Well, my correspondence with Golden Motors has been less than satisfactory. I really feel I am getting the runaround, I'll let you guys decide here is a copy of my most recent e-mails to them.
Dear Sirs.
I recently purchased a 48v 1000w rear hub motor kit. I have finally gotten it assembled on a recumbent only to find out it does not work.
I get 3 beeps when testing, which indicates a bad throttle. As I had the twist throttle also I substituted it for testing purposes,to the same result. I have also checked out all the components external of the controller and can find no faults.
I also added inline fuses from the battery pack for protection,which is something you should consider adding to the package.
This has led me to the conclusion that I received a faulty controller. I do wish to get this replaced in a timely manner. My question is, how do i get this resolved?
This project was started with the possibility of adding electric recumbents to our line of
products. However until I can verify the quality of what I sell, I will not go forward.
My controller has the numbers MX-48C-EB-D 09030467 on the label.
From: zhourenli@goldenmotor.com
To: xxx@hotmail.com
Subject: goldenmotor
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 10:19:15 +0800
Hello Sir
Before sending,we have test all of your products.
If gets 3 beeps,the problem must from throttle.Maybe there is some problem with the throttle connector from the controller.
The best way to test is cut off the wires (green,black,red--white,blue,red).Make these wires are connected directly,without connector.
Another way is to do as "item 5"
Thanks
Tom
Goldenmotor
Dear Sirs,
I still have the same situation.
I bypassed the plugs from the throttle and cruise control switch and soldered them together. I ge 3 beeps on power up. I tried step 5 and I get no beep. and I also get no power to the hub motor, except a quick "jerk" and that's all, and this is not consistent.
I also checked resistance on all other contacts and found them all good.
The battery pack I am using is fully charged, this is a 48V ni-cad pack and fully charged gives me 51.6 V.
The alarm and anti-theft function , however does work.
Tom: zhourenli@goldenmotor.com
To: xxx@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: faulty controller
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 06:24:35 +0800
Hello sir
If it still has anti-theft function,the controller is okay.
The problem is still from the wires been connected.
Could you take a photo or movie to me?
What the meaning of quick "jerk"?
Is that when you turn your throttle,quick "jerk" from motor?
Regards
Tom
GoldenmotorDear Sir,
The problem is NOT from the wires connected. I have taken a multi-meter and established that there is 0 resistance across every connector to the controller.
I removed and inserted the plugs on the controller several times, inspected them visually and see nothing wrong with those connectors. I tested every switch.
I swapped out the twist throttle to test.
I have checked my voltages to the controller.
The only thing I haven't made sure is good are the throttles themselves. I tried testing them off the bike, with a multimeter to see if i got varied resistance and I get no results on either one. Of course I am not sure what these readings should be.
My results are consistent. I plug in my battery pack, turn on the soft switch I get 3 beeps. Then if I hit the cruse control button, one pulse is sent to the motor, that is all.it will not do this again until it is turned off and back on. If i turn off the soft switch and move the bike then the alarm sounds and the motor "locks up".
I also tried step 5 holding the brake lever while hitting the cruise control button 5 times. It will beep once, and then upon hitting the cruise control button i will get one pulse to the motor.
I get no response whatsoever from either throttle when connected to the controller.
I am no amateur when it comes to electric troubleshooting. I worked several years as an import car technician, and I was relied on to find strange electrical problems.
From: Tom (zhourenli@goldenmotor.com)
Sent: Wed 6/03/09 9:17 PM
To: xxx@hotmail.com)
Hello sir
There is something wrong with your wires.
The thin green wire from the throttle should connect red wire,(+),not black wire(-).
Best Regards
Tom
Goldenmotor
To: tom goldenmotor (zhourenli@goldenmotor.com)
That black wire has a WHITE stripe. it's positive.
From the golden motor forum:
Re: Bad Controller?
« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2009, 09:41:31 PM »
Quote
From: stl_recum
This might help,
With the controller powered up there should be 5 volt dc between the red wire (T1) and the black wire (Z).
The red wire should be positive.
As you turn the twist grip or press the thumb throttle the voltage between the black wire (Z) and the white wire (T2) should increase from zero to about 5 volts with the white wire (T2) being positive. You should be able to read these values at your splice and also at the controller terminals which are a little harder to get to.
If these values are all correct, I would say you have some other problem.
Other people that have had simular but different problems on the formum have missed the connection from the "g" terminal to the positive side of the battery.
good luck
From: Philip Lynott
Hi,
All I can say on the matter is that I found it usefull to use a stick connector to make all the connections, this forces you to use the wiring diagram availible on goldenmotor.com (which is correct), is neater than using the connectors supplied and should help in trouble shooting.
Good luck,
From: ccbreder
There should be a varied resistance across the throttle.
From: Zeusmorg
With the controller powered up I get .86 v across the red and black wires. I wiggled, the connections on the controller, and also pulled it apart and reconnected it. Same results.
I get no reading between the black and white wires on voltage.
Nor do i get a varied resistance reading,ccbreder are you sure the reading ia variable on resistance? I don't believe the throttle is a potentiometer.
Sorry but i have no clue what a stick connector is. I've checked my wiring against the schematics and It is all wired properly. I did add inline fuses for safety.
Hello Sir
Please check your voltage.
When you put throught your battery.
1.The voltage of throttle
red and green wire:4.4V
red and black wire:4.4V
2.The voltage of hall
red and black wire:4.9V
green and black wire:4.9V or 0V(when you turn your wheel,the voltage will change)
yellow and black wire:4.9V or 0V(when you turn your wheel,the voltage will change)
blue and black wire:0V or 4.9V(when you turn your wheel,the voltage will change)
If the voltage is normal,your motor will work.
Best Regards
Tom
Goldenmotor
I really feel I am getting the runaround here.
I have TESTED EVERYTHING. All these tests point to a faulty controller.
If you had read my e-mails, you would see the results.
My shipping address is:
xxx-xxx
xxx
I expect a replacement throttle to be shipped out in the next 24 hours.
If these conditions are not met. I will begin posting all this correspondence in the various forums that I am a member of.
These would include most of the bicycle forums that are on the internet.
It would also include most of the EV forums on the internet.
It also includes several Renewable energy forums that are on the internet.
So now my question to you is, Is continuing this runaround really worth all the bad press that will be generated?
Up to this point, I feel i have been extremely patient in attempting to get this resolved, however that patience is at an end.
So do you really wish to loose me as a customer over the $74 cost of a controller?
Do you really wish to loose the potential customers that will search the various forums looking for which system to buy?
This will also be posted to your own forum now.
So I personally feel I have given them the benifit of the doubt at this point.
They should've given me ALL the testing parameters in the first e-mail.
If that had been done, and if they had EVER given me a shipping address to return this controller, It would be there, and my new one would already be on the way.
