Author Topic: How we make the stator  (Read 8805 times)

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DanB

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How we make the stator
« on: February 22, 2006, 07:25:21 PM »


This is a long  page with lots of pictures and probably way too much detail, and theres some thats not finished yet (as of noon, Wed Feb 22.  Itll probably be more complete tomorrow or Friday (after I open the mold), but most of the important stuff is there.


Here's the link to stator details: http://www.otherpower.com/stator.html


stator mold: href="http://www.otherpower.com/statormold.html">http://www.otherpower.com/statormold.html


coil winder (again - unfinished, some drawings are not there): http://www.otherpower.com/coilwinder2.html


and magnet rotors: http://www.otherpower.com/magnetrotors.html

« Last Edit: February 22, 2006, 07:25:21 PM by (unknown) »
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Ding123

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2006, 01:55:06 PM »
Thanks alot,  Dan B. Your post is great!!!! I was always curious how you wound your coils. You make everything look very understandable, as a matter of fact, your comments are so good, that the little woman found 3 things wrong with mine. I had all my wires on the stator on the outside, and I don't think that really makes a difference, but, as she is a shareholder in this project, now

I'll do anything to keep peace. She even wants me to colour the fiberglass...God knows what colour! I hope it is not pink!

Are you going to go so far as to get around to the rectifiers and diodes? If you do find time to ," hotwire" and I  would be gratefull!

you're the man.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2006, 01:55:06 PM by Ding123 »

DanB

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2006, 02:01:05 PM »
If you do color the stator, I would consider a 'light' color.  We almost always pick yellow...

black would get quite hot in the sun.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2006, 02:01:05 PM by DanB »
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kurt

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2006, 05:25:58 PM »
one thing i noticed on the magnet rotors page is that it is not really clear if the mold is supposed to be 1/2" or 1" deep. that part could be allot more clear.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2006, 05:25:58 PM by kurt »

willib

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2006, 06:04:07 PM »
It is allways a pleasure reading your posts , Ding123
« Last Edit: February 22, 2006, 06:04:07 PM by willib »
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Ungrounded Lightning Rod

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2006, 08:46:48 PM »
Those coils look like the hole is too small and/or the coils are too fat.  (I'd expect the hole and the combined width of the pair of half-coils between two holes to be about equal.)


How big are the magnets and what is the space between them?

« Last Edit: February 22, 2006, 08:46:48 PM by Ungrounded Lightning Rod »

DanB

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2006, 06:18:54 AM »
The magnets for this one are wedge shaped such that 24 make a ring 8" ID and 12" OD - so the spaces between the magnets are exactly the size of the magnets themselves in this setup.


I tend to think we gain by having the holes a 'bit' too small and I think the width of the legs again - some of the windings are not ideal but they help none the less (I think...).  Ive tested this stuff in the past - perhaps I should test things again with different magnet rotor spacing.  

« Last Edit: February 23, 2006, 06:18:54 AM by DanB »
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BigBreaker

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2006, 08:30:17 AM »
This came up in another discussion, the question of coil geometry vs the magnets.  The issue here is maximizing the change in flux of the magnets sweeping across the coils.  Faraday's law says all that needs to be said there.


If the coils are much bigger than the magnets than there is a "dead spot" as the magnets are just underneath the coils.  This happens because the magnets are moving but the flux through the coil isn't changing, because all the flux is still captured across that rotation segment.


Real coils will always experience some sort of dead spot because they will always have some width.  Either the inside will be too small and will have a rotation segment where both legs will be inside the magnet's face or the outside is too big and both legs will be outside the face of the magnet.


I think the "rule of thumb" for making the inside of the coil the same size as the magnet's face is good idea for a couple of reasons.  Firstly - as long as you have to have a dead spot it might as well grab all the flux it can outside that spot.  Small inner coils would not experience the magnet's full flux.  Secondly the air gap is going to cause some spreading of the flux as it exits the magnet face.  Effectively the coil is seeing a slightly larger magnet.  The only offset to that rule is the increased resistance from a longer coil and the growing dead spot as you wind the coils ever "fatter".


It would be interesting to wind a coil with taps that allow you to sense the voltage contributions from each stage of coils from the inside to the outside.  You could then make some more scientific judgements about optimum coil geometry.


I have been thinking about the coil layering techique - its still a three (six) phase machine but the coils are narrower and more numerous.  The stator is almost solid copper and the edges have to bulge out over the rotors to handle the coil turns and get around each other.  Harder to make but interesting for a electronics guy like me.  Lots of ways to tap a stator like that.

