Yes the internal resistance of the F&P is a problem, but we need to remember it wasn't designed as a alternator, its a washing machine motor. The simplest way to use the F&P is to re-configure the stator windings as shown on mine and other web sites. Its not the most efficient set up, and there are problems with reactance limiting and run-away at high RPM. But, the F&P is tough, and cheap, so its a good basis for a basic wind turbine.
But there is much more power to be had from a F&P. In a ideal setup you would run the F&P unaltered, and use a smart buck converter to give the best power transfer. In this situation you could expect over 80 or even 90% efficiency over the rpm range from 50 to 500 rpm and expect several hundred watts. But at this time, that I know of, there hasn't been any shared information that could be replicated and cost effective for your average builder. One problem with this approach is as mentioned, the F&P can generate some seriously dangerous voltages in standard trim. Building a buck converter to run at 500 or more volts is not easy to do unless you have the know-how. But there are advantages too, like transmission losses, you could use standard cheap 10 amp 3 core wire for your cable run. And even thought the F&P is pretty indestructable anyway, it would be easy and cheap to swap out a damaged alternator if left in standard form.
Its also worth looking at work done in using capacitors with the F&P. There are two ways caps can help, as series caps to improve the maximum power, and as voltage multipliers, where gains in low wind power are made. These low wind gains are important, its where most of your watt/hours are made for a typical average wind site. The series cap arrangement worked best with a 100 series 42pole stator on a 24v battery, giving over 500 watts.
Glenn
