Author Topic: Wind (Read 2193 times)

bj · « **on:** August 04, 2009, 01:55:33 PM »

I suspect a lot of people have figured this one out, but it worked so

well that I thought I would pass it on anyway. IF this works, there is

picture, but to word it, I tacked the spindle/hub on the welding table,

then mounted the rotor blank on it. I had already drilled the centre hole, and stud holes. I then gently clamped the cutting torch in the vice

beside the rotor blank. The picture, unfortunatly was made after all was

done, just to illustrate.

hope this works

bj

DanB · « **Reply #1 on:** August 04, 2009, 08:34:51 AM »

yes, this is a good way to do it, we've done this at workshops before. At the most recent workshop there was too much discussion (plenty of cooks in the pot) about the best way to cut magnet rotors, we wound up making a sort of compass. I prefer your way though.

gotwind2 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 04, 2009, 09:53:13 AM »

I like that idea BJ.

Good for us folk without lathes, thanks for sharing.

Ben.

Flux · « **Reply #3 on:** August 04, 2009, 02:14:24 PM »

Yes it is very sensible. The normal contraptions mounted to a torch for cutting circles where you rotate the torch about a centre mark( the compass thing that Dan refers to) works but it is difficult to use and you have trouble moving the torch at constant speed.

If you clamp the torch and rotate the blank you can turn it at very constant speed and achieve a cut as good as a proper profile cutter. Well worth he few minutes it takes to mount the hub on a spindle.

Flux

bj · « **Reply #4 on:** August 04, 2009, 08:56:46 PM »

Glad it might help someone. I tend to look for ways that don't depend

on old and sometimes shakey hands. I forgot to mention, and it almost shows in the pic, I drilled a 1/16 hole on the edge of the cut, to make

starting the cut easier, with no blowback.

bj

Flux · « **Reply #5 on:** August 05, 2009, 01:17:48 AM »

Yes the starting hole is a wise idea. I hate burning in at any time and often drill a hole to avoid the splash clogging the nozzle even where the crater doesn't really matter.

Flux

Tritium · « **Reply #6 on:** August 05, 2009, 11:49:33 AM »

If only printable templates of the various hub configurations were available.

Thurmond

Flux · « **Reply #7 on:** August 05, 2009, 12:24:11 PM »

Probably the number of hub possibilities is quite limited in each country so someone may be prepared to draw them for people to print.

I can't help as I find it infinitely quicker to fabricate and machine my own hubs rather than scrounge or buy some commercial thing and adapt it.

I think most of these commercial hubs are trailer hubs and you may be able to get enough information from the makers to produce a template. As long as your printer prints true size it should work fine.

Flux

bj · « **Reply #8 on:** August 06, 2009, 06:55:51 AM »

Thurmond, and Flux--Some of the aftermarket wheel manufacturers used to

give away plastic templates with all the common bolt patterns on it. Just slide over the studs/bolts and the info is there. I think I still have one somewhere, I see if I can find it, to find out who made it. Being

clear plastic with stamped writing on it, it should also be copy-able.

bj

Ungrounded Lightning Rod · « **Reply #9 on:** August 06, 2009, 08:44:56 PM »

And scan-and-uploadable.

dnix71 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 07, 2009, 07:59:58 PM »

You can buy a set of 4 here for $16.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MFY-8021200/?image=large

dnix71 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 07, 2009, 08:16:38 PM »

Northern Tools has a downloadable pdf here:

http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/bolt_circle_template.pdf

The pic below is not to scale, but the pdf prints fine on my laser printer.

taylorp035 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 09, 2009, 07:20:43 PM »

I was thinking a plasma cutter would work even better, but not too many people have these. I think they will cut through 8" of steel with no problems. A torch may have a pretty rough edge when you are done.

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