« Last Edit: February 23, 2006, 08:30:17 AM by BigBreaker »

Tom in NH

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2006, 07:18:32 PM »
Thanks for your wonderful informative tutorials, Dan. I just got my six pound spool from Forcefield and cast my first stator a few days ago without benefit of your photos and tips. I made a similar coil winder, but it is just a handheld thing and you wrap the wire around it. It worked well. Where I had problems was in pouring the resin, mainly because I never did it before. I mixed it up in tiny quantities and found it was setting up before I had a chance to fill the mold. Next time I will mix it as you did, a pint at a time. I also had problems with the coils not laying flat in the mold so my stator is a little "lumpy." I don't think this will really cause a problem, but the stator is a little thicker than it would have been otherwise. Next time I'll weight the coils down and pour a pint of resin at a time and I think it will go better. I have a feeling there will be several "next times." --tom
« Last Edit: February 23, 2006, 07:18:32 PM by Tom in NH »

Ungrounded Lightning Rod

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #9 on: February 23, 2006, 08:26:21 PM »
Consider a magnet passing under a coil side - in a situation where the coil side is narrower than the magnet and the "hole" is wider (so you don't get any other effects confusing the issue).  Assume no field spreading for now, too.


The following things happen:

 - As the magnet approaches the coil side but isn't yet putting a significant field through it, the coil side generates no voltage.  (We'll ignore field spreading for now.)

 - As the magnet starts crossing the coil side covering progressively more of it, the voltage it induces ramps up from zero.

 - Once the entire coil side is covered by magnet, the voltage induced holds at a constant value until the other side of the magnet reaches the coil side.

 - As the magnet leaves the coil side, the induced volatage ramps back down to zero.  So far the induced voltage waveform is a trapezoid.

 - Now the magnet crosses the gap and the voltage stays zero.

 - Next it approaches, crosses, and leaves the other coil side, producing an inverted version of the same trapezoid waveform.


Reducing the size of the hole by squeezing the coil together "slides" the second trapezoid toward the first one, until they touch.  At that point the trailing down ramp of the first trapezoid joins the leading down ramp of the second one, and the "dead time" is reduced to zero.  Squeezing further is counter-productive, because the voltage produced is the SUM of the voltages from the two sides.  As the trapezoids start overlapping their contributions cancel.  The result is that the ramp down is STILL a straight line but the trapezoids get narrower, corresponding to less generation.


Reducing the size of the hole by winding more coil there increases the amount of time the magnet is moving onto a coil side.  This leaves the slope of the edges of the trapezoid the same but lengthens them.  The trapezoids becomes taller, narrower at the top (bottom in the inverted case), and wider at the base.  Voltage goes up, but resistance goes up too.  (The current delivered to the batteries goes up because the batteries are charged at a non-zero voltage.)  But once you've wound the hole down to the width of the magnet - so the two trapezoids touch - the situation changes.  Now adding more wire gives you no added power, because the magnet impinges on the far side of the coil and starts canceling out the voltage induced in the near side.  Your extra turns beyond this point produce NO additional power.  (While the trapezoids continue to rise they also narrow in proportion, becoming triangles when the width of a coil side is the width of the magnet and the hole is filled.)  But it DOES produce added resistance, reducing your charging current for a given voltage, and increasing your heating for a given current.


So any wire wound within the footprint of the magnet when it's centered on the coil is not just wasted copper, but actually hurts your output.


The effect of field spreading is to widen the pole and make its edges "fuzzy".  This bends the trapezoids' sides into S curves, so the waveform more closely approximates a sine wave.  It also means your hole should actually be very slightly wider than the magnet for optimum performance.  (But with opposing pole pieces and a small gap this effect isn't pronounced enough to make it worth trying to compensate for it.  Just make the hole the size of the magnet and you won't be wasting very much copper and power.)


Of course the opposite pole is doing the same thing on the other side of the coil.


You might think that because the coil sides only go halfway across the space between the coil holes (in a polyphase machine) it would complicate this analysis, because the situation with the two pole pieces and two coil sides is not symmetrical.  (In a single-phase machine they ARE symmetrical.)  In fact, in a Y/Star connection the two coils end up in series in such a way that it might as well be a single coil the full width of the inter-hole gap, rather than two separate coils.  (A similar situation exists with delta, but it's more difficult to describe the way the coils interact.)

« Last Edit: February 23, 2006, 08:26:21 PM by Ungrounded Lightning Rod »

DanB

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2006, 08:11:44 AM »
Thankyou for pointing that our Kurt...  supposed to be 3/4" deep and yes - it was totally unclear!
« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 08:11:44 AM by DanB »
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finnsawyer

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2006, 09:03:14 AM »
If the center diameter of the coil is greater than the magnet's diameter there will be a short time when the flux through the coil does not change as it passes over the magnet.  The induced voltage will drop to zero for this period of time.  As the coil encounters the flux from the pole (say a north pole) when it starts moving over the magnet, the rate of change of flux is positive (the flux is increasing with time).  This is followed briefly by a zero voltage.  Then, as the coil moves off the magnet the flux decreases with time giving a negative voltage.  Rather than getting a trapezoidal waveform you would get two pulses closely spaced in time, one of positive voltage and the other negative.  If the coil diameter is equal to that of the magnet,  the two pulses move together giving the ideal case of a waveform passing through zero.  The maximum for the induced voltage will occur when the coil is spaced equally between a south pole and a north pole in a good design.


