Gould century 2HP 3Phase Induction Conversion

[coldspot]

While going to machine shop today I thought,

Hey, why not take the other two HP 3 phase along for

getting them trimmed down for Magnet placement???

 So while still in the middle of the Baldor unit, I'm also

just as far along or more now with this 3 phaser.

While sitting there waiting for machinist to return from lunch,

I got to playing around with the case and a razor blade.

I figure they say it's across from the out wires,.......

So I dig in and with just a couple of carefuly placed slides of the blade,

I'm looking at what looks to be the "Star" conection, ...

Three wires all into one plug thingy, lol    

Just need to drag it in from truck and check with multimeter.


src="http://www.otherpower.com/images/scimages/4993/Gould_Century_2HP_3Phase.jpg" width=80%>

Rotor Dia. 3.225"

After the lathe work it's easy to see that they do have off-set's on the lam's.

What I'm wondering now is,.

Do I still need to off-set the magnets or will the lam's take care of it??

I quess I'll try to super glue and pop bottle shrink wrap it to test.

fixed your pic

[Flux]

Yes you need to offset the magnets, but the skew on the rotor bars give you a good idea how much.

Cogging will occur with the STATOR lams, what happens on the rotor is of no consequence. That was skewed to prevent harmonic crawl as a motor. It is a similar thing in some respects but you are making the rotating field with your magnets now, not relying on the incoming 3 phase as when it was a motor.

Flux

[coldspot]

Flux-

Thank you!

I'll be picking up some # 262 Loctite today

I have some 15 min epoxy but know that the magnets will try to move before it's hard if not careful! LOL  

Anybody out there know of an easy 7/8" Hub ?





The first pic that didn't show for some reason.

l8r

[coldspot]

Have added the three extra wires to this conversion-

Now just to glue some magnets down and find out were

I saved the info on what to number these three wires as....?

as wired when found-

5. -8 tied
   
7. -4 tied
   
9. -6 tied
   
1. 
   
2. 
   
3. loose,
   
   

 but after star conection was cut

now have

1. -
   
2. -
   
3. -
   
   

extra-A

extra-B

extra-C

5. -8 tied
   
7. -4 tied
   
9. -6 tied
   
   

[zubbly]

hi coldspot,

use a meter to find the circuit between wires as follows.

from#7 to 1 wire from star point=#10

from#8 to 1 wire from star point=#11

from#9 to 1 wire from star point=#12

use this numbering system to select and connect.

zubbly

[coldspot]

THANKS-

"Mr. Zubbly"

I know I have that saved at least 3-6 times

And on a few back-up disc's

But, you was faster than my looking thru the many sub-folders.

lol

Thanks.

As far as "Skewing"

I found out how hard it is to push magnets together while glue dries !!! lol   :|~

Do I have "To Much" skew with this???

I'd like to know if I'm to far and need to start over or just keep glueing?

Word to newbies,

Have help or wire ties ready and not need to go find them!!!!!!

LOL



l8r

[Ungrounded Lightning Rod]

Assuming the slots in the stator aren't skewed, the magnet skew should be half the angular spacing of the stator slots.  If the edge of one magnet is exactly under the center of a slot, the edge of the other magnet should be exactly under the center of the adjacent laminate polepiece.

(And if zubbly says anything different, believe him, not me.  B-)  )

[drdongle]

From what I remember Zubbly says for a 36 pole stator use 10% or one stator tooth width. General rule is one stator tooth what ever kind of stator you use.

[coldspot]

When I finally tried to

put rotor in the can

With the pop bottle wrapped

magnets

NO fit, to tight and now stuck

I'll work on it some more later this week

and hope it'll fit less the bottle wrapper

lol

[TomW]

coldspot;

I recall Zubbly explaining that he uses a come along [hand winch] to pull out the rotor if needed. Anchor the case then winch out the shaft / rotor.

Just an idea. He also drills and taps the end of the shaft for prop securing so it makes it easier to do this. That Zubbly is a sharp cookie and we sure enjoy his daily visits on IRC.

Cheers.

TomW

[dinges]

I think you'll find Zubbly says differently

The first magnet should be over one stator slot, the last magnet should be above the other (or, even more accurately: an imaginary extra magnet should be exactly over the next slot; your real last magnet should be a little bit before that slot):

Don't know where you got the 1/2-factor from. At least, I hope it's YOU that's wrong, not me. Otherwise I've got some new drawings to make...

[dinges]

On 2nd thought... You may be right too. After some pondering the matter, half the offset should be fine too, I think. And one stator slot offset (like Zubbly does, using his string-test and as I will) should be fine too...

Many roads lead to Rome, I guess.

Peter.

[coldspot]

I dought I'll need a winch

But a press might be good, (if I had one, LOL)

I'll just set it up betweeen some blocks and whack it with a 2X4 or something along those lines, lol

 I'll be able to get it out

but now wondering about my machinist guys thoughts on fit.

Ya know those guys think a few thousands is enough

and I asked for about an extra 1/16"

but he just measures it real quick and say's "there's enough there"

If after I get the rotor shaft back out, and remove the shrink wrap bottle

then I'll see what I got for fit.

Hope I don't have to remove the magnets and relathe then reglue them.

:|~

(If I have to take it back to machine shop, a real press lives there, lol)

But might want other

2 HP 3 phase

Re-Lathed

I really don't want a super close fit, some room for air and I'd think

better cooling.

Ease of working on is my main thought anyway

L8r

[coldspot]

Skew-

The one picture dated 2006/05/30

shows the one set with the most off-set

the other three sets ended up with

about a stator tooth width of off-set

Durn, ^#!$&*(^$@

Was looking forward to playing with it

the cogging it had

the OUT-PUT-

Did use all eight of my #29's on it

lol

[coldspot]

Today being a screw around type day. lol

I had a chance to play with this conversion a bit.

Now that the pop bottle wrapper if off, the rotor

does fit. ( I must now take back at least one of the bad things I

said about my machinist friend. LOL )

The air-gap is about impossable to see but I've checked and

nothing is touching.

The skew I used is not quite right but close.

You can't turn it with a thumb n finger but can using a couple of fingers and thumb.

Now that I've seen it fits I'll have to take it back apart and grease the bearing and

stuuf then I'll be able to play with it some more.

Did find a large enough pipe today to fit over my best tower pipes.

Now just to hook-up with someone with a welder and get stuff done.

Still lacking a hub n blades for this one.

7/8" hub ideas out there?