a stop (or just slow down). A large motor makes a very good brake when you try and get a lot of power out of it.

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Author Topic: E-Car on the road again. (Read 5371 times)