I suggest you take a look at the following post:

     http://Beyond Jerry Rigging (Some Alternator Design Considerations)

« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 09:03:14 AM by finnsawyer »

finnsawyer

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #12 on: February 24, 2006, 09:05:01 AM »
Damn, I can never get the links to work.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 09:05:01 AM by finnsawyer »

ghurd

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2006, 09:14:26 AM »
Links.  

I open the page in a new window (yea, windows).

Right click the address, copy, then paste it into the reply.

I think all my links work. They do on this end.

G-
« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 09:14:26 AM by ghurd »
www.ghurd.info<<<-----Information on my Controller

finnsawyer

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2006, 09:43:22 AM »
Hm, right click?  Maybe that's the key.  I was using the left button.  I'll keep it in mind.  Let's try it.


          http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2006/2/15/162956/726  


Looks like that's it.  Thanks

« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 09:43:22 AM by finnsawyer »

DanB

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2006, 09:48:18 AM »
Hi Ungrounded - I should do some tests.  What's 'ideal' here really depends on how the magnets are spaced apart.  That's at least as important as the size of the magnet itself.  There are times when its benificial to build a smaller machine - and crowd the  magnets and I would argue that in those cases it's benificial to wind the inside of the coil small.  I did lots of tests like this a couple years ago but the magnet rotors I used are different that what I normally do.


One recent test is interesting though if you recall a couple of mondays ago when we were playing with Richs machine, which has 12 2" diameter magnets around the magnet rotor.  We used the same coil winder (same shape coils) that I normally use for 1" x 2" magnets (and the hole is ever so slightly smaller than 1" x 2" - its 1" at the top, 2" long, and 3/4" on the bottom to give a slight wedge shape).  In that arrangement, if I made the holes in teh coils the size of the 2" disks I'd have about 1/2" of space for the coil legs which I don't believe would allow for enough wire - and...  we'd have about half the wire in teh coil 'wasted' (parallel to, not perpendicular)on top and below the path of the magnets.  


In that test we tried the same stator with two rotors (one rotor had 1" x 2" blocks and the coils were 'close' to what most folks would consider proper if not a bit wide in the legs).  We measured DC Volts (after the rectifiers) and rpm.


With the 1" x 2" magnets we got 12VDC @ 284 rpm.

with the 2" dia round magnets we got 12VDC @ 196 rpm.


We used the same coils so resistance is the same in both tests.  The 2" dia magnets are about 50% bigger in surface area and they got us nearly 50% lower cutin speed even though the coils were much too small in the middle.  Obviously - the windings that were 'smaller' than the magnet were doing us lots of good here.


I expect I could've gone to somewhat larger rotors, used the same magnets - wound perfect 'textbook' coils and perhaps gained a bit more power at the cost of more copper/resin/ and steel.


This is the most relevant test I've done recently on this issue - I'll do more of this stuff soon.


Ill comment on some of your text now...


"Reducing the size of the hole by winding more coil there increases the amount of time the magnet is moving onto a coil side.  This leaves the slope of the edges of the trapezoid the same but lengthens them."


Yes... for a higher peak voltage I expect.


  "The trapezoids becomes taller, narrower at the top (bottom in the inverted case), and wider at the base.  Voltage goes up, but resistance goes up too.  (The current delivered to the batteries goes up because the batteries are charged at a non-zero voltage.)"


Yes - that makes sense.


  "But once you've wound the hole down to the width of the magnet - so the two trapezoids touch - the situation changes.  Now adding more wire gives you no added power, because the magnet impinges on the far side of the coil and starts canceling out the voltage induced in the near side.  Your extra turns beyond this point produce NO additional power. "


Nice explanation...  it makes perfect sense but it doesn't seem to actually work out that way for me.


 "(While the trapezoids continue to rise they also narrow in proportion, becoming triangles when the width of a coil side is the width of the magnet and the hole is filled.)  But it DOES produce added resistance, reducing your charging current for a given voltage, and increasing your heating for a given current."


Yes  - I could see that if what you say is true here.  I don't think it actually works out that way though.  It makes me think of old single phase machines I made a few years ago like this (kind of an extreme case):  




In that case..  there's no way that I could've made the hole the size of the magnet and it actually worked pretty well considering.  I did lots of testing for coil shape on that one.


"So any wire wound within the footprint of the magnet when it's centered on the coil is not just wasted copper, but actually hurts your output."


I think it hurst output like you said - when the magnet is centered on the coil.  At other times though it can be benificial.  I think the ideal hole in the coil, and overall coil size is a compromise between teh size/shape of the magnet - and the spacing of the magnets.  My 17' machine is another case where magnets are crowded pretty close, the coil holes need to be smaller than the magnets in order to have any room for wire.  In that case the holes look more like the gaps between the magnets than they look like the magnets themselves.  Peak voltage happens when an opposite pole is over each leg of a coil so to me it makes sense to keep the space between the poles in mind.


"The effect of field spreading is to widen the pole and make its edges "fuzzy".  This bends the trapezoids' sides into S curves, so the waveform more closely approximates a sine wave.  It also means your hole should actually be very slightly wider than the magnet for optimum performance. "


If I had to make them slightly bigger...  there'd be no room at all for copper in lots of my machines! ;~)


 (But with opposing pole pieces and a small gap this effect isn't pronounced enough to make it worth trying to compensate for it.  Just make the hole the size of the magnet and you won't be wasting very much copper and power.)


I'm very much a trial and error sort of person I guess...  I'll do some more tests on this though - it'd be fun.  What I've done so far though seems to suggest that windings smaller than the magnet can contribute.

« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 09:48:18 AM by DanB »
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BigBreaker

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2006, 11:49:29 AM »
That dip in the middle is exactly what I was concerned about.  If the gen is lightly loaded the inductance of the coil will hold the voltage up.  If that energy gets sucked out of the coil to drive a load than the voltage will sag in the middle.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 11:49:29 AM by BigBreaker »

Ungrounded Lightning Rod

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2006, 07:46:29 PM »
I'll try to respond to this in more detail later.


My long posting above relates to straight sided magnets - in particular a set of wedge shaped magnets with the edges radial, but also to rectangular magnets, which are a close approximations to wedges.


Circular magnets are a whole different can of worms and my posting above doesn't apply to them.


(In particluar the gap between the magnets works well when it's much smaller, or even vanishing, making the induced voltage in rectangular/wedge shaped coils a much closer approximation to a sine wave.  The voltage will continue to go up, though more slowly, as you close the hole - though there will still be a point where the added resistance from adding more turns in the hole eats more than the extra turns produce, so you should stop filling in.)

« Last Edit: February 24, 2006, 07:46:29 PM by Ungrounded Lightning Rod »

finnsawyer

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #18 on: February 25, 2006, 09:22:19 AM »
Actually inductance acts to keep current up, not voltage.  The voltage across an inductor can have any value that can change instantaneously.  Current can not change instantaneously.  With no current flow or little current flow the wave form will be like the one I mentioned.  There is not a dip in the middle but rather a transition region between a positive pulse and a negative pulse.  The trapezoid that you described is actually an idealized description of the flux through the coil.  According to Faraday's law you need the time rate of change of this flux to get the voltage.  When the flux is rising this gives a positive rectangular shaped pulse of voltage followed by a brief period of no voltage coinciding with the top of the trapezoid, and then a negative rectangular shaped pulse of voltage equal in magnitude to the positive pulse and of the same duration.  Of course, in reality the pulses will be rounded, and ideally we would like the overall wave form to be close to a sine wave, although, as I pointed out in the posting I mentioned, there really is no fundamental reason why one couldn't design for a series of positive and negative pulses.  The diodes don't care.  They will rectify pulses as well as sine waves.  The real issue becomes the magnitude and duration of the pulses.  Large diameter, but thin coils, moving quickly across the magnets might give satisfactory results.  


The voltage generated internally by the alternator is independent of the inductance of the coils.  The current that flows out of the alternator and hence the load voltage may depend on the coil inductances as well their resistance.  The open circuit voltage that we can measure will be this independent voltage.  We can also hang different loads across the alternator outputs to determine the behavior of the alternator for all operating conditions of interest, and from that data determine an electrical model for the alternator.  Such a model would involve inductors and resistors.  From that one can predict how the alternator will perform for various conditions.  Obviously this would not be an easy undertaking.

« Last Edit: February 25, 2006, 09:22:19 AM by finnsawyer »

willib

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #19 on: February 25, 2006, 09:31:43 AM »
Dan if you still have that rotor , i'd be willing to purchase it from you , i would pry those babies off the rotor , and try to use them in a slightly different configuration :)
« Last Edit: February 25, 2006, 09:31:43 AM by willib »
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DanB

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Re: How we make the stator
« Reply #20 on: February 25, 2006, 12:11:42 PM »
shoot me an email willib - I think I can dig it up.  You can have it for the price of shipping!
« Last Edit: February 25, 2006, 12:11:42 PM by DanB »
If I ever figure out what's in the box then maybe I can think outside of